review: eclipse…

Eleven Madison Park Last time, the earth stood still. This time, my meal at Eleven Madison Park was a total eclipse. Neither the sun nor moon disappeared. But, for the five blissful hours that my hosts and I dined, it seemed as if the whole world’s attention had been diverted to our table. Eleven Madison […]

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review: eclipse…

Eleven Madison Park Last time, the earth stood still. This time, my meal at Eleven Madison Park was a total eclipse. Neither the sun nor moon disappeared. But, for the five blissful hours that my hosts and I dined, it seemed as if the whole world’s attention had been diverted to our table. Eleven Madison […]

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travel: a spandex week…

A Spandex Week It all began two minutes off the jetway at LaGuardia on the way to baggage claim. A text message popped up: “Where R U? Shke Shck ice crm of day = cffee + dnuts.” Me: “B rght there!” And thus kicked off what would become my most gluttonous run at New York […]

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travel: a spandex week…

A Spandex Week It all began two minutes off the jetway at LaGuardia on the way to baggage claim. A text message popped up: “Where R U? Shke Shck ice crm of day = cffee + dnuts.” Me: “B rght there!” And thus kicked off what would become my most gluttonous run at New York […]

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review: of the place…

Canapes, Del Posto I was assured that Mark Ladner, Executive Chef of Del Posto, was cooking for us when the server came to our table to apologize that he had no clue what the chef was preparing. Apparently, Ladner had remained “tight-lipped” about our dinner. The courses would be revealed to our servers as the […]

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review: of the place…

Canapes, Del Posto I was assured that Mark Ladner, Executive Chef of Del Posto, was cooking for us when the server came to our table to apologize that he had no clue what the chef was preparing. Apparently, Ladner had remained “tight-lipped” about our dinner. The courses would be revealed to our servers as the […]

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review: reprioritizing life…

Sea Urchin-Caviar, Le Bernardin Le Bernardin, a friend and I concluded, is one of those restaurants that, despite it’s acclaim and fame, one doesn’t necessarily crave or clamour for. It’s one of those restaurants that, when you are there, you wonder why you haven’t thought of it more fondly, and more often. A meal at […]

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review: reprioritizing life…

Sea Urchin-Caviar, Le Bernardin Le Bernardin, a friend and I concluded, is one of those restaurants that, despite it’s acclaim and fame, one doesn’t necessarily crave or clamour for. It’s one of those restaurants that, when you are there, you wonder why you haven’t thought of it more fondly, and more often. A meal at […]

Continue

review: bait and tackle…

Antipasto: “Porri Selvatici” “There are no baby eels,” our server solemnly announced. I was crestfallen. But, only for a second. Good, that meant that I could order the “Fegatini di Pescatrice,” monkfish liver, as an antipasto. Or, did I want the “Fritti” – crispy halibut cheek? But it’s ramp season, and there was an entire […]

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review: bait and tackle…

Antipasto: “Porri Selvatici” “There are no baby eels,” our server solemnly announced. I was crestfallen. But, only for a second. Good, that meant that I could order the “Fegatini di Pescatrice,” monkfish liver, as an antipasto. Or, did I want the “Fritti” – crispy halibut cheek? But it’s ramp season, and there was an entire […]

Continue

review: a yawn revisited…

“Les Herbes” Last March, I heeled up to the counter at “McRobuchon” at The Four Seasons in New York and had myself one expensive yawn. At least, that’s how I characterized it in a blog post. But, that was a sensationalistically broad-stroked summary. If you read that post, you’ll see that L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon […]

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review: a yawn revisited…

“Les Herbes” Last March, I heeled up to the counter at “McRobuchon” at The Four Seasons in New York and had myself one expensive yawn. At least, that’s how I characterized it in a blog post. But, that was a sensationalistically broad-stroked summary. If you read that post, you’ll see that L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon […]

Continue

review: verdantly criminal…

Green Pea Soup I’m filing a complaint. Chef Colby Garrelts of bluestem is abusing his diners. Witness: I was enjoying a magnificent spring pea soup (a little too much), poured around an airy quenelle of crème fraîche tableside at bluestem recently when my spoon hit bottom. I reached for the straw…. THERE’S NO STRAW!! What […]

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review: verdantly criminal…

Green Pea Soup I’m filing a complaint. Chef Colby Garrelts of bluestem is abusing his diners. Witness: I was enjoying a magnificent spring pea soup (a little too much), poured around an airy quenelle of crème fraîche tableside at bluestem recently when my spoon hit bottom. I reached for the straw…. THERE’S NO STRAW!! What […]

Continue

review: as good as it gets…

Jean Georges My fingers weren’t nimble enough. Failing reservations at momofuku ko, I was forced to fall back on my Plan B. Thank goodness I had a Plan B. Given all the trials and tribulations that Jean Georges seems to have undergone according to the various online food fora in the past half year, I […]

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review: as good as it gets…

Jean Georges My fingers weren’t nimble enough. Failing reservations at momofuku ko, I was forced to fall back on my Plan B. Thank goodness I had a Plan B. Given all the trials and tribulations that Jean Georges seems to have undergone according to the various online food fora in the past half year, I […]

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review: collective swoon…

Over the past couple of years, I’ve witnessed married women, single women, young girls, gay men, grandmothers, and pets *swoon* at the sight, mention, thought, hint of Johnny Iuzzini. And, it’s usually accompanied by one collective and synchronized *eye roll* from husbands, boyfriends, and granddads (and me) nearby. Johnny Iuzzini Photos courtesy of Johnny Iuzzini […]

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review: collective swoon…

Over the past couple of years, I’ve witnessed married women, single women, young girls, gay men, grandmothers, and pets *swoon* at the sight, mention, thought, hint of Johnny Iuzzini. And, it’s usually accompanied by one collective and synchronized *eye roll* from husbands, boyfriends, and granddads (and me) nearby. Johnny Iuzzini Photos courtesy of Johnny Iuzzini […]

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review: the beautiful life…

Coppa-Crusted Rabbit Loin La Belle Vie I first enjoyed Chef Tim McKee’s cooking at Solera in Minneapolis in late 2004. I remember being astounded by his finessed flavors and innovative twists on Spanish tapas. I kept the menu from that meal and I recently dug it out to see what I had eaten. Even now, […]

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review: the beautiful life…

Coppa-Crusted Rabbit Loin La Belle Vie I first enjoyed Chef Tim McKee’s cooking at Solera in Minneapolis in late 2004. I remember being astounded by his finessed flavors and innovative twists on Spanish tapas. I kept the menu from that meal and I recently dug it out to see what I had eaten. Even now, […]

Continue