Category: dessert

review: into thin air…

Food isn’t the only reason we eat out. Sometimes, we simply want an experience that takes our breath away, a shallow thrill that can match our joy, mask our sorrow. On those occasions, logic and reason rarely have a voice. Gripped by such an moment, I recently found myself wantonly throwing fistfuls of money off […]

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review: into thin air…

Food isn’t the only reason we eat out. Sometimes, we simply want an experience that takes our breath away, a shallow thrill that can match our joy, mask our sorrow. On those occasions, logic and reason rarely have a voice. Gripped by such an moment, I recently found myself wantonly throwing fistfuls of money off […]

Continue

review: weinstube…

My friend Niles is such a ham. Last week, as our group paused to survey our dinner table, astonished by the amount of pork we collectively ordered, Niles alone shrugged. “I’m still plumping,” she clipped wryly, and dove right in. In that moment, Niles framed me perfectly as I arrived in Alsace on a train […]

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review: weinstube…

My friend Niles is such a ham. Last week, as our group paused to survey our dinner table, astonished by the amount of pork we collectively ordered, Niles alone shrugged. “I’m still plumping,” she clipped wryly, and dove right in. In that moment, Niles framed me perfectly as I arrived in Alsace on a train […]

Continue

review: tail of a feast…

Regretfully, I never wrote about my first meal at St. John Bread & Wine near Spitalfields, sibling to Fergus Henderson’s more-famous St. John at Smithfields.* Some say that, between the two restaurants, the food at St. John Bread & Wine is better, or at least more consistent.  I haven’t the wherewithal to make that  judgment. […]

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review: tail of a feast…

Regretfully, I never wrote about my first meal at St. John Bread & Wine near Spitalfields, sibling to Fergus Henderson’s more-famous St. John at Smithfields.* Some say that, between the two restaurants, the food at St. John Bread & Wine is better, or at least more consistent.  I haven’t the wherewithal to make that  judgment. […]

Continue

review: reprise…

In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.*  There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]

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review: reprise…

In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.*  There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]

Continue

le squer at sirha…

“So, you will come to my presentation with Le Squer in Lyon.”  It was more of a decision, less a question. Bruno Verjus, arguably, knows more about food than any other person I know.  The bonus is that he’s incredibly passionate about his affections, humble in his station as one of the most well-connected food […]

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le squer at sirha…

“So, you will come to my presentation with Le Squer in Lyon.”  It was more of a decision, less a question. Bruno Verjus, arguably, knows more about food than any other person I know.  The bonus is that he’s incredibly passionate about his affections, humble in his station as one of the most well-connected food […]

Continue

review: return to salt marsh umami…

In those moments when we’re able to escape the undercurrent that sweeps us along blindly, we surface to discover the world, steady and still, peaceful and patient. There, we find a tavern, just this side of the sea wall, beyond which a windswept shelf of shells slides into the sea. This is the coast of […]

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review: return to salt marsh umami…

In those moments when we’re able to escape the undercurrent that sweeps us along blindly, we surface to discover the world, steady and still, peaceful and patient. There, we find a tavern, just this side of the sea wall, beyond which a windswept shelf of shells slides into the sea. This is the coast of […]

Continue

review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

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review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

Continue

photo of the week 28: nobody knows the truffles i’ve seen…

My friends never cease to amaze me with their generosity. Last week, I had dinner with one who was in Kansas City for the holidays.  We hadn’t seen each other for months. Unexpectedly, he pulled out a Christmas gift, a glass jar of arborio rice stuffed to the brim with a wad of paper towels. […]

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photo of the week 28: nobody knows the truffles i’ve seen…

My friends never cease to amaze me with their generosity. Last week, I had dinner with one who was in Kansas City for the holidays.  We hadn’t seen each other for months. Unexpectedly, he pulled out a Christmas gift, a glass jar of arborio rice stuffed to the brim with a wad of paper towels. […]

Continue

best dishes of 2010…

It’s that time of year again when I shock myself into making new year resolutions by taking a look back at all of the food I ate in the last twelve months. Over the past few weeks, I’ve revisited hundreds of dishes and, through some mysterious and highly subjective process that involves memory and mood, […]

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best dishes of 2010…

It’s that time of year again when I shock myself into making new year resolutions by taking a look back at all of the food I ate in the last twelve months. Over the past few weeks, I’ve revisited hundreds of dishes and, through some mysterious and highly subjective process that involves memory and mood, […]

Continue

review: zeitgeist…

Once derided for their culinary ineptitude, the British have invaded us all over again with a new Fab Four: nose, tail, trotter, and jowl (and everything in between). Indeed, the pig has become a modern-day proxy for a larger umbrella of thematic eating, under which fall beer and tattooes, mustaches and suspenders, piles of meat […]

Continue

review: zeitgeist…

Once derided for their culinary ineptitude, the British have invaded us all over again with a new Fab Four: nose, tail, trotter, and jowl (and everything in between). Indeed, the pig has become a modern-day proxy for a larger umbrella of thematic eating, under which fall beer and tattooes, mustaches and suspenders, piles of meat […]

Continue