Category: dessert

review: pioneer… (notion)

You know what I like about Dave Racicot? He’s passionate. He’s generous. He’s fearless. And, he’s just a bit crazy. There’s little glory, if any, in slim margins, empty seats, and twenty-hour days. But chefs across the world run the restaurant gauntlet again and again. Why? They love to cook. They were made to cook. […]

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review: pioneer… (notion)

You know what I like about Dave Racicot? He’s passionate. He’s generous. He’s fearless. And, he’s just a bit crazy. There’s little glory, if any, in slim margins, empty seats, and twenty-hour days. But chefs across the world run the restaurant gauntlet again and again. Why? They love to cook. They were made to cook. […]

Continue

review: glutting… (m. wells)

Can there ever be too much foie gras? Debatable. I mean, surely there’s a point of diminishing returns, right? I wasn’t about to test the limits. But, I had heard that everything at M. Wells, the “Quebeco-American diner” in Long Island City brought to you by a former chef of Au Pied de Cochon in […]

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review: glutting… (m. wells)

Can there ever be too much foie gras? Debatable. I mean, surely there’s a point of diminishing returns, right? I wasn’t about to test the limits. But, I had heard that everything at M. Wells, the “Quebeco-American diner” in Long Island City brought to you by a former chef of Au Pied de Cochon in […]

Continue

travel: one million calories…

I apologize for the month-long pause.  I was busy eating the shizz out of May. Thirty days. Four states. Nearly seventy restaurants. Over twenty-five Michelin stars.  Hundreds of plates.  And the most extraordinary cast of characters. I had a great month.

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travel: one million calories…

I apologize for the month-long pause.  I was busy eating the shizz out of May. Thirty days. Four states. Nearly seventy restaurants. Over twenty-five Michelin stars.  Hundreds of plates.  And the most extraordinary cast of characters. I had a great month.

Continue

review: around the world in 18 plates…

Never has there been so much interest, never have I received so many emails or tweet requests to hasten the posting of a restaurant review as I have for my recent meal at McCrady’s. In fact, so intense has been the enthusiasm, so high the demand that I fear I’m unable to give the experience […]

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review: around the world in 18 plates…

Never has there been so much interest, never have I received so many emails or tweet requests to hasten the posting of a restaurant review as I have for my recent meal at McCrady’s. In fact, so intense has been the enthusiasm, so high the demand that I fear I’m unable to give the experience […]

Continue

review: provenance… (husk)

He’s a farmer, horticulturalist, anthropologist, historian, and preservationist.* He’s an author, inventor, husband, cocktailian, comedian, and restaurateur. He’s a peacemaker – advocating for cornbread, not war. He’s a James Beard Award-winner and, undoubtedly, one of the best chefs in America right now. And he’s only seventeen days older than I. But most importantly, he’s a […]

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review: provenance… (husk)

He’s a farmer, horticulturalist, anthropologist, historian, and preservationist.* He’s an author, inventor, husband, cocktailian, comedian, and restaurateur. He’s a peacemaker – advocating for cornbread, not war. He’s a James Beard Award-winner and, undoubtedly, one of the best chefs in America right now. And he’s only seventeen days older than I. But most importantly, he’s a […]

Continue

review: atonal…

Statistics alone would suggest that, of the twenty-plus meals I had in Europe earlier this year, there would be at least one dud. I just didn’t expect it to be l’Astrance. Perennially celebrated by chefs and “lists,” Pascal Barbot’s restaurant in Paris’s upper-crust 16eme is considered by many to be one of the best in […]

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review: atonal…

Statistics alone would suggest that, of the twenty-plus meals I had in Europe earlier this year, there would be at least one dud. I just didn’t expect it to be l’Astrance. Perennially celebrated by chefs and “lists,” Pascal Barbot’s restaurant in Paris’s upper-crust 16eme is considered by many to be one of the best in […]

Continue

review: you can’t get there quickly enough…

Seasalter, Laguiole, Baerenthal, Cala Montjoi, Honfleur, Fürstenau, Sluis, and Järpen: these are just a few of the far-flung places that people travel many hours – by planes, trains, automobiles, and, if you’re foolish and crazy like me, bicycles – to reach just to have a meal. There is not, unfortunately, the same tradition of traveling […]

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review: you can’t get there quickly enough…

Seasalter, Laguiole, Baerenthal, Cala Montjoi, Honfleur, Fürstenau, Sluis, and Järpen: these are just a few of the far-flung places that people travel many hours – by planes, trains, automobiles, and, if you’re foolish and crazy like me, bicycles – to reach just to have a meal. There is not, unfortunately, the same tradition of traveling […]

Continue

review: mirroring miró…

“It isn’t easy being the successor to the Pope,” Philippe Rochat is once quoted as saying. The “Pope,” to whom Rochat referred was, of course, Frédy Girardet, the legendary Swiss chef and early champion of the lighter, more playful nouvelle cuisine. A contemporary of Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé, and Joël Robuchon, Girardet is considered by […]

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review: mirroring miró…

“It isn’t easy being the successor to the Pope,” Philippe Rochat is once quoted as saying. The “Pope,” to whom Rochat referred was, of course, Frédy Girardet, the legendary Swiss chef and early champion of the lighter, more playful nouvelle cuisine. A contemporary of Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé, and Joël Robuchon, Girardet is considered by […]

Continue

review: the mill…

Where does one have lunch before dinner at elBulli? My friends and I agreed that a more traditional, Catalan meal would be proper. So, from Girona, we sped off into the hills in search of el Moli, whose name had been dropped by friends of friends of friends. That seems to be the only reliable […]

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review: the mill…

Where does one have lunch before dinner at elBulli? My friends and I agreed that a more traditional, Catalan meal would be proper. So, from Girona, we sped off into the hills in search of el Moli, whose name had been dropped by friends of friends of friends. That seems to be the only reliable […]

Continue

review: the happiest corner on earth…

If good food is to be celebrated, then there is much too little mirth at the high end of gastronomy these days. And, it seems that the more you spend, the more sombre the scene, the more severe the service. At their best, meals should be fun and delicious, a party for one or for […]

Continue

review: the happiest corner on earth…

If good food is to be celebrated, then there is much too little mirth at the high end of gastronomy these days. And, it seems that the more you spend, the more sombre the scene, the more severe the service. At their best, meals should be fun and delicious, a party for one or for […]

Continue