travel: the city by the bay… (san francisco; 2018)

– According to the year-end travel summaries and stats issued annually by my airline of choice, San Francisco has been my most-frequent destination for the past four years.  And yet, I rarely mention the city on this blog. I’ve written about eating in cities like New York, Copenhagen, Paris, Kansas City (where I get my mail), […]

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travel: the city by the bay… (san francisco; 2018)

– According to the year-end travel summaries and stats issued annually by my airline of choice, San Francisco has been my most-frequent destination for the past four years.  And yet, I rarely mention the city on this blog. I’ve written about eating in cities like New York, Copenhagen, Paris, Kansas City (where I get my mail), […]

Continue

favorite desserts of 2016…

– What is happening in pastryland? In 2015, I described a slow-down and a top-off, as the energy and excitement that I first noticed propelling dessert-making into a new era half a decade ago began to level.  And as that unbridled sprint into the unknown, which had charted new and exciting territory, suddenly slowed, the language and form of pastry in this new era seemed to […]

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favorite desserts of 2016…

– What is happening in pastryland? In 2015, I described a slow-down and a top-off, as the energy and excitement that I first noticed propelling dessert-making into a new era half a decade ago began to level.  And as that unbridled sprint into the unknown, which had charted new and exciting territory, suddenly slowed, the language and form of pastry in this new era seemed to […]

Continue

best desserts of 2015…

– I started issuing a list of my favorite desserts in 2011 because I noticed something exciting happening in pastryland, and I wanted a record of it. At the time, many pastry chefs were branching out and exploring new territory, while others hunkered down to improve upon what was already there.  And in just a few, short years, together, they have widened the borders of […]

Continue

best desserts of 2015…

– I started issuing a list of my favorite desserts in 2011 because I noticed something exciting happening in pastryland, and I wanted a record of it. At the time, many pastry chefs were branching out and exploring new territory, while others hunkered down to improve upon what was already there.  And in just a few, short years, together, they have widened the borders of […]

Continue

12 days: on the third day of christmas: puglisi… (2015)

~ At a dinner at relæ in Copenhagen a few months ago, I marveled at the amount of flavor coaxed out of carrots and seaweed – an unexpectedly dynamic marriage – and how simple and delicious chicken could be with little more than its crispy skin, blitzed into a crunchy crumble, and some cabbage (here […]

Continue

12 days: on the third day of christmas: puglisi… (2015)

~ At a dinner at relæ in Copenhagen a few months ago, I marveled at the amount of flavor coaxed out of carrots and seaweed – an unexpectedly dynamic marriage – and how simple and delicious chicken could be with little more than its crispy skin, blitzed into a crunchy crumble, and some cabbage (here […]

Continue

best desserts of 2014…

– My parents, who immigrated to the United States over forty years ago, said that, when they first arrived on these shores, they had no concept of “dessert.”  In Taiwan, where they had spent most of their lives until that point, there were bakeries that sold sweet pastries, and confectioners who made candy. But most of […]

Continue

best desserts of 2014…

– My parents, who immigrated to the United States over forty years ago, said that, when they first arrived on these shores, they had no concept of “dessert.”  In Taiwan, where they had spent most of their lives until that point, there were bakeries that sold sweet pastries, and confectioners who made candy. But most of […]

Continue

best desserts of 2012…

~ Last year, I asked: “Is pastry having a ‘moment?’” The question was clearly rhetorical. And in the paragraphs that followed, I cited dozens of examples of why I thought it was so. In 2012, pastry sustained its “moment” because chefs kept redefining and expanding its borders. They continued to explore uncharted territory, questioning tradition, […]

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best desserts of 2012…

~ Last year, I asked: “Is pastry having a ‘moment?’” The question was clearly rhetorical. And in the paragraphs that followed, I cited dozens of examples of why I thought it was so. In 2012, pastry sustained its “moment” because chefs kept redefining and expanding its borders. They continued to explore uncharted territory, questioning tradition, […]

Continue

photo of the week 33: changing of the guard…

For more than a year, a cube, lathered green with an emulsion of fines herbes and sided by a baby salad, has officiated the stream of traffic on this blog from the marquee above. Last night, I changed the window dressing, putting in a line of chocolate donuts from my recent meal at elBulli.

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photo of the week 33: changing of the guard…

For more than a year, a cube, lathered green with an emulsion of fines herbes and sided by a baby salad, has officiated the stream of traffic on this blog from the marquee above. Last night, I changed the window dressing, putting in a line of chocolate donuts from my recent meal at elBulli.

Continue

are you being served…

Pull up your knickers and call me Captain Peacock. I don’t know how many countless childhood hours I spent musing over the antics of the staff of Grace Brothers, a fictional department store in London and the setting of the impossibly absurd British television comedy, “Are You Being Served?” While most kids my age were […]

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are you being served…

Pull up your knickers and call me Captain Peacock. I don’t know how many countless childhood hours I spent musing over the antics of the staff of Grace Brothers, a fictional department store in London and the setting of the impossibly absurd British television comedy, “Are You Being Served?” While most kids my age were […]

Continue

photo of the week 3: i scream, you scream…

I must be a long-lost member of the Munster clan.  A little dark cloud perpetually hovers over me, following me wherever I go.  I thrive in the cool and overcast corners of the world.  Seattle, San Francisco, and London – in their foggier months – beckon.  Sweaters, thunderstorms, snow, and air conditioning are my friends. […]

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photo of the week 3: i scream, you scream…

I must be a long-lost member of the Munster clan.  A little dark cloud perpetually hovers over me, following me wherever I go.  I thrive in the cool and overcast corners of the world.  Seattle, San Francisco, and London – in their foggier months – beckon.  Sweaters, thunderstorms, snow, and air conditioning are my friends. […]

Continue