review: on the roof…

La Cantina, Coyote Cafe Santa Fe, New Mexico About two years ago, Mark Miller – a Chez Panisse alumnus and Berkeley transplant – sold his celebrated Coyote Cafe to fellow Santa Fe chef/restaurateur Eric DiStefano of Geronimo. While the Coyote Cafe is a more formal restaurant, the Cantina – its sister operation on the rooftop […]

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review: on the roof…

La Cantina, Coyote Cafe Santa Fe, New Mexico About two years ago, Mark Miller – a Chez Panisse alumnus and Berkeley transplant – sold his celebrated Coyote Cafe to fellow Santa Fe chef/restaurateur Eric DiStefano of Geronimo. While the Coyote Cafe is a more formal restaurant, the Cantina – its sister operation on the rooftop […]

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review: palace of tongues and durian…

Duck Tongues in Abalone Sauce Summer Palace, Hong Kong An impromptu pay-back lunch found a friend and me deliberating on a convenient, yet pleasing place for a quick lunch on my last day in Hong Kong. Lung King Heen, where I had a pretty successful meal the week before, was fully booked. And Yan Toh […]

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review: palace of tongues and durian…

Duck Tongues in Abalone Sauce Summer Palace, Hong Kong An impromptu pay-back lunch found a friend and me deliberating on a convenient, yet pleasing place for a quick lunch on my last day in Hong Kong. Lung King Heen, where I had a pretty successful meal the week before, was fully booked. And Yan Toh […]

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review: the stew…

Cold Red Raspberry Soup The Shed, Santa Fe The Shed is often cited as the place to go for New Mexican food in Santa Fe. Lately, however, just as much praise (if not more) from the locals has been directed towards its sister restaurant, La Choza, in the Santa Fe rail yard.  Still, many favor […]

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review: the stew…

Cold Red Raspberry Soup The Shed, Santa Fe The Shed is often cited as the place to go for New Mexican food in Santa Fe. Lately, however, just as much praise (if not more) from the locals has been directed towards its sister restaurant, La Choza, in the Santa Fe rail yard.  Still, many favor […]

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review: road-side rellenos…

tune-up cafe, Santa Fe The tune-up cafe is a good reminder that food doesn’t have to be expensive to be good. This unassuming little road-side eatery, located along a rather uneventful stretch of Hickox street within walking distance of the Santa Fe rail yard, is owned and operated by El Salvadoran Jesus Rivera and his […]

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review: road-side rellenos…

tune-up cafe, Santa Fe The tune-up cafe is a good reminder that food doesn’t have to be expensive to be good. This unassuming little road-side eatery, located along a rather uneventful stretch of Hickox street within walking distance of the Santa Fe rail yard, is owned and operated by El Salvadoran Jesus Rivera and his […]

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travel: ennead…

Night view from Victoria Peak Hong Kong I just returned from having nine meals in city of nine dragons. Since the Handover in 1997, when I last lived and worked in Hong Kong, a lot has changed.  The city’s skyline has spread; it’s now wider and taller. The I(nternational)F(inancial)C(enter), which was still a glimmer in […]

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travel: ennead…

Night view from Victoria Peak Hong Kong I just returned from having nine meals in city of nine dragons. Since the Handover in 1997, when I last lived and worked in Hong Kong, a lot has changed.  The city’s skyline has spread; it’s now wider and taller. The I(nternational)F(inancial)C(enter), which was still a glimmer in […]

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review: l’art pour l’art…

Black Bean Tofu Bar Charlie, Las Vegas, Nevada Charlie Trotter may have been one of the first big named chefs to arrive on the Las Vegas scene.  He had a restaurant in the MGM Grand years ago. Supposedly, the food was great.  So great, in fact, that it kept the big whales away from the […]

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review: l’art pour l’art…

Black Bean Tofu Bar Charlie, Las Vegas, Nevada Charlie Trotter may have been one of the first big named chefs to arrive on the Las Vegas scene.  He had a restaurant in the MGM Grand years ago. Supposedly, the food was great.  So great, in fact, that it kept the big whales away from the […]

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travel: a thin veil of vibrant blue…

Chiles Santa Fe, New Mexico I’ve been looking for a good excuse to visit Santa Fe for quite some time. Natalie Dessay gave me one. She was to appear at the Santa Fe Opera, a spectacular venue I have longed to see in person. I had to go. Since you probably don’t read my blog […]

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travel: a thin veil of vibrant blue…

Chiles Santa Fe, New Mexico I’ve been looking for a good excuse to visit Santa Fe for quite some time. Natalie Dessay gave me one. She was to appear at the Santa Fe Opera, a spectacular venue I have longed to see in person. I had to go. Since you probably don’t read my blog […]

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review: disney on the saône…

Soupe aux Truffes Noirs “V.G.E.” Paul Bocuse, Pont de Collonges, France Swap the mouse ears for a toque, trade the turreted castle for an auberge, and convert the Potemkin “Main Street U.S.A.” into yards of colorful murals of chefs and tablescapes and you have Disney on the Saône. Monsieur Paul Bocuse, the longest-reigning 3-star Michelin […]

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review: disney on the saône…

Soupe aux Truffes Noirs “V.G.E.” Paul Bocuse, Pont de Collonges, France Swap the mouse ears for a toque, trade the turreted castle for an auberge, and convert the Potemkin “Main Street U.S.A.” into yards of colorful murals of chefs and tablescapes and you have Disney on the Saône. Monsieur Paul Bocuse, the longest-reigning 3-star Michelin […]

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review: king of the hill…

Sea Bream Manresa, Los Gatos, California Three years ago, I stumbled upon greatness. Manresa opened a chapter to an era and a process. Last month, I returned and found that process not only undisturbed, but evolved, advanced, and flourishing within its own world. It was great to return to the place where so much for […]

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review: king of the hill…

Sea Bream Manresa, Los Gatos, California Three years ago, I stumbled upon greatness. Manresa opened a chapter to an era and a process. Last month, I returned and found that process not only undisturbed, but evolved, advanced, and flourishing within its own world. It was great to return to the place where so much for […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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