Tag: 2009

photo of the week 8: rodeo truck driver…

One year ago this week, I had the honor and pleasure of inviting Johnny Iuzzini, the executive pastry chef of Jean Georges (and co-host of the upcoming BravoTV show “Just Desserts“), to cook at a special dinner here in Kansas City.   The American Restaurant agreed to host the dinner, a benefit for the James Beard […]

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photo of the week 8: rodeo truck driver…

One year ago this week, I had the honor and pleasure of inviting Johnny Iuzzini, the executive pastry chef of Jean Georges (and co-host of the upcoming BravoTV show “Just Desserts“), to cook at a special dinner here in Kansas City.   The American Restaurant agreed to host the dinner, a benefit for the James Beard […]

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review: word of mouth…

Xi Yan Wanchai, Hong Kong Some restaurants exist solely by word of mouth.  They are underground, known only among the dining cognescenti. In Hong Kong, they’re referred to as “private kitchens,” though they are neither private nor a kitchen. They are restaurants, understated. They are usually small, reservation-only.  And they’re usually hard to get into. […]

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review: word of mouth…

Xi Yan Wanchai, Hong Kong Some restaurants exist solely by word of mouth.  They are underground, known only among the dining cognescenti. In Hong Kong, they’re referred to as “private kitchens,” though they are neither private nor a kitchen. They are restaurants, understated. They are usually small, reservation-only.  And they’re usually hard to get into. […]

Continue

review: damn the torpedoes…

Abalone Aqua, San Francisco This review is moot.  You’ll see why in a second. To the best of my ability, a timeline: 1991: Aqua opened at 252 California Street in San Francisco with George Morrone as the executive chef. 1993: Michael Mina took the reins in the kitchen as executive chef.  He also assumed ownership […]

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review: damn the torpedoes…

Abalone Aqua, San Francisco This review is moot.  You’ll see why in a second. To the best of my ability, a timeline: 1991: Aqua opened at 252 California Street in San Francisco with George Morrone as the executive chef. 1993: Michael Mina took the reins in the kitchen as executive chef.  He also assumed ownership […]

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review: initialism…

Bay Scallops SPQR, San Francisco An unassuming eatery tucked away in the Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, S.P.Q.R. is probably best known as the more casual cousin to A16.  Both restaurants are were co-owned by Nate Appleman, who was, for a time, the culinary darling au current of America. But Appleman has quieted down […]

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review: initialism…

Bay Scallops SPQR, San Francisco An unassuming eatery tucked away in the Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, S.P.Q.R. is probably best known as the more casual cousin to A16.  Both restaurants are were co-owned by Nate Appleman, who was, for a time, the culinary darling au current of America. But Appleman has quieted down […]

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review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

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review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

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review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

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review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

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review: no echo…

“Pink Grapefruit” coi, San Francisco, California In 2006, I asked David Kinch of Manresa which restaurants were moving and shaking in the Bay Area. He told me about a small, fledgling start-up that a former Manresa cook was opening that week. That restaurant was coi. The chef-patron, as you probably know, is Daniel Patterson. Regrettably, […]

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review: no echo…

“Pink Grapefruit” coi, San Francisco, California In 2006, I asked David Kinch of Manresa which restaurants were moving and shaking in the Bay Area. He told me about a small, fledgling start-up that a former Manresa cook was opening that week. That restaurant was coi. The chef-patron, as you probably know, is Daniel Patterson. Regrettably, […]

Continue

review: untethered…

Blue Hill at Stone Barns Pocantico Hills, New York On one side, you have those who would look at it and say, “It’s just a salad.” On the other side, you’ll find those who would argue, “It may be just a salad, but that’s not the point.” I have to admit, I expected more than […]

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review: untethered…

Blue Hill at Stone Barns Pocantico Hills, New York On one side, you have those who would look at it and say, “It’s just a salad.” On the other side, you’ll find those who would argue, “It may be just a salad, but that’s not the point.” I have to admit, I expected more than […]

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best of 2009, the restaurant edition…

Corton New York, New York The course of any meal unfolds in a highly personal and circumstantial way.  Evaluating any restaurant experience devoid of personal context (e.g. company, mood, and personal preferences) is an impossible task. Though I like think that I can be scrupulously objective, I know that emotion trumps reason, personal preferences cloud […]

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best of 2009, the restaurant edition…

Corton New York, New York The course of any meal unfolds in a highly personal and circumstantial way.  Evaluating any restaurant experience devoid of personal context (e.g. company, mood, and personal preferences) is an impossible task. Though I like think that I can be scrupulously objective, I know that emotion trumps reason, personal preferences cloud […]

Continue

best dishes of 2009…

Petales de Melon Confit Pierre, Hong Kong 2009 arrived on the heels of an incomparable eating tour of London, Paris, and beyond.  I can’t believe a year has gone by since I stuffed myself silly with macarons, cheese, bread, butter, and truffles. As memorable and impressive as my eating itinerary was last year, I can’t […]

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best dishes of 2009…

Petales de Melon Confit Pierre, Hong Kong 2009 arrived on the heels of an incomparable eating tour of London, Paris, and beyond.  I can’t believe a year has gone by since I stuffed myself silly with macarons, cheese, bread, butter, and truffles. As memorable and impressive as my eating itinerary was last year, I can’t […]

Continue