favorites of 2019: the restaurant edition…

A tangle of claws cascading from scalloped rims brimming with ice and seafood. A shoulder of goat with crispy skin and tender meat melting off the bone. Glistening turbot, straight off the coals, and trolleys laden with all manner of goodies, from sweets to cheeses. These are just a few of the incredible scenes I […]

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favorites of 2019: the restaurant edition…

A tangle of claws cascading from scalloped rims brimming with ice and seafood. A shoulder of goat with crispy skin and tender meat melting off the bone. Glistening turbot, straight off the coals, and trolleys laden with all manner of goodies, from sweets to cheeses. These are just a few of the incredible scenes I […]

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travel: leapfrogging…

~ Another year is gone, and I’ve barely written about it.  This is especially sad to me, since so many wonderful things happened. Every year, I pause at calendar’s end to record and remember the anxieties and adventures that made the preceding months memorable, including an accounting of all the restaurants I visited, and my favorite meals and dishes among […]

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travel: leapfrogging…

~ Another year is gone, and I’ve barely written about it.  This is especially sad to me, since so many wonderful things happened. Every year, I pause at calendar’s end to record and remember the anxieties and adventures that made the preceding months memorable, including an accounting of all the restaurants I visited, and my favorite meals and dishes among […]

Continue

travel: intercontinental… (chile; part i)

~ Chile, as we know it now, is a fairly young country.  As recently as my childhood, which fell squarely in the Reagan years, the fascist dictator Augusto Pinochet terrorized the country with oppressive economic reforms and alleged crimes against humanity, leaving its citizens dispirited and its economy in shambles.  It wasn’t until a referendum […]

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travel: intercontinental… (chile; part i)

~ Chile, as we know it now, is a fairly young country.  As recently as my childhood, which fell squarely in the Reagan years, the fascist dictator Augusto Pinochet terrorized the country with oppressive economic reforms and alleged crimes against humanity, leaving its citizens dispirited and its economy in shambles.  It wasn’t until a referendum […]

Continue

travel: between bike rides and barbecues…

~ Does the sun set more colorfully in South Carolina?  Do flavors speak more honestly the closer you get to Mississippi?  Does time slow as you approach Georgia?  Is this love? In an exchange I had with a Southern chef recently, I wrote: “Even though I have spent my entire life outside of the South, […]

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travel: between bike rides and barbecues…

~ Does the sun set more colorfully in South Carolina?  Do flavors speak more honestly the closer you get to Mississippi?  Does time slow as you approach Georgia?  Is this love? In an exchange I had with a Southern chef recently, I wrote: “Even though I have spent my entire life outside of the South, […]

Continue

best dishes of 2010…

It’s that time of year again when I shock myself into making new year resolutions by taking a look back at all of the food I ate in the last twelve months. Over the past few weeks, I’ve revisited hundreds of dishes and, through some mysterious and highly subjective process that involves memory and mood, […]

Continue

best dishes of 2010…

It’s that time of year again when I shock myself into making new year resolutions by taking a look back at all of the food I ate in the last twelve months. Over the past few weeks, I’ve revisited hundreds of dishes and, through some mysterious and highly subjective process that involves memory and mood, […]

Continue

review: sweet heat…

The fact that Kevin Gillespie was one of my favorite cheftestants from Season 6 of BravoTV’s Top Chef reality show factored little in my decision to visit Woodfire Grill.* In fact, I hadn’t intended on eating at Woodfire Grill at all on my recent stop in Atlanta. When Gillespie passed through Kansas City earlier this […]

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review: sweet heat…

The fact that Kevin Gillespie was one of my favorite cheftestants from Season 6 of BravoTV’s Top Chef reality show factored little in my decision to visit Woodfire Grill.* In fact, I hadn’t intended on eating at Woodfire Grill at all on my recent stop in Atlanta. When Gillespie passed through Kansas City earlier this […]

Continue

travel: and then there were nine…

Before last week, I had not visited ten of the fifty states: Alaska, Georgia, Idaho, Maine, Mississippi, Montana, South Carolina, Utah, Vermont, and Wyoming. But a last-minute, two-day trip to Atlanta (finally) took Georgia off that list. Using the local, jalapeno-popping blogger, Blissful Glutton, as a sounding board, I decided to eat at Linton Hopkin’s […]

Continue

travel: and then there were nine…

Before last week, I had not visited ten of the fifty states: Alaska, Georgia, Idaho, Maine, Mississippi, Montana, South Carolina, Utah, Vermont, and Wyoming. But a last-minute, two-day trip to Atlanta (finally) took Georgia off that list. Using the local, jalapeno-popping blogger, Blissful Glutton, as a sounding board, I decided to eat at Linton Hopkin’s […]

Continue