12 days: on the sixth day of christmas: brock… (2017)
– By now, Sean Brock’s great contributions to the current wave of revivalism rippling through our American South is widely known. While organizations like the Southern Foodways Alliance have been crucial to the documentation and preservation of that region’s rich, culinary heritage, Brock’s ability to communicate and apply his obsession with Southern history and culture in his […]
– By now, Sean Brock’s great contributions to the current wave of revivalism rippling through our American South is widely known. While organizations like the Southern Foodways Alliance have been crucial to the documentation and preservation of that region’s rich, culinary heritage, Brock’s ability to communicate and apply his obsession with Southern history and culture in his […]
12 days: on the third day of christmas: stone and von hauske… (2017)
– The Twelve Days of Christmas are especially festive when good friends are in the kitchen. Familiarity and conviviality go a long way in making the experience a fun one for everyone. And if there are two chefs this year who could bring a party atmosphere to the kitchen of The Restaurant at Meadowood, it would […]
– The Twelve Days of Christmas are especially festive when good friends are in the kitchen. Familiarity and conviviality go a long way in making the experience a fun one for everyone. And if there are two chefs this year who could bring a party atmosphere to the kitchen of The Restaurant at Meadowood, it would […]
12 days: on the second day of christmas: mehrotra… (2017)
– Every time I have Indian food – and, sadly, it is not often that I am around it – I wonder why I don’t seek it out more. As with Indian culture, the colors, flavors, and traditions of Indian cookery are vivid and expressive, engaging and alluring. And that’s how I would describe the […]
– Every time I have Indian food – and, sadly, it is not often that I am around it – I wonder why I don’t seek it out more. As with Indian culture, the colors, flavors, and traditions of Indian cookery are vivid and expressive, engaging and alluring. And that’s how I would describe the […]
best of 2015: the restaurant edition…
~ In 2015, quite a few tracks upon which I had been running slowly began to converge. While my destination remains unclear, my direction has become much more so. Rapidly disappearing is my desire to keep apace with the restaurant industry, as I watch food media disintegrating into a pile of clickbait and shallow memes, the overwhelming weight […]
~ In 2015, quite a few tracks upon which I had been running slowly began to converge. While my destination remains unclear, my direction has become much more so. Rapidly disappearing is my desire to keep apace with the restaurant industry, as I watch food media disintegrating into a pile of clickbait and shallow memes, the overwhelming weight […]
best desserts of 2015…
– I started issuing a list of my favorite desserts in 2011 because I noticed something exciting happening in pastryland, and I wanted a record of it. At the time, many pastry chefs were branching out and exploring new territory, while others hunkered down to improve upon what was already there. And in just a few, short years, together, they have widened the borders of […]
– I started issuing a list of my favorite desserts in 2011 because I noticed something exciting happening in pastryland, and I wanted a record of it. At the time, many pastry chefs were branching out and exploring new territory, while others hunkered down to improve upon what was already there. And in just a few, short years, together, they have widened the borders of […]
best dishes of 2015…
– There was no runaway hit in 2015. There were quite a few of them. However, whereas in past years, canvassing through hundreds of dishes for my 25 favorite was a particularly difficult task – one that I was often unable to carry out successfully, forcing me to append a spillover list that often included just as […]
– There was no runaway hit in 2015. There were quite a few of them. However, whereas in past years, canvassing through hundreds of dishes for my 25 favorite was a particularly difficult task – one that I was often unable to carry out successfully, forcing me to append a spillover list that often included just as […]
12 days: on the eleventh day of christmas: yu… (2015)
~ A dinner series called the Twelve Days of Christmas hosted by a Jewish chef wouldn’t be complete without Chinese food, right? Enter: Justin Yu. He’s the chef and co-owner of Oxheart, a restaurant in Houston where he has earned national acclaim for his vegetable-focused menu. The last time I was in Houston was in 1988. So, unfortunately, I haven’t eaten […]
~ A dinner series called the Twelve Days of Christmas hosted by a Jewish chef wouldn’t be complete without Chinese food, right? Enter: Justin Yu. He’s the chef and co-owner of Oxheart, a restaurant in Houston where he has earned national acclaim for his vegetable-focused menu. The last time I was in Houston was in 1988. So, unfortunately, I haven’t eaten […]
12 days: on the ninth day of christmas: connaughton… (2015)
~ Single Thread Farms Restaurant & Inn was conceived long before I first met Kyle Connaughton in March of 2014 at the Rediscovering Coastal Cuisine event in Carmel, California. I know this because I had heard murmurings of it before I heard about it from Connaughton himself. Now, nearly two years later, the multi-faceted enterprise – which, […]
~ Single Thread Farms Restaurant & Inn was conceived long before I first met Kyle Connaughton in March of 2014 at the Rediscovering Coastal Cuisine event in Carmel, California. I know this because I had heard murmurings of it before I heard about it from Connaughton himself. Now, nearly two years later, the multi-faceted enterprise – which, […]
12 days: on the seventh day of christmas: floresca and ryan… (2015)
~ Two more impressive culinary resumés you will hardly find in a pair than Kim Floresca‘s and Daniel Ryan‘s. (It’d also be a challenge to find two more lovely and generous people.) Between the two of them, they’ve worked at The French Laundry, Alinea, per se, Alain Ducasse NY, and Eleven Madison Park; and together, they […]
~ Two more impressive culinary resumés you will hardly find in a pair than Kim Floresca‘s and Daniel Ryan‘s. (It’d also be a challenge to find two more lovely and generous people.) Between the two of them, they’ve worked at The French Laundry, Alinea, per se, Alain Ducasse NY, and Eleven Madison Park; and together, they […]
12 days: on the fourth day of christmas: vallejo… (2015)
~ One of the most memorable meals I’ve had in Mexico City was at Quintonil in the city’s posh Polanco district. The cooking there combined the saturated flavors and colors of Mexican cookery with the ingredients and sentiments of cultures abroad. In particular, I remember blushing slices of ahi tuna with warm pico de gallo and an inky […]
~ One of the most memorable meals I’ve had in Mexico City was at Quintonil in the city’s posh Polanco district. The cooking there combined the saturated flavors and colors of Mexican cookery with the ingredients and sentiments of cultures abroad. In particular, I remember blushing slices of ahi tuna with warm pico de gallo and an inky […]