favorite dishes of 2017…
– I took the lessons I learned in 2016 and applied them to 2017. Staying close to familiar quarters, I continued to bet on sure winners. They did not disappoint. And, although many of my travel destinations in 2017 were not chosen with great food in mind, I found some great food anyway. Let me […]
– I took the lessons I learned in 2016 and applied them to 2017. Staying close to familiar quarters, I continued to bet on sure winners. They did not disappoint. And, although many of my travel destinations in 2017 were not chosen with great food in mind, I found some great food anyway. Let me […]
12 days: on the sixth day of christmas: brock… (2017)
– By now, Sean Brock’s great contributions to the current wave of revivalism rippling through our American South is widely known. While organizations like the Southern Foodways Alliance have been crucial to the documentation and preservation of that region’s rich, culinary heritage, Brock’s ability to communicate and apply his obsession with Southern history and culture in his […]
– By now, Sean Brock’s great contributions to the current wave of revivalism rippling through our American South is widely known. While organizations like the Southern Foodways Alliance have been crucial to the documentation and preservation of that region’s rich, culinary heritage, Brock’s ability to communicate and apply his obsession with Southern history and culture in his […]
travel: blurred lines…
~ At the end of each of the last two years, I’ve looked back in awe at a calendar filled with adventures. At the same time, I’ve stared nervously into the new year, wondering how it might fill up, if at all. We are at the bottom of December, once again. And, once again, I […]
~ At the end of each of the last two years, I’ve looked back in awe at a calendar filled with adventures. At the same time, I’ve stared nervously into the new year, wondering how it might fill up, if at all. We are at the bottom of December, once again. And, once again, I […]
best dishes of 2012…
~ Seven years ago, I surveyed all of the dishes I had eaten in that year and compiled a list of my favorites, more for my own record than for posterity. Since, it has become an annual tradition. 2012 marked another spectacular year of eating for me. Once again, I traveled the world, visiting restaurants […]
~ Seven years ago, I surveyed all of the dishes I had eaten in that year and compiled a list of my favorites, more for my own record than for posterity. Since, it has become an annual tradition. 2012 marked another spectacular year of eating for me. Once again, I traveled the world, visiting restaurants […]
travel: between bike rides and barbecues…
~ Does the sun set more colorfully in South Carolina? Do flavors speak more honestly the closer you get to Mississippi? Does time slow as you approach Georgia? Is this love? In an exchange I had with a Southern chef recently, I wrote: “Even though I have spent my entire life outside of the South, […]
~ Does the sun set more colorfully in South Carolina? Do flavors speak more honestly the closer you get to Mississippi? Does time slow as you approach Georgia? Is this love? In an exchange I had with a Southern chef recently, I wrote: “Even though I have spent my entire life outside of the South, […]
best of 2011: the restaurant edition…
Mood and mind, place and time: once recorded, they cannot be erased. Neither can company nor cast, nor the events that happened at table. To do so would be a pity anyway, for dining is theatre; every part a prop, everyone a role. And, as with life, in its unscripted scenes are often its finest […]
Mood and mind, place and time: once recorded, they cannot be erased. Neither can company nor cast, nor the events that happened at table. To do so would be a pity anyway, for dining is theatre; every part a prop, everyone a role. And, as with life, in its unscripted scenes are often its finest […]
best desserts of 2011…
(Frozen Sake; elBulli) Is pastry having a “moment?” Judging by the desserts I’ve had this year, I’d say it is. In the past, I’ve tacked on a dozen or so desserts to my annual “best dishes” post in a section at the bottom called “just desserts.” While their inclusion was far from an afterthought, even […]
(Frozen Sake; elBulli) Is pastry having a “moment?” Judging by the desserts I’ve had this year, I’d say it is. In the past, I’ve tacked on a dozen or so desserts to my annual “best dishes” post in a section at the bottom called “just desserts.” While their inclusion was far from an afterthought, even […]
best dishes of 2011…
(Crispy Pig Ears; Husk) * * * Another December, another set of listicles. Every year for the the past six, I’ve rounded up the best edibles of each and posted them here for posterity. They’ve included a list of my twenty-five favorite dishes, the best dozen desserts, and the top ten restaurant meals of each […]
(Crispy Pig Ears; Husk) * * * Another December, another set of listicles. Every year for the the past six, I’ve rounded up the best edibles of each and posted them here for posterity. They’ve included a list of my twenty-five favorite dishes, the best dozen desserts, and the top ten restaurant meals of each […]
travel: southern, by the grace of god…
If you’ve been to the South and didn’t leave smelling like bourbon and barbecue, then you had best go back and do it right. The scene of the last chapter of this most amazing year of travel and eating for me was set among the palmettos and live oaks of the Lowcountry. On 20,000-acres of […]
If you’ve been to the South and didn’t leave smelling like bourbon and barbecue, then you had best go back and do it right. The scene of the last chapter of this most amazing year of travel and eating for me was set among the palmettos and live oaks of the Lowcountry. On 20,000-acres of […]
review: retrospective… (alinea)
Nashville, Tennessee, 2004. A ruddy-cheeked cherub came out of the kitchen after dinner to say hello. He was just a kid. I was just a kid. We both loved food. He cooked. I ate. We started talking. Though our conversation drifted from here to there, it moored mostly around a new restaurant that was opening […]
Nashville, Tennessee, 2004. A ruddy-cheeked cherub came out of the kitchen after dinner to say hello. He was just a kid. I was just a kid. We both loved food. He cooked. I ate. We started talking. Though our conversation drifted from here to there, it moored mostly around a new restaurant that was opening […]