review: diva in white mourning…

masa New York, New York Of masa, the once-most expensive restaurant in the U.S., the few I know who have eaten there have said: save your money and go to Japan instead. Having (finally) eaten at masa, I can’t say I would disagree with that advice. This tiny temple of Japanese gastronomy was the talk […]

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review: diva in white mourning…

masa New York, New York Of masa, the once-most expensive restaurant in the U.S., the few I know who have eaten there have said: save your money and go to Japan instead. Having (finally) eaten at masa, I can’t say I would disagree with that advice. This tiny temple of Japanese gastronomy was the talk […]

Continue

review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: la bohème…

Coquilles Saint-Jacques d’Erquy a l’Unilaterale” l’Arpege, Paris, France Unlike its brethren, l’Arpege does not cosset and caress. Like the food it’s known for, this three-star Michelin restaurant is more hearth and home than retrofitted palace. It’s surprisingly Spartan, awkwardly configured, and a bit dated.  It’s mostly red (carpet; upholstery; and strange, sombrero-like chargers) with honey-colored, […]

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review: la bohème…

Coquilles Saint-Jacques d’Erquy a l’Unilaterale” l’Arpege, Paris, France Unlike its brethren, l’Arpege does not cosset and caress. Like the food it’s known for, this three-star Michelin restaurant is more hearth and home than retrofitted palace. It’s surprisingly Spartan, awkwardly configured, and a bit dated.  It’s mostly red (carpet; upholstery; and strange, sombrero-like chargers) with honey-colored, […]

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review: a different side of flavor…

Corton New York, New York Every year around this time, my postman has the honor of announcing Food + Wine’s Best New Chefs. Yes, little pleasures, tiny treasures. And so it was, yesterday, after a lengthy and long-overdue date with my running shoes, I returned to my corner of the world to find the latest […]

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review: a different side of flavor…

Corton New York, New York Every year around this time, my postman has the honor of announcing Food + Wine’s Best New Chefs. Yes, little pleasures, tiny treasures. And so it was, yesterday, after a lengthy and long-overdue date with my running shoes, I returned to my corner of the world to find the latest […]

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travel: america’s left bank…

Do people on the West Coast live longer than those on the East Coast? In five days and over the course of seven meals (four of which were tasting menus), foie gras only showed up once.  Seafood outnumbered the hoofed and fowl.  And vegetation of countless shapes, sizes, and colours dominated every plate (I’m purposely […]

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travel: america’s left bank…

Do people on the West Coast live longer than those on the East Coast? In five days and over the course of seven meals (four of which were tasting menus), foie gras only showed up once.  Seafood outnumbered the hoofed and fowl.  And vegetation of countless shapes, sizes, and colours dominated every plate (I’m purposely […]

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review: syncopated…

Premieres Asperges Vertes du Luberon le Cinq, Paris, France My friend Houston was landing at CDG just about the time I headed out for my daily weekly run. By the time I got home, showered, and changed, she buzzed me from her hotel. It was mid-morning and we hopped over to a café for some […]

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review: syncopated…

Premieres Asperges Vertes du Luberon le Cinq, Paris, France My friend Houston was landing at CDG just about the time I headed out for my daily weekly run. By the time I got home, showered, and changed, she buzzed me from her hotel. It was mid-morning and we hopped over to a café for some […]

Continue

review: doubt…

Gourgeres l’Ambroisie, Paris Have you seen Doubt? You should see Doubt. I mean, Meryl Streep could read a phone book and make me cry. Or laugh. Or both, at the same time. Actually, the real performance to watch in that movie is Viola Davis’s. Though Streep is onscreen for Davis’s entire five-minute appearance, Davis’s acting […]

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review: doubt…

Gourgeres l’Ambroisie, Paris Have you seen Doubt? You should see Doubt. I mean, Meryl Streep could read a phone book and make me cry. Or laugh. Or both, at the same time. Actually, the real performance to watch in that movie is Viola Davis’s. Though Streep is onscreen for Davis’s entire five-minute appearance, Davis’s acting […]

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review: carnivale…

Guy Savoy (Paris, France) I was late. My reservation at Guy Savoy was at noon. And it was just shy of 11.45 when I got the keys from the doorman. Having endured a painfully early wake-up call and restless shot through the Chunnel, I was underslept and overfed when I arrived at the Gare du […]

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review: carnivale…

Guy Savoy (Paris, France) I was late. My reservation at Guy Savoy was at noon. And it was just shy of 11.45 when I got the keys from the doorman. Having endured a painfully early wake-up call and restless shot through the Chunnel, I was underslept and overfed when I arrived at the Gare du […]

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travel: alors…

Veritas New York Alors. It’s been three months since I’ve returned from my little European excursion and I’m still working off the sins of my gluttony. I have yet to finish my posts about my Parisian dining, not to mention my Christmas day excursion to visit Paul Bocuse in Lyon. In the interim, I’ve turned […]

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travel: alors…

Veritas New York Alors. It’s been three months since I’ve returned from my little European excursion and I’m still working off the sins of my gluttony. I have yet to finish my posts about my Parisian dining, not to mention my Christmas day excursion to visit Paul Bocuse in Lyon. In the interim, I’ve turned […]

Continue

review: resta solo il canto…

Huckleberry Brioche frasca food and wine, Boulder, Colorado Aitch and C-Dawg are getting married! I’ve longed to go to frasca food & wine for years and Aitch and C-Dawg provided the perfect excuse for me to scoot out to Boulder, Colorado for a short weekend eat-away. Besides being the two smartest people I’ll ever meet, […]

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review: resta solo il canto…

Huckleberry Brioche frasca food and wine, Boulder, Colorado Aitch and C-Dawg are getting married! I’ve longed to go to frasca food & wine for years and Aitch and C-Dawg provided the perfect excuse for me to scoot out to Boulder, Colorado for a short weekend eat-away. Besides being the two smartest people I’ll ever meet, […]

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