review: a yawn revisited…

“Les Herbes” Last March, I heeled up to the counter at “McRobuchon” at The Four Seasons in New York and had myself one expensive yawn. At least, that’s how I characterized it in a blog post. But, that was a sensationalistically broad-stroked summary. If you read that post, you’ll see that L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon […]

Continue

review: a yawn revisited…

“Les Herbes” Last March, I heeled up to the counter at “McRobuchon” at The Four Seasons in New York and had myself one expensive yawn. At least, that’s how I characterized it in a blog post. But, that was a sensationalistically broad-stroked summary. If you read that post, you’ll see that L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon […]

Continue

review: verdantly criminal…

Green Pea Soup I’m filing a complaint. Chef Colby Garrelts of bluestem is abusing his diners. Witness: I was enjoying a magnificent spring pea soup (a little too much), poured around an airy quenelle of crème fraîche tableside at bluestem recently when my spoon hit bottom. I reached for the straw…. THERE’S NO STRAW!! What […]

Continue

review: verdantly criminal…

Green Pea Soup I’m filing a complaint. Chef Colby Garrelts of bluestem is abusing his diners. Witness: I was enjoying a magnificent spring pea soup (a little too much), poured around an airy quenelle of crème fraîche tableside at bluestem recently when my spoon hit bottom. I reached for the straw…. THERE’S NO STRAW!! What […]

Continue

review: as good as it gets…

Jean Georges My fingers weren’t nimble enough. Failing reservations at momofuku ko, I was forced to fall back on my Plan B. Thank goodness I had a Plan B. Given all the trials and tribulations that Jean Georges seems to have undergone according to the various online food fora in the past half year, I […]

Continue

review: as good as it gets…

Jean Georges My fingers weren’t nimble enough. Failing reservations at momofuku ko, I was forced to fall back on my Plan B. Thank goodness I had a Plan B. Given all the trials and tribulations that Jean Georges seems to have undergone according to the various online food fora in the past half year, I […]

Continue

review: the beautiful life…

Coppa-Crusted Rabbit Loin La Belle Vie I first enjoyed Chef Tim McKee’s cooking at Solera in Minneapolis in late 2004. I remember being astounded by his finessed flavors and innovative twists on Spanish tapas. I kept the menu from that meal and I recently dug it out to see what I had eaten. Even now, […]

Continue

review: the beautiful life…

Coppa-Crusted Rabbit Loin La Belle Vie I first enjoyed Chef Tim McKee’s cooking at Solera in Minneapolis in late 2004. I remember being astounded by his finessed flavors and innovative twists on Spanish tapas. I kept the menu from that meal and I recently dug it out to see what I had eaten. Even now, […]

Continue

no such thing as free bread…

Remember those good old days when bread was an expected service included in the price of your restaurant meal? Recently, I’ve visited two Kansas City restaurants where bread is now a menu item. That’s right. You don’t get bread unless you pay for it. Sarah’s Eat Drink Art, which is exclusively a soup, salad and […]

Continue

no such thing as free bread…

Remember those good old days when bread was an expected service included in the price of your restaurant meal? Recently, I’ve visited two Kansas City restaurants where bread is now a menu item. That’s right. You don’t get bread unless you pay for it. Sarah’s Eat Drink Art, which is exclusively a soup, salad and […]

Continue

a sneak tease…

Graham Elliot Bowles Photo courtesy of Ian D. Merritt www.idmphotography.com In a recent post about my dinner at Avenues, I alluded to the opening of graham elliot (click), Chef G.E. Bowles’ new eponymous “bistronomic” eatery in Chicago. I told you I would give you the skinny, and here it is: a sneak peek behind graham […]

Continue

a sneak tease…

Graham Elliot Bowles Photo courtesy of Ian D. Merritt www.idmphotography.com In a recent post about my dinner at Avenues, I alluded to the opening of graham elliot (click), Chef G.E. Bowles’ new eponymous “bistronomic” eatery in Chicago. I told you I would give you the skinny, and here it is: a sneak peek behind graham […]

Continue

end of an era…

40 Sardines Earlier today, I received the shocking news that 40 Sardines, the beloved and acclaimed restaurant opened by James Beard Award-winning chefs Debbie Gold and Michael Smith, closed its doors. I was in such denial that I drove all the way down to 119th & Roe in Overland Park to confirm this report; all […]

Continue

end of an era…

40 Sardines Earlier today, I received the shocking news that 40 Sardines, the beloved and acclaimed restaurant opened by James Beard Award-winning chefs Debbie Gold and Michael Smith, closed its doors. I was in such denial that I drove all the way down to 119th & Roe in Overland Park to confirm this report; all […]

Continue

review: a reunion at life…

Amuse Bouche: Brandade and Local Tomato Jam You know the gnocchi are good when the woman sitting next to you turns to her husband and says to him, “These gnocchi are nothing like yours! These are actually very good!!” And, all this time, she thought she hated gnocchi. To kick off my birthday weekend in […]

Continue

review: a reunion at life…

Amuse Bouche: Brandade and Local Tomato Jam You know the gnocchi are good when the woman sitting next to you turns to her husband and says to him, “These gnocchi are nothing like yours! These are actually very good!!” And, all this time, she thought she hated gnocchi. To kick off my birthday weekend in […]

Continue

james beard awards, 2008

Congratulations to all of the finalist nominees for the 2008 James Beard Awards. I’m pleased to announce the nominees from my region, four of whom’s cooking I’ve had the great pleasure of experiencing first hand: BEST CHEF: MIDWEST (IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, ND, SD, WI) Isaac Becker 112 eatery Minneapolis Colby Garrelts bluestem Kansas […]

Continue

james beard awards, 2008

Congratulations to all of the finalist nominees for the 2008 James Beard Awards. I’m pleased to announce the nominees from my region, four of whom’s cooking I’ve had the great pleasure of experiencing first hand: BEST CHEF: MIDWEST (IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, ND, SD, WI) Isaac Becker 112 eatery Minneapolis Colby Garrelts bluestem Kansas […]

Continue

review: hot diggity doug’s…

My friends and I were expecting a large meal at Avenues later that evening, so among the three of us (one being pregnant), we tried to be responsible and ordered 5 dogs (yet we still managed to hit a tacqueria on our way back) (You can see pictures of and read more about my lunch […]

Continue

review: hot diggity doug’s…

My friends and I were expecting a large meal at Avenues later that evening, so among the three of us (one being pregnant), we tried to be responsible and ordered 5 dogs (yet we still managed to hit a tacqueria on our way back) (You can see pictures of and read more about my lunch […]

Continue