Category: restaurant review

review: a different side of flavor…

Corton New York, New York Every year around this time, my postman has the honor of announcing Food + Wine’s Best New Chefs. Yes, little pleasures, tiny treasures. And so it was, yesterday, after a lengthy and long-overdue date with my running shoes, I returned to my corner of the world to find the latest […]

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review: a different side of flavor…

Corton New York, New York Every year around this time, my postman has the honor of announcing Food + Wine’s Best New Chefs. Yes, little pleasures, tiny treasures. And so it was, yesterday, after a lengthy and long-overdue date with my running shoes, I returned to my corner of the world to find the latest […]

Continue

review: syncopated…

Premieres Asperges Vertes du Luberon le Cinq, Paris, France My friend Houston was landing at CDG just about the time I headed out for my daily weekly run. By the time I got home, showered, and changed, she buzzed me from her hotel. It was mid-morning and we hopped over to a café for some […]

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review: syncopated…

Premieres Asperges Vertes du Luberon le Cinq, Paris, France My friend Houston was landing at CDG just about the time I headed out for my daily weekly run. By the time I got home, showered, and changed, she buzzed me from her hotel. It was mid-morning and we hopped over to a café for some […]

Continue

review: doubt…

Gourgeres l’Ambroisie, Paris Have you seen Doubt? You should see Doubt. I mean, Meryl Streep could read a phone book and make me cry. Or laugh. Or both, at the same time. Actually, the real performance to watch in that movie is Viola Davis’s. Though Streep is onscreen for Davis’s entire five-minute appearance, Davis’s acting […]

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review: doubt…

Gourgeres l’Ambroisie, Paris Have you seen Doubt? You should see Doubt. I mean, Meryl Streep could read a phone book and make me cry. Or laugh. Or both, at the same time. Actually, the real performance to watch in that movie is Viola Davis’s. Though Streep is onscreen for Davis’s entire five-minute appearance, Davis’s acting […]

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review: carnivale…

Guy Savoy (Paris, France) I was late. My reservation at Guy Savoy was at noon. And it was just shy of 11.45 when I got the keys from the doorman. Having endured a painfully early wake-up call and restless shot through the Chunnel, I was underslept and overfed when I arrived at the Gare du […]

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review: carnivale…

Guy Savoy (Paris, France) I was late. My reservation at Guy Savoy was at noon. And it was just shy of 11.45 when I got the keys from the doorman. Having endured a painfully early wake-up call and restless shot through the Chunnel, I was underslept and overfed when I arrived at the Gare du […]

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review: resta solo il canto…

Huckleberry Brioche frasca food and wine, Boulder, Colorado Aitch and C-Dawg are getting married! I’ve longed to go to frasca food & wine for years and Aitch and C-Dawg provided the perfect excuse for me to scoot out to Boulder, Colorado for a short weekend eat-away. Besides being the two smartest people I’ll ever meet, […]

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review: resta solo il canto…

Huckleberry Brioche frasca food and wine, Boulder, Colorado Aitch and C-Dawg are getting married! I’ve longed to go to frasca food & wine for years and Aitch and C-Dawg provided the perfect excuse for me to scoot out to Boulder, Colorado for a short weekend eat-away. Besides being the two smartest people I’ll ever meet, […]

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review: channeling pierre koffmann…

Pasture Raised Beef Duo niche (St. Louis, Missouri) I’m imposing a brief intermission on my eating tour of Europe and taking you to a more humble location, one closer to where I live. Gerard Craft opened niche, a small restaurant in St. Louis’s historic Benton Park neighborhood, in 2005. Embracing the farm, he’s turned the […]

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review: channeling pierre koffmann…

Pasture Raised Beef Duo niche (St. Louis, Missouri) I’m imposing a brief intermission on my eating tour of Europe and taking you to a more humble location, one closer to where I live. Gerard Craft opened niche, a small restaurant in St. Louis’s historic Benton Park neighborhood, in 2005. Embracing the farm, he’s turned the […]

Continue

review: a frosty blossom..

Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]

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review: a frosty blossom..

Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]

Continue

review: m to the g…

“My former cell mate had no teeth!” The cry went up from the deuce in the corner, followed by a giggle. The soundtrack at all 15 tables stopped. *Crickets* Ugh. The decibel count and nasal frequency was unmistakable. She (yes, she) was clearly from my neck of the woods. The four of us Yankees hunkered […]

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review: m to the g…

“My former cell mate had no teeth!” The cry went up from the deuce in the corner, followed by a giggle. The soundtrack at all 15 tables stopped. *Crickets* Ugh. The decibel count and nasal frequency was unmistakable. She (yes, she) was clearly from my neck of the woods. The four of us Yankees hunkered […]

Continue

review: high fidelity…

Mazzancolle Cotto in Bianco The River Cafe I was staring down unwanted reservations at Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley when I, with the help of Food Snob, secured last minute seats at The River Café. Sorry Chef Wareing, do try to get a better buzz going the next time I swing by. I rang up […]

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review: high fidelity…

Mazzancolle Cotto in Bianco The River Cafe I was staring down unwanted reservations at Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley when I, with the help of Food Snob, secured last minute seats at The River Café. Sorry Chef Wareing, do try to get a better buzz going the next time I swing by. I rang up […]

Continue

review: of blood and wonder…

Amuse Bouche l’Ambassade de l’Ile There is a sinister sleekness to l’Ambassade de l’Ile, the recently opened outpost to l’Auberge de l’Ile, a 2 Michelin-star restaurant in Lyon, France. There are shadows and dark corners. There are distorted silhouettes cast by underlit fixtures. Angles and mirrors make you doubt your presence. And there are voyeuristic […]

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review: of blood and wonder…

Amuse Bouche l’Ambassade de l’Ile There is a sinister sleekness to l’Ambassade de l’Ile, the recently opened outpost to l’Auberge de l’Ile, a 2 Michelin-star restaurant in Lyon, France. There are shadows and dark corners. There are distorted silhouettes cast by underlit fixtures. Angles and mirrors make you doubt your presence. And there are voyeuristic […]

Continue