Category: restaurant review

review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

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review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

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review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

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review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

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review: apotheosis interruptus…

Cannoli Sundae Pulino’s, New York Say you arrive into New York late, and the taxi stand has a tail that coils halfway to New Jersey. There is no way you’re going to get into Manhattan before 11 p.m., when most restaurant kitchens close. And suppose that you haven’t had dinner yet. Where do you go […]

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review: apotheosis interruptus…

Cannoli Sundae Pulino’s, New York Say you arrive into New York late, and the taxi stand has a tail that coils halfway to New Jersey. There is no way you’re going to get into Manhattan before 11 p.m., when most restaurant kitchens close. And suppose that you haven’t had dinner yet. Where do you go […]

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review: damn the torpedoes…

Abalone Aqua, San Francisco This review is moot.  You’ll see why in a second. To the best of my ability, a timeline: 1991: Aqua opened at 252 California Street in San Francisco with George Morrone as the executive chef. 1993: Michael Mina took the reins in the kitchen as executive chef.  He also assumed ownership […]

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review: damn the torpedoes…

Abalone Aqua, San Francisco This review is moot.  You’ll see why in a second. To the best of my ability, a timeline: 1991: Aqua opened at 252 California Street in San Francisco with George Morrone as the executive chef. 1993: Michael Mina took the reins in the kitchen as executive chef.  He also assumed ownership […]

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review: remembrance of things past…

Spaghetti Nero Cafe Boulud, New York It doesn’t happen often.  In fact, it happens so rarely that you sometimes can’t recall the last time it happened. But once in a few hundred meals or so, a dining experience knocks you off your duff and leaves you breathless. I can tell you the last time this […]

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review: remembrance of things past…

Spaghetti Nero Cafe Boulud, New York It doesn’t happen often.  In fact, it happens so rarely that you sometimes can’t recall the last time it happened. But once in a few hundred meals or so, a dining experience knocks you off your duff and leaves you breathless. I can tell you the last time this […]

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review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

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review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

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review: lovely…

Grilled Bamboo Kyoya, New York My friend Sneakeater is spot on in describing kyoya as “lovely.” The servers are adorable. The space is soothing. The ceramic serviceware is beautiful.  And the food, which is very good, leaves you feeling charmed and peaceful. Tucked away below street level in a townhouse in the East Village, kyoya […]

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review: lovely…

Grilled Bamboo Kyoya, New York My friend Sneakeater is spot on in describing kyoya as “lovely.” The servers are adorable. The space is soothing. The ceramic serviceware is beautiful.  And the food, which is very good, leaves you feeling charmed and peaceful. Tucked away below street level in a townhouse in the East Village, kyoya […]

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review: it kills me…

La Grenouille, New York I can imagine Holden Caulfield eating at la Grenouille as an adult, his gawkishly tall frame folded into the tiny back corner banquette – back near the kitchen door. His internal soundtrack would register a complaint about being seated back there, back where no one cares. If he weren’t so yellow, […]

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review: it kills me…

La Grenouille, New York I can imagine Holden Caulfield eating at la Grenouille as an adult, his gawkishly tall frame folded into the tiny back corner banquette – back near the kitchen door. His internal soundtrack would register a complaint about being seated back there, back where no one cares. If he weren’t so yellow, […]

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review: umlaut…

Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar, New York My parents just emailed a couple of days ago from Wien to tell me that they saw Manon at the Staatsoper.  My eyes turned green. You know, the last time I was at the Staatsoper, I had to endure a tortured, post-modern rendition of Elektra in nose-bleed SRO. A […]

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review: umlaut…

Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar, New York My parents just emailed a couple of days ago from Wien to tell me that they saw Manon at the Staatsoper.  My eyes turned green. You know, the last time I was at the Staatsoper, I had to endure a tortured, post-modern rendition of Elektra in nose-bleed SRO. A […]

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review: it takes a village…

Looking up at the counter seating aldea, New York Recently, on the one-year anniversary of aldea’s opening, the chef and owner, George Mendes, tweeted, “Never thought 1 year ago that rice would be our signature dish.” Mendes’s “Arroz de Pato” – a paella stained with pimenton and saffron and enriched with duck stock – is […]

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review: it takes a village…

Looking up at the counter seating aldea, New York Recently, on the one-year anniversary of aldea’s opening, the chef and owner, George Mendes, tweeted, “Never thought 1 year ago that rice would be our signature dish.” Mendes’s “Arroz de Pato” – a paella stained with pimenton and saffron and enriched with duck stock – is […]

Continue