Category: michelin

review: palace of tongues and durian…

Duck Tongues in Abalone Sauce Summer Palace, Hong Kong An impromptu pay-back lunch found a friend and me deliberating on a convenient, yet pleasing place for a quick lunch on my last day in Hong Kong. Lung King Heen, where I had a pretty successful meal the week before, was fully booked. And Yan Toh […]

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review: palace of tongues and durian…

Duck Tongues in Abalone Sauce Summer Palace, Hong Kong An impromptu pay-back lunch found a friend and me deliberating on a convenient, yet pleasing place for a quick lunch on my last day in Hong Kong. Lung King Heen, where I had a pretty successful meal the week before, was fully booked. And Yan Toh […]

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travel: ennead…

Night view from Victoria Peak Hong Kong I just returned from having nine meals in city of nine dragons. Since the Handover in 1997, when I last lived and worked in Hong Kong, a lot has changed.  The city’s skyline has spread; it’s now wider and taller. The I(nternational)F(inancial)C(enter), which was still a glimmer in […]

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travel: ennead…

Night view from Victoria Peak Hong Kong I just returned from having nine meals in city of nine dragons. Since the Handover in 1997, when I last lived and worked in Hong Kong, a lot has changed.  The city’s skyline has spread; it’s now wider and taller. The I(nternational)F(inancial)C(enter), which was still a glimmer in […]

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review: l’art pour l’art…

Black Bean Tofu Bar Charlie, Las Vegas, Nevada Charlie Trotter may have been one of the first big named chefs to arrive on the Las Vegas scene.  He had a restaurant in the MGM Grand years ago. Supposedly, the food was great.  So great, in fact, that it kept the big whales away from the […]

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review: l’art pour l’art…

Black Bean Tofu Bar Charlie, Las Vegas, Nevada Charlie Trotter may have been one of the first big named chefs to arrive on the Las Vegas scene.  He had a restaurant in the MGM Grand years ago. Supposedly, the food was great.  So great, in fact, that it kept the big whales away from the […]

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review: quand je découvre un goût…

Le “Sandwich” Tiede á la Truffe Fraîche Michel Rostang, Paris, France Sometimes all a boy wants is something familiar, sturdy, and steadying. Michel Rostang fit the bill. Julien of Julot les Pinceaux was instrumental in my decision to add Michel Rostang to my roster of dinners in Paris. I had expressed a desire to have […]

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review: quand je découvre un goût…

Le “Sandwich” Tiede á la Truffe Fraîche Michel Rostang, Paris, France Sometimes all a boy wants is something familiar, sturdy, and steadying. Michel Rostang fit the bill. Julien of Julot les Pinceaux was instrumental in my decision to add Michel Rostang to my roster of dinners in Paris. I had expressed a desire to have […]

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review: multi-nippled…

2nd Course: La Tomate Joël Robuchon at The Mansion Las Vegas, Nevada Get your mind out of the gutter.  This is a family show. It’s a metaphor, silly, for the manifold outlets from which the dining elite can suckle Joël Robuchon’s genius. Or, in the case of a clear tomato consommé gelatin dotted with mozzarella, […]

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review: multi-nippled…

2nd Course: La Tomate Joël Robuchon at The Mansion Las Vegas, Nevada Get your mind out of the gutter.  This is a family show. It’s a metaphor, silly, for the manifold outlets from which the dining elite can suckle Joël Robuchon’s genius. Or, in the case of a clear tomato consommé gelatin dotted with mozzarella, […]

Continue

travel: lost wages…

Trevi Fountain Forum Shops at Caesar’s Palace The temperature had already reached 90 degrees when I headed out for my run at 6:30 a.m. In a three-mile stretch, I passed the Doge’s palace, the Bridge of Sighs, the Rialto Bridge, the Trevi Fountain, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Brooklyn Bridge, the Empire […]

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travel: lost wages…

Trevi Fountain Forum Shops at Caesar’s Palace The temperature had already reached 90 degrees when I headed out for my run at 6:30 a.m. In a three-mile stretch, I passed the Doge’s palace, the Bridge of Sighs, the Rialto Bridge, the Trevi Fountain, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Brooklyn Bridge, the Empire […]

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eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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review: through the looking glass..

Blanc de Turbot Ledoyen, Paris, France From the first time I read about it years ago to the very last crumb of my meal there in December of 2008, Pavillon Ledoyen has struck me as a curiously magical place. Like Wonderland, the unassuming Michelin three-star restaurant seems to defy many odds and good senses. Nothing […]

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review: through the looking glass..

Blanc de Turbot Ledoyen, Paris, France From the first time I read about it years ago to the very last crumb of my meal there in December of 2008, Pavillon Ledoyen has struck me as a curiously magical place. Like Wonderland, the unassuming Michelin three-star restaurant seems to defy many odds and good senses. Nothing […]

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review: king of the hill…

Sea Bream Manresa, Los Gatos, California Three years ago, I stumbled upon greatness. Manresa opened a chapter to an era and a process. Last month, I returned and found that process not only undisturbed, but evolved, advanced, and flourishing within its own world. It was great to return to the place where so much for […]

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review: king of the hill…

Sea Bream Manresa, Los Gatos, California Three years ago, I stumbled upon greatness. Manresa opened a chapter to an era and a process. Last month, I returned and found that process not only undisturbed, but evolved, advanced, and flourishing within its own world. It was great to return to the place where so much for […]

Continue

review: diva in white mourning…

masa New York, New York Of masa, the once-most expensive restaurant in the U.S., the few I know who have eaten there have said: save your money and go to Japan instead. Having (finally) eaten at masa, I can’t say I would disagree with that advice. This tiny temple of Japanese gastronomy was the talk […]

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review: diva in white mourning…

masa New York, New York Of masa, the once-most expensive restaurant in the U.S., the few I know who have eaten there have said: save your money and go to Japan instead. Having (finally) eaten at masa, I can’t say I would disagree with that advice. This tiny temple of Japanese gastronomy was the talk […]

Continue