review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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review: from the dragon’s perch…

Steamed Garoupa Fillet with Morels Lung King Heen, Hong Kong Pleased to let me arrange our entire eating itinerary, my friend Mr. RBI flew all the way from the U.S. just to eat with me during my first three days of my trip to Hong Kong. It was his first time in Asia. Being a […]

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review: from the dragon’s perch…

Steamed Garoupa Fillet with Morels Lung King Heen, Hong Kong Pleased to let me arrange our entire eating itinerary, my friend Mr. RBI flew all the way from the U.S. just to eat with me during my first three days of my trip to Hong Kong. It was his first time in Asia. Being a […]

Continue

review: a preternatural prenatal yen…

“Porcupine” Milk Custard Buns Tim’s Kitchen, Macau If you’re the type that reads this blog with any regularity, then it won’t take much to convince you that there are some people who are born with a higher (indeed, abnormal) affinity toward food. In fact, I’m a strong believer that this predisposition is prenatal. To wit: […]

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review: a preternatural prenatal yen…

“Porcupine” Milk Custard Buns Tim’s Kitchen, Macau If you’re the type that reads this blog with any regularity, then it won’t take much to convince you that there are some people who are born with a higher (indeed, abnormal) affinity toward food. In fact, I’m a strong believer that this predisposition is prenatal. To wit: […]

Continue

review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

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review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

Continue

review: impresario of sauce…

Alex at the Wynn Las Vegas, Nevada I have a friend who works in the kitchen at Alex at the Wynn. He had been begging me to visit for quite some time. Truth be told, I wasn’t really hot on Alex before I went. The food seemed pro forma in the reading. I mean, what […]

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review: impresario of sauce…

Alex at the Wynn Las Vegas, Nevada I have a friend who works in the kitchen at Alex at the Wynn. He had been begging me to visit for quite some time. Truth be told, I wasn’t really hot on Alex before I went. The food seemed pro forma in the reading. I mean, what […]

Continue

review: palace of tongues and durian…

Duck Tongues in Abalone Sauce Summer Palace, Hong Kong An impromptu pay-back lunch found a friend and me deliberating on a convenient, yet pleasing place for a quick lunch on my last day in Hong Kong. Lung King Heen, where I had a pretty successful meal the week before, was fully booked. And Yan Toh […]

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review: palace of tongues and durian…

Duck Tongues in Abalone Sauce Summer Palace, Hong Kong An impromptu pay-back lunch found a friend and me deliberating on a convenient, yet pleasing place for a quick lunch on my last day in Hong Kong. Lung King Heen, where I had a pretty successful meal the week before, was fully booked. And Yan Toh […]

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travel: ennead…

Night view from Victoria Peak Hong Kong I just returned from having nine meals in city of nine dragons. Since the Handover in 1997, when I last lived and worked in Hong Kong, a lot has changed.  The city’s skyline has spread; it’s now wider and taller. The I(nternational)F(inancial)C(enter), which was still a glimmer in […]

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travel: ennead…

Night view from Victoria Peak Hong Kong I just returned from having nine meals in city of nine dragons. Since the Handover in 1997, when I last lived and worked in Hong Kong, a lot has changed.  The city’s skyline has spread; it’s now wider and taller. The I(nternational)F(inancial)C(enter), which was still a glimmer in […]

Continue

review: l’art pour l’art…

Black Bean Tofu Bar Charlie, Las Vegas, Nevada Charlie Trotter may have been one of the first big named chefs to arrive on the Las Vegas scene.  He had a restaurant in the MGM Grand years ago. Supposedly, the food was great.  So great, in fact, that it kept the big whales away from the […]

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review: l’art pour l’art…

Black Bean Tofu Bar Charlie, Las Vegas, Nevada Charlie Trotter may have been one of the first big named chefs to arrive on the Las Vegas scene.  He had a restaurant in the MGM Grand years ago. Supposedly, the food was great.  So great, in fact, that it kept the big whales away from the […]

Continue

review: quand je découvre un goût…

Le “Sandwich” Tiede á la Truffe Fraîche Michel Rostang, Paris, France Sometimes all a boy wants is something familiar, sturdy, and steadying. Michel Rostang fit the bill. Julien of Julot les Pinceaux was instrumental in my decision to add Michel Rostang to my roster of dinners in Paris. I had expressed a desire to have […]

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review: quand je découvre un goût…

Le “Sandwich” Tiede á la Truffe Fraîche Michel Rostang, Paris, France Sometimes all a boy wants is something familiar, sturdy, and steadying. Michel Rostang fit the bill. Julien of Julot les Pinceaux was instrumental in my decision to add Michel Rostang to my roster of dinners in Paris. I had expressed a desire to have […]

Continue