Category: michelin

review: no echo…

“Pink Grapefruit” coi, San Francisco, California In 2006, I asked David Kinch of Manresa which restaurants were moving and shaking in the Bay Area. He told me about a small, fledgling start-up that a former Manresa cook was opening that week. That restaurant was coi. The chef-patron, as you probably know, is Daniel Patterson. Regrettably, […]

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review: no echo…

“Pink Grapefruit” coi, San Francisco, California In 2006, I asked David Kinch of Manresa which restaurants were moving and shaking in the Bay Area. He told me about a small, fledgling start-up that a former Manresa cook was opening that week. That restaurant was coi. The chef-patron, as you probably know, is Daniel Patterson. Regrettably, […]

Continue

review: two-star ascendant…

Saddle of Venison le Bristol, Paris, France I had had a good run. But sadly, my luxurious, two-week romp through restaurants in the U.K. and France was coming to an end.  It was my last night in Paris. Four years ago, I struck up a conversation with my server at le Cinq, who seemed quite […]

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review: two-star ascendant…

Saddle of Venison le Bristol, Paris, France I had had a good run. But sadly, my luxurious, two-week romp through restaurants in the U.K. and France was coming to an end.  It was my last night in Paris. Four years ago, I struck up a conversation with my server at le Cinq, who seemed quite […]

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review: put it on vibrate, please…

4th Course: Fresh Washington State Black Cod Bouley, New York When I last left Bouley in March, I said to my dining companions that I’d never go back on my dime. I didn’t have to. You can read about how this third visit to Bouley came about over HERE. Doubtful I’d return to New York […]

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review: put it on vibrate, please…

4th Course: Fresh Washington State Black Cod Bouley, New York When I last left Bouley in March, I said to my dining companions that I’d never go back on my dime. I didn’t have to. You can read about how this third visit to Bouley came about over HERE. Doubtful I’d return to New York […]

Continue

review: comedy of errors…

1st Course: Porcini Flan Bouley, New York I’ve been to Bouley thrice now. The first time I went was in 2007, when the restaurant resided in that sumptuously red, arched space at 120 West Broadway where Bouley Bakery is now. To this day, I count it as one of the most beautiful dining rooms I’ve […]

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review: comedy of errors…

1st Course: Porcini Flan Bouley, New York I’ve been to Bouley thrice now. The first time I went was in 2007, when the restaurant resided in that sumptuously red, arched space at 120 West Broadway where Bouley Bakery is now. To this day, I count it as one of the most beautiful dining rooms I’ve […]

Continue

review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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review: from the dragon’s perch…

Steamed Garoupa Fillet with Morels Lung King Heen, Hong Kong Pleased to let me arrange our entire eating itinerary, my friend Mr. RBI flew all the way from the U.S. just to eat with me during my first three days of my trip to Hong Kong. It was his first time in Asia. Being a […]

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review: from the dragon’s perch…

Steamed Garoupa Fillet with Morels Lung King Heen, Hong Kong Pleased to let me arrange our entire eating itinerary, my friend Mr. RBI flew all the way from the U.S. just to eat with me during my first three days of my trip to Hong Kong. It was his first time in Asia. Being a […]

Continue

review: a preternatural prenatal yen…

“Porcupine” Milk Custard Buns Tim’s Kitchen, Macau If you’re the type that reads this blog with any regularity, then it won’t take much to convince you that there are some people who are born with a higher (indeed, abnormal) affinity toward food. In fact, I’m a strong believer that this predisposition is prenatal. To wit: […]

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review: a preternatural prenatal yen…

“Porcupine” Milk Custard Buns Tim’s Kitchen, Macau If you’re the type that reads this blog with any regularity, then it won’t take much to convince you that there are some people who are born with a higher (indeed, abnormal) affinity toward food. In fact, I’m a strong believer that this predisposition is prenatal. To wit: […]

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review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

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review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

Continue

review: impresario of sauce…

Alex at the Wynn Las Vegas, Nevada I have a friend who works in the kitchen at Alex at the Wynn. He had been begging me to visit for quite some time. Truth be told, I wasn’t really hot on Alex before I went. The food seemed pro forma in the reading. I mean, what […]

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review: impresario of sauce…

Alex at the Wynn Las Vegas, Nevada I have a friend who works in the kitchen at Alex at the Wynn. He had been begging me to visit for quite some time. Truth be told, I wasn’t really hot on Alex before I went. The food seemed pro forma in the reading. I mean, what […]

Continue