Category: dessert

rumination 5: the last supper conundrum…

Mike Czyzewski over at The Budget College Cook blog emailed me with three well-traversed questions that, collectively, comprise what I call the “last supper” conundrum.  You can read about his final meal, and others’, including mine, on his blog. The task is preposterous.  One meal?  Are you serious?  I can’t even make up my mind […]

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rumination 5: the last supper conundrum…

Mike Czyzewski over at The Budget College Cook blog emailed me with three well-traversed questions that, collectively, comprise what I call the “last supper” conundrum.  You can read about his final meal, and others’, including mine, on his blog. The task is preposterous.  One meal?  Are you serious?  I can’t even make up my mind […]

Continue

review: put it on vibrate, please…

4th Course: Fresh Washington State Black Cod Bouley, New York When I last left Bouley in March, I said to my dining companions that I’d never go back on my dime. I didn’t have to. You can read about how this third visit to Bouley came about over HERE. Doubtful I’d return to New York […]

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review: put it on vibrate, please…

4th Course: Fresh Washington State Black Cod Bouley, New York When I last left Bouley in March, I said to my dining companions that I’d never go back on my dime. I didn’t have to. You can read about how this third visit to Bouley came about over HERE. Doubtful I’d return to New York […]

Continue

review: comedy of errors…

1st Course: Porcini Flan Bouley, New York I’ve been to Bouley thrice now. The first time I went was in 2007, when the restaurant resided in that sumptuously red, arched space at 120 West Broadway where Bouley Bakery is now. To this day, I count it as one of the most beautiful dining rooms I’ve […]

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review: comedy of errors…

1st Course: Porcini Flan Bouley, New York I’ve been to Bouley thrice now. The first time I went was in 2007, when the restaurant resided in that sumptuously red, arched space at 120 West Broadway where Bouley Bakery is now. To this day, I count it as one of the most beautiful dining rooms I’ve […]

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review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: gnawing on brains…

Tea-Smoked Bresse Pigeon Man Wah, Hong Kong If the little dish of fried walnuts was the fantastic opener to our meal at Man Wah, the Kung Po Bean Curd (HK$110) was the headliner. The tumble of fluffy cubes of tofu – thinly glazed with a crisp, fried sheen of spicy sauce and commingled with blistered […]

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review: gnawing on brains…

Tea-Smoked Bresse Pigeon Man Wah, Hong Kong If the little dish of fried walnuts was the fantastic opener to our meal at Man Wah, the Kung Po Bean Curd (HK$110) was the headliner. The tumble of fluffy cubes of tofu – thinly glazed with a crisp, fried sheen of spicy sauce and commingled with blistered […]

Continue

review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

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review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

Continue

review: corkage…

Compressed Peaches and Strawberries Bouchon, Las Vegas, Nevada I haven’t been to the original one in Napa (and doubt I’ll ever go – there are too many other temptations in that region), and I refuse to eat under the “SAMSUNG” sign in the Time Warner Center. So, sadly, Las Vegas is the only place I’d […]

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review: corkage…

Compressed Peaches and Strawberries Bouchon, Las Vegas, Nevada I haven’t been to the original one in Napa (and doubt I’ll ever go – there are too many other temptations in that region), and I refuse to eat under the “SAMSUNG” sign in the Time Warner Center. So, sadly, Las Vegas is the only place I’d […]

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review: multi-nippled…

2nd Course: La Tomate Joël Robuchon at The Mansion Las Vegas, Nevada Get your mind out of the gutter.  This is a family show. It’s a metaphor, silly, for the manifold outlets from which the dining elite can suckle Joël Robuchon’s genius. Or, in the case of a clear tomato consommé gelatin dotted with mozzarella, […]

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review: multi-nippled…

2nd Course: La Tomate Joël Robuchon at The Mansion Las Vegas, Nevada Get your mind out of the gutter.  This is a family show. It’s a metaphor, silly, for the manifold outlets from which the dining elite can suckle Joël Robuchon’s genius. Or, in the case of a clear tomato consommé gelatin dotted with mozzarella, […]

Continue

eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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