Category: dessert

review: blade runner…

CityZen Mandarin Oriental, Washington, D.C. I have very good instincts about restaurants. They work for me, anyway. I’d say that about 80% my restaurant experiences match my expectations. I tend to walk in with a glass slightly less than half-empty and hope that the restaurant can fill ‘er up.  If it doesn’t, there’s not a […]

Continue

review: blade runner…

CityZen Mandarin Oriental, Washington, D.C. I have very good instincts about restaurants. They work for me, anyway. I’d say that about 80% my restaurant experiences match my expectations. I tend to walk in with a glass slightly less than half-empty and hope that the restaurant can fill ‘er up.  If it doesn’t, there’s not a […]

Continue

review: pan hellenic…

komi, Washington, D.C. It was the year that April Bloomfield brought the gastro pub to the West Village, Dan Barber opened a restaurant in a stone barn in Pocantico Hills, and Grant Achatz cast a wrinkle in the fabric of modern cuisine with an archaic symbol. Joël Robuchon landed in Las Vegas at The Mansion, […]

Continue

review: pan hellenic…

komi, Washington, D.C. It was the year that April Bloomfield brought the gastro pub to the West Village, Dan Barber opened a restaurant in a stone barn in Pocantico Hills, and Grant Achatz cast a wrinkle in the fabric of modern cuisine with an archaic symbol. Joël Robuchon landed in Las Vegas at The Mansion, […]

Continue

review: a tropical umbrella…

Mango-Anchovy Ravioli Cafe Atlantico, Washington, D.C. I can’t believe that I lived in Washington, D.C. and never once stepped foot in Cafe Atlantico. Jaleo, yes.  But never Cafe Atlantico. Neither did I visit Jose Andres’s Mediterranean “mezze” restaurant, Zaytinya, which opened shortly before I moved away, or minibar, which always seemed (and still seems) like […]

Continue

review: a tropical umbrella…

Mango-Anchovy Ravioli Cafe Atlantico, Washington, D.C. I can’t believe that I lived in Washington, D.C. and never once stepped foot in Cafe Atlantico. Jaleo, yes.  But never Cafe Atlantico. Neither did I visit Jose Andres’s Mediterranean “mezze” restaurant, Zaytinya, which opened shortly before I moved away, or minibar, which always seemed (and still seems) like […]

Continue

review: happy in the kitchen…

Ahi Tuna Burger Central Michel Richard, Washington, D.C. The temperature was dropping rapidly.  In the hour it took to get from the airport to the hotel and from the hotel to lunch, the thermometer trimmed itself of nearly twenty degrees.  Cold rain might turn into snow, they said.  Freezing temperatures were expected by early evening. […]

Continue

review: happy in the kitchen…

Ahi Tuna Burger Central Michel Richard, Washington, D.C. The temperature was dropping rapidly.  In the hour it took to get from the airport to the hotel and from the hotel to lunch, the thermometer trimmed itself of nearly twenty degrees.  Cold rain might turn into snow, they said.  Freezing temperatures were expected by early evening. […]

Continue

review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

Continue

review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

Continue

recipe: poteca…

Poteca It’s pronounced poh-TEE-tsah, according to my friend Mangeur. Poteca is a eastern European rolled yeast-based pastry layered with a slightly sweet nut filling. I’ve known a version called povitica, which is sold by a rather well-known company in my hometown called the Strawberry Hill Povitica Co. Their pastry comes in 2.5-pound loaf form and […]

Continue

recipe: poteca…

Poteca It’s pronounced poh-TEE-tsah, according to my friend Mangeur. Poteca is a eastern European rolled yeast-based pastry layered with a slightly sweet nut filling. I’ve known a version called povitica, which is sold by a rather well-known company in my hometown called the Strawberry Hill Povitica Co. Their pastry comes in 2.5-pound loaf form and […]

Continue

review: for the view…

Chocolate Souffle miX, Las Vegas It was mostly for the view that Cowboy and I ascended sixty-four floors of THEhotel at Mandalay Bay after gorging ourselves silly at Aburiya Raku. It was my last night in Sin City and I wanted a cheap thrill. At the top of THEhotel is miX, Michelin mogul Alain Ducasse’s […]

Continue

review: for the view…

Chocolate Souffle miX, Las Vegas It was mostly for the view that Cowboy and I ascended sixty-four floors of THEhotel at Mandalay Bay after gorging ourselves silly at Aburiya Raku. It was my last night in Sin City and I wanted a cheap thrill. At the top of THEhotel is miX, Michelin mogul Alain Ducasse’s […]

Continue

review: wild goose chase…

Preserved Eggs Yung Kee, Hong Kong Roasted geese, bronze and juicy, hang in the big picture windows at Yung Kee. They’re the restaurant’s calling card. And by some accounts, they’re the only reason to visit this aging institution on Wellington Street in Central, Hong Kong. It’s certainly not for their hospitality, from what I could […]

Continue

review: wild goose chase…

Preserved Eggs Yung Kee, Hong Kong Roasted geese, bronze and juicy, hang in the big picture windows at Yung Kee. They’re the restaurant’s calling card. And by some accounts, they’re the only reason to visit this aging institution on Wellington Street in Central, Hong Kong. It’s certainly not for their hospitality, from what I could […]

Continue

review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

Continue

review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

Continue

review: untethered…

Blue Hill at Stone Barns Pocantico Hills, New York On one side, you have those who would look at it and say, “It’s just a salad.” On the other side, you’ll find those who would argue, “It may be just a salad, but that’s not the point.” I have to admit, I expected more than […]

Continue

review: untethered…

Blue Hill at Stone Barns Pocantico Hills, New York On one side, you have those who would look at it and say, “It’s just a salad.” On the other side, you’ll find those who would argue, “It may be just a salad, but that’s not the point.” I have to admit, I expected more than […]

Continue