travel: second city…

~ When I left my twenties, I went to Chicago to mark the passing of that decade, and to welcome the next. In the five years since, I’ve kept the tradition, choosing a different city with each new birthday. In 2009, I celebrated in New York; in 2010, in Washington D.C.; and in 2011, Charleston. […]

Continue

travel: second city…

~ When I left my twenties, I went to Chicago to mark the passing of that decade, and to welcome the next. In the five years since, I’ve kept the tradition, choosing a different city with each new birthday. In 2009, I celebrated in New York; in 2010, in Washington D.C.; and in 2011, Charleston. […]

Continue

best of 2012: the restaurant edition…

~ The title of this blog post is misleading. Superlatives, like the word “best,” are dangerous.  They’re almost always misused for profit. I have been critical of lists that claim authority over the designation “the best in the world.”  The absurdity of such declarations was captured brilliantly in the movie Elf, when Buddy discovers the “world’s […]

Continue

best of 2012: the restaurant edition…

~ The title of this blog post is misleading. Superlatives, like the word “best,” are dangerous.  They’re almost always misused for profit. I have been critical of lists that claim authority over the designation “the best in the world.”  The absurdity of such declarations was captured brilliantly in the movie Elf, when Buddy discovers the “world’s […]

Continue

12 days: geese a-laying (merges)…

~ On the sixth of the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood, Christopher Kostow gave to me one of my favorite chefs in the country right now, Matthias Merges. Formerly the chef de cuisine of Charlie Trotters for more than a decade, Merges now owns his own restaurant, Yusho, in the Logan […]

Continue

12 days: geese a-laying (merges)…

~ On the sixth of the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood, Christopher Kostow gave to me one of my favorite chefs in the country right now, Matthias Merges. Formerly the chef de cuisine of Charlie Trotters for more than a decade, Merges now owns his own restaurant, Yusho, in the Logan […]

Continue

review: candles and cranes… (yusho)

– When Matthias Merges, who left Charlie Trotter’s last year after a decade and a half as its executive chef, opened Yusho in Chicago’s Avondale neighborhood (just north of Logan Square), I wasn’t surprised to see his peers flood social media outlets with congratulatory cheer. The enthusiasm for his new restaurant was unanimous, the compliments […]

Continue

review: candles and cranes… (yusho)

– When Matthias Merges, who left Charlie Trotter’s last year after a decade and a half as its executive chef, opened Yusho in Chicago’s Avondale neighborhood (just north of Logan Square), I wasn’t surprised to see his peers flood social media outlets with congratulatory cheer. The enthusiasm for his new restaurant was unanimous, the compliments […]

Continue