review: alone at the plancha… (rafa’s)

Some whelks, served cold with a side of garlicky vinaigrette. Espardenyes – those curiously striated cucumbers from the sea, tender with bounce and bite – langostas, gambas, chiparones, and a baby turbot not much larger than my hand, all grilled on the plancha. These are the simple pleasures of Rafa’s, an unassuming little eatery that has all but become […]

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review: alone at the plancha… (rafa’s)

Some whelks, served cold with a side of garlicky vinaigrette. Espardenyes – those curiously striated cucumbers from the sea, tender with bounce and bite – langostas, gambas, chiparones, and a baby turbot not much larger than my hand, all grilled on the plancha. These are the simple pleasures of Rafa’s, an unassuming little eatery that has all but become […]

Continue

review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

Continue

review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

Continue

photo of the week 31: portrait of a master…

I’m back on U.S. soil after three exciting weeks in Europe.  I’ll be posting about my meals and events in the coming days, but first, I want to recover a few tardy “photos of the week.” Here’s the first of a few:

Continue

photo of the week 31: portrait of a master…

I’m back on U.S. soil after three exciting weeks in Europe.  I’ll be posting about my meals and events in the coming days, but first, I want to recover a few tardy “photos of the week.” Here’s the first of a few:

Continue