review: put it on vibrate, please…

4th Course: Fresh Washington State Black Cod Bouley, New York When I last left Bouley in March, I said to my dining companions that I’d never go back on my dime. I didn’t have to. You can read about how this third visit to Bouley came about over HERE. Doubtful I’d return to New York […]

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review: put it on vibrate, please…

4th Course: Fresh Washington State Black Cod Bouley, New York When I last left Bouley in March, I said to my dining companions that I’d never go back on my dime. I didn’t have to. You can read about how this third visit to Bouley came about over HERE. Doubtful I’d return to New York […]

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review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

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review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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review: diva in white mourning…

masa New York, New York Of masa, the once-most expensive restaurant in the U.S., the few I know who have eaten there have said: save your money and go to Japan instead. Having (finally) eaten at masa, I can’t say I would disagree with that advice. This tiny temple of Japanese gastronomy was the talk […]

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review: diva in white mourning…

masa New York, New York Of masa, the once-most expensive restaurant in the U.S., the few I know who have eaten there have said: save your money and go to Japan instead. Having (finally) eaten at masa, I can’t say I would disagree with that advice. This tiny temple of Japanese gastronomy was the talk […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: a different side of flavor…

Corton New York, New York Every year around this time, my postman has the honor of announcing Food + Wine’s Best New Chefs. Yes, little pleasures, tiny treasures. And so it was, yesterday, after a lengthy and long-overdue date with my running shoes, I returned to my corner of the world to find the latest […]

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review: a different side of flavor…

Corton New York, New York Every year around this time, my postman has the honor of announcing Food + Wine’s Best New Chefs. Yes, little pleasures, tiny treasures. And so it was, yesterday, after a lengthy and long-overdue date with my running shoes, I returned to my corner of the world to find the latest […]

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yippy skippy…

alinea Cookbook By Grant Achatz I’ve been a busy boy. In the recent months, I’ve been traveling quite a bit (and the end does not seem near), which has flung me far from the kitchen.  I miss it. Though I haven’t had time to cook, don’t think I’ve stopped reading recipes. No, I haven’t quite […]

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yippy skippy…

alinea Cookbook By Grant Achatz I’ve been a busy boy. In the recent months, I’ve been traveling quite a bit (and the end does not seem near), which has flung me far from the kitchen.  I miss it. Though I haven’t had time to cook, don’t think I’ve stopped reading recipes. No, I haven’t quite […]

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review: class act…

Salmon Cornets per se, New York I bet you know what this picture heralds. Was it was transcendent? No. Was it life-altering? No. But, everything was technically flawless, which is more than I can say for my previous meals at both per se, which I visited in 2006 and The French Laundry, which I visited […]

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review: class act…

Salmon Cornets per se, New York I bet you know what this picture heralds. Was it was transcendent? No. Was it life-altering? No. But, everything was technically flawless, which is more than I can say for my previous meals at both per se, which I visited in 2006 and The French Laundry, which I visited […]

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review: solid and steady…

Café Boulud, New York I was trying to not eat. But, that didn’t work. So, then, I thought I could just eat light. Yeah, that didn’t work either. Despite the fact that I had a reservation at per se that evening, I tempted myself into having lunch at Café Boulud.  A couple of friends who […]

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review: solid and steady…

Café Boulud, New York I was trying to not eat. But, that didn’t work. So, then, I thought I could just eat light. Yeah, that didn’t work either. Despite the fact that I had a reservation at per se that evening, I tempted myself into having lunch at Café Boulud.  A couple of friends who […]

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review: goddess…

dévi, New York Every time I utter the word “dévi,” peoples’ eyes light up. Then, they glaze over and roll into the back of their heads in a moment of nostalgic ecstasy. When they recover, they inevitably make some enthusiastic exclamation followed by, “It’s *very* good Indian food.” I like *very* good Indian food. But, […]

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review: goddess…

dévi, New York Every time I utter the word “dévi,” peoples’ eyes light up. Then, they glaze over and roll into the back of their heads in a moment of nostalgic ecstasy. When they recover, they inevitably make some enthusiastic exclamation followed by, “It’s *very* good Indian food.” I like *very* good Indian food. But, […]

Continue