Tag: new york

photo of the week 22: retro beehive…

Since he rarely gets out of the kitchen, a chef recently told me that he wished I took more shots of restaurant interiors. Having traveled the world on a plate through my food photographs, he said he wanted a better sense of setting; to see how other restaurants were configured, outfitted, and finished. The chef’s […]

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photo of the week 22: retro beehive…

Since he rarely gets out of the kitchen, a chef recently told me that he wished I took more shots of restaurant interiors. Having traveled the world on a plate through my food photographs, he said he wanted a better sense of setting; to see how other restaurants were configured, outfitted, and finished. The chef’s […]

Continue

review: embarrassment of riches…

Café Boulud, New York, New York Chanel No. 5 in the dining room, Yemen No. 10 in the spice pantry. This is the dichotomy you’ll find at Café Boulud. Yeah, yeah, I know, I was just there. That was Gavin Kaysen’s reaction too when he saw my name pop up on the books.* A return? […]

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review: embarrassment of riches…

Café Boulud, New York, New York Chanel No. 5 in the dining room, Yemen No. 10 in the spice pantry. This is the dichotomy you’ll find at Café Boulud. Yeah, yeah, I know, I was just there. That was Gavin Kaysen’s reaction too when he saw my name pop up on the books.* A return? […]

Continue

review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

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review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

Continue

review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

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review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

Continue

travel: smoke, with a chance of downpour…

Big Apple BBQ Block Party Fast Pass, New York, New York As an out-of-towner, you really shouldn’t sleep when you’re in New York City.  It’s a waste of time.  Think of what you might be missing, all the things you could do that you normally wouldn’t. For example, consider having dinner at midnight, a scandalously […]

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travel: smoke, with a chance of downpour…

Big Apple BBQ Block Party Fast Pass, New York, New York As an out-of-towner, you really shouldn’t sleep when you’re in New York City.  It’s a waste of time.  Think of what you might be missing, all the things you could do that you normally wouldn’t. For example, consider having dinner at midnight, a scandalously […]

Continue

review: remembrance of things past…

Spaghetti Nero Cafe Boulud, New York It doesn’t happen often.  In fact, it happens so rarely that you sometimes can’t recall the last time it happened. But once in a few hundred meals or so, a dining experience knocks you off your duff and leaves you breathless. I can tell you the last time this […]

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review: remembrance of things past…

Spaghetti Nero Cafe Boulud, New York It doesn’t happen often.  In fact, it happens so rarely that you sometimes can’t recall the last time it happened. But once in a few hundred meals or so, a dining experience knocks you off your duff and leaves you breathless. I can tell you the last time this […]

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review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

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review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

Continue

review: lovely…

Grilled Bamboo Kyoya, New York My friend Sneakeater is spot on in describing kyoya as “lovely.” The servers are adorable. The space is soothing. The ceramic serviceware is beautiful.  And the food, which is very good, leaves you feeling charmed and peaceful. Tucked away below street level in a townhouse in the East Village, kyoya […]

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review: lovely…

Grilled Bamboo Kyoya, New York My friend Sneakeater is spot on in describing kyoya as “lovely.” The servers are adorable. The space is soothing. The ceramic serviceware is beautiful.  And the food, which is very good, leaves you feeling charmed and peaceful. Tucked away below street level in a townhouse in the East Village, kyoya […]

Continue

review: it kills me…

La Grenouille, New York I can imagine Holden Caulfield eating at la Grenouille as an adult, his gawkishly tall frame folded into the tiny back corner banquette – back near the kitchen door. His internal soundtrack would register a complaint about being seated back there, back where no one cares. If he weren’t so yellow, […]

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review: it kills me…

La Grenouille, New York I can imagine Holden Caulfield eating at la Grenouille as an adult, his gawkishly tall frame folded into the tiny back corner banquette – back near the kitchen door. His internal soundtrack would register a complaint about being seated back there, back where no one cares. If he weren’t so yellow, […]

Continue

review: umlaut…

Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar, New York My parents just emailed a couple of days ago from Wien to tell me that they saw Manon at the Staatsoper.  My eyes turned green. You know, the last time I was at the Staatsoper, I had to endure a tortured, post-modern rendition of Elektra in nose-bleed SRO. A […]

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review: umlaut…

Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar, New York My parents just emailed a couple of days ago from Wien to tell me that they saw Manon at the Staatsoper.  My eyes turned green. You know, the last time I was at the Staatsoper, I had to endure a tortured, post-modern rendition of Elektra in nose-bleed SRO. A […]

Continue