travel: in dazzling relief… (2019)

dinner: oui, chef…

“Chef.” That is the title afforded to every member of the staff in a gentleman’s kitchen. I recently had the honor and pleasure of being in the kitchen with four extraordinary gentlemen by the names of Bocuse, Boswell, Boulud, and Keller. Watching them orchestrate the “dinner of the decade” at Stella! was not only a […]

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dinner: oui, chef…

“Chef.” That is the title afforded to every member of the staff in a gentleman’s kitchen. I recently had the honor and pleasure of being in the kitchen with four extraordinary gentlemen by the names of Bocuse, Boswell, Boulud, and Keller. Watching them orchestrate the “dinner of the decade” at Stella! was not only a […]

Continue

review: imitated by many, but never duplicated…

There’s a surly fellow behind the counter at Central Grocery Co., I heard. In fact, I know someone who had such a terrible experience with him that she vowed she’d never go back (and she hasn’t). Well, I didn’t get to the meet the muffuletta Nazi on my latest trip to New Orleans. Given all […]

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review: imitated by many, but never duplicated…

There’s a surly fellow behind the counter at Central Grocery Co., I heard. In fact, I know someone who had such a terrible experience with him that she vowed she’d never go back (and she hasn’t). Well, I didn’t get to the meet the muffuletta Nazi on my latest trip to New Orleans. Given all […]

Continue

review: powder puff…

I’m not a Southerner, and I won’t claim to be an expert on Southern food. So I can’t tell you how the beignets at Café du Monde measure up to what a Southerner expects from a beignet. But if the beignets at Café du Monde are representative of the Southern ideal (and, judging by their […]

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review: powder puff…

I’m not a Southerner, and I won’t claim to be an expert on Southern food. So I can’t tell you how the beignets at Café du Monde measure up to what a Southerner expects from a beignet. But if the beignets at Café du Monde are representative of the Southern ideal (and, judging by their […]

Continue

dinner: linger a little, laugh a lot…

What do you serve to Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse when they arrive together at your restaurant for dinner? That’s a question that Scott Boswell recently had to answer. The night before the B.I.R.D.S./Bocuse d’Or dinner, Chef Boswell and his team hosted a small, private dinner for the guest chefs, their sous chefs, […]

Continue

dinner: linger a little, laugh a lot…

What do you serve to Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse when they arrive together at your restaurant for dinner? That’s a question that Scott Boswell recently had to answer. The night before the B.I.R.D.S./Bocuse d’Or dinner, Chef Boswell and his team hosted a small, private dinner for the guest chefs, their sous chefs, […]

Continue

photo of the week 11: put your hands up…

It was 2 a.m. when Glen David Andrews and his band wrapped up their last set at d.b.a., a bar in the Faubourg Marigny district of New Orleans (wait, there’s one in New York too?). By 2:30, the house had pretty much cleared out (including a large group of chefs, which included Lee Anne Wong […]

Continue

photo of the week 11: put your hands up…

It was 2 a.m. when Glen David Andrews and his band wrapped up their last set at d.b.a., a bar in the Faubourg Marigny district of New Orleans (wait, there’s one in New York too?). By 2:30, the house had pretty much cleared out (including a large group of chefs, which included Lee Anne Wong […]

Continue

travel: stars in the dining room, legends in the kitchen…

Before I could unpack from San Francisco, I was re-stuffing my suitcases for New Orleans. The “dinner of the decade,” is how they billed it, and I had a seat. But before I get to the event (which will come in a subsequent post), first, a little back-story, which operates as both disclosure and a […]

Continue

travel: stars in the dining room, legends in the kitchen…

Before I could unpack from San Francisco, I was re-stuffing my suitcases for New Orleans. The “dinner of the decade,” is how they billed it, and I had a seat. But before I get to the event (which will come in a subsequent post), first, a little back-story, which operates as both disclosure and a […]

Continue

review: three sisters and a chef…

Brigtsen’s, New Orleans, Louisiana … walk into a bar. Kidding. Sandra, Rhonda, and Marna. Those are three names you should have in your pocket when you arrive at Brigtsen’s.* These three women opened the restaurant in 1986 with Marna’s husband, Frank Brigtsen. It was Marna’s night off on my recent visit to the restaurant.  But […]

Continue

review: three sisters and a chef…

Brigtsen’s, New Orleans, Louisiana … walk into a bar. Kidding. Sandra, Rhonda, and Marna. Those are three names you should have in your pocket when you arrive at Brigtsen’s.* These three women opened the restaurant in 1986 with Marna’s husband, Frank Brigtsen. It was Marna’s night off on my recent visit to the restaurant.  But […]

Continue

review: six blocks to elysian fields…

Lobster, Egg, and Caviar Stella!, New Orleans, Louisiana Coincidence is a curious thing.  Sometimes, it can be a b*tch. Just before dessert, the sommelier arrived with a bottle of Champagne, a gift from the chef, Scott Boswell. To explain how this happened, let me rewind to the beginning of our meal at his restaurant, Stella! […]

Continue

review: six blocks to elysian fields…

Lobster, Egg, and Caviar Stella!, New Orleans, Louisiana Coincidence is a curious thing.  Sometimes, it can be a b*tch. Just before dessert, the sommelier arrived with a bottle of Champagne, a gift from the chef, Scott Boswell. To explain how this happened, let me rewind to the beginning of our meal at his restaurant, Stella! […]

Continue

review: galatwahs…

Oysters Rockefeller Galatoire’s, New Orleans, Louisiana As with the “The Quartah,” “oystahs,” and “Chartah Street,” the locals drop the “r” and call it “Galatwahs.” Founded in 1905 by French immigrant Jean Galatoire, over the last century, this unassuming restaurant on Bourbon Street has become New Orleans’s most beloved institution. This is where the city celebrates. […]

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review: galatwahs…

Oysters Rockefeller Galatoire’s, New Orleans, Louisiana As with the “The Quartah,” “oystahs,” and “Chartah Street,” the locals drop the “r” and call it “Galatwahs.” Founded in 1905 by French immigrant Jean Galatoire, over the last century, this unassuming restaurant on Bourbon Street has become New Orleans’s most beloved institution. This is where the city celebrates. […]

Continue