Tag: london
12 days of christmas: lowe… (2018)
– In 2011, I met a young, clear-minded chef in Paris named James Lowe. At the time, he was the head chef of St. John Bread & Wine in London. He would subsequently help found the Young Turks, a collaboration with fellow young guns Ben Greeno (who subsequently went on to open momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, […]
– In 2011, I met a young, clear-minded chef in Paris named James Lowe. At the time, he was the head chef of St. John Bread & Wine in London. He would subsequently help found the Young Turks, a collaboration with fellow young guns Ben Greeno (who subsequently went on to open momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, […]
favorite desserts of 2016…
– What is happening in pastryland? In 2015, I described a slow-down and a top-off, as the energy and excitement that I first noticed propelling dessert-making into a new era half a decade ago began to level. And as that unbridled sprint into the unknown, which had charted new and exciting territory, suddenly slowed, the language and form of pastry in this new era seemed to […]
– What is happening in pastryland? In 2015, I described a slow-down and a top-off, as the energy and excitement that I first noticed propelling dessert-making into a new era half a decade ago began to level. And as that unbridled sprint into the unknown, which had charted new and exciting territory, suddenly slowed, the language and form of pastry in this new era seemed to […]
travel: so flirtable….
~ I’ve been playing tag with London all of my adult life: always flirting, but never letting myself get caught in what would surely be a financially devastating love affair. So, perhaps purposefully, I have always kept my visits to the city brief. My recent trip in January was no exception.
~ I’ve been playing tag with London all of my adult life: always flirting, but never letting myself get caught in what would surely be a financially devastating love affair. So, perhaps purposefully, I have always kept my visits to the city brief. My recent trip in January was no exception.
review: tail of a feast…
Regretfully, I never wrote about my first meal at St. John Bread & Wine near Spitalfields, sibling to Fergus Henderson’s more-famous St. John at Smithfields.* Some say that, between the two restaurants, the food at St. John Bread & Wine is better, or at least more consistent. I haven’t the wherewithal to make that judgment. […]
Regretfully, I never wrote about my first meal at St. John Bread & Wine near Spitalfields, sibling to Fergus Henderson’s more-famous St. John at Smithfields.* Some say that, between the two restaurants, the food at St. John Bread & Wine is better, or at least more consistent. I haven’t the wherewithal to make that judgment. […]
review: reprise…
In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.* There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]
In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.* There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]
photo of the week 23: eating with celebrities…
When it comes to pop culture, I’m a dunce. Yesterday, for example, I had to Google Lindsay Lohan and Megan Fox (don’t ask). If either of them were seated next to me at a restaurant, I’m sure I wouldn’t recognize them. Even if I did, I’m not sure I would care. And so, it was […]
When it comes to pop culture, I’m a dunce. Yesterday, for example, I had to Google Lindsay Lohan and Megan Fox (don’t ask). If either of them were seated next to me at a restaurant, I’m sure I wouldn’t recognize them. Even if I did, I’m not sure I would care. And so, it was […]
photo of the week 9: my eyes…
Unlike my best childhood friend Micky, I never had aspirations of becoming a fighter pilot or astronaut. Whereas he had (and still has) perfect vision, a requirement for military flight school, by the time we attended Space Camp together in middle school, I was already sporting my first pair of glasses. While Micky went on […]
Unlike my best childhood friend Micky, I never had aspirations of becoming a fighter pilot or astronaut. Whereas he had (and still has) perfect vision, a requirement for military flight school, by the time we attended Space Camp together in middle school, I was already sporting my first pair of glasses. While Micky went on […]
review: a frosty blossom..
Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]
Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]
review: of blood and wonder…
Amuse Bouche l’Ambassade de l’Ile There is a sinister sleekness to l’Ambassade de l’Ile, the recently opened outpost to l’Auberge de l’Ile, a 2 Michelin-star restaurant in Lyon, France. There are shadows and dark corners. There are distorted silhouettes cast by underlit fixtures. Angles and mirrors make you doubt your presence. And there are voyeuristic […]
Amuse Bouche l’Ambassade de l’Ile There is a sinister sleekness to l’Ambassade de l’Ile, the recently opened outpost to l’Auberge de l’Ile, a 2 Michelin-star restaurant in Lyon, France. There are shadows and dark corners. There are distorted silhouettes cast by underlit fixtures. Angles and mirrors make you doubt your presence. And there are voyeuristic […]