favorite desserts of 2016…

– What is happening in pastryland? In 2015, I described a slow-down and a top-off, as the energy and excitement that I first noticed propelling dessert-making into a new era half a decade ago began to level.  And as that unbridled sprint into the unknown, which had charted new and exciting territory, suddenly slowed, the language and form of pastry in this new era seemed to […]

Continue

favorite desserts of 2016…

– What is happening in pastryland? In 2015, I described a slow-down and a top-off, as the energy and excitement that I first noticed propelling dessert-making into a new era half a decade ago began to level.  And as that unbridled sprint into the unknown, which had charted new and exciting territory, suddenly slowed, the language and form of pastry in this new era seemed to […]

Continue

travel: rediscovering coastal cuisine…

~ I’m not going to be shy: I’m very good with geography.  I always have been.  (I also have an unusually good sense of direction. My family calls me the walking GPS.) But, whereas I once associated places with landmarks, or friends, or museums, or colleges, I now mentally map out the world with food […]

Continue

travel: rediscovering coastal cuisine…

~ I’m not going to be shy: I’m very good with geography.  I always have been.  (I also have an unusually good sense of direction. My family calls me the walking GPS.) But, whereas I once associated places with landmarks, or friends, or museums, or colleges, I now mentally map out the world with food […]

Continue

12 days: turtle doves (shields)…

~ On the second day of the Twelve Days of Christmas at the Restaurant at Meadowood, Christopher Kostow gave to me two turtle doves, one named John, the other, Karen. Husband and wife, John and Karen share the last name Shields.  Not only are they two of the most exciting and forward-thinking chefs in America […]

Continue

12 days: turtle doves (shields)…

~ On the second day of the Twelve Days of Christmas at the Restaurant at Meadowood, Christopher Kostow gave to me two turtle doves, one named John, the other, Karen. Husband and wife, John and Karen share the last name Shields.  Not only are they two of the most exciting and forward-thinking chefs in America […]

Continue

preview: twelve days of christmas…

~ In September, while I was in Napa, I spent a fair amount of time at Meadowood Napa Valley, a Relais & Châteaux resort in St. Helena, and home to the three Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood.  Although I have already written about my business in Yountville during that trip, I wanted to devote a separate post […]

Continue

preview: twelve days of christmas…

~ In September, while I was in Napa, I spent a fair amount of time at Meadowood Napa Valley, a Relais & Châteaux resort in St. Helena, and home to the three Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood.  Although I have already written about my business in Yountville during that trip, I wanted to devote a separate post […]

Continue

travel: the final frontier…

~ Asked to draw the United States, would your map look like this? If so, listen up, this post is for you. Once the frontier to European immigrants migrating west, the stretch of mountain and meadow between our country’s coasts is, once again, the frontier. Finally, we, the middle, the easily forgotten, the hardly noticed, and […]

Continue

travel: the final frontier…

~ Asked to draw the United States, would your map look like this? If so, listen up, this post is for you. Once the frontier to European immigrants migrating west, the stretch of mountain and meadow between our country’s coasts is, once again, the frontier. Finally, we, the middle, the easily forgotten, the hardly noticed, and […]

Continue

dinner: collaboration…

The last time I pushed back from the table at a collaboration dinner, I vowed I’d never attend another. They’re just so tricky.  You take a group of random chefs, put them in a random kitchen with random cooks, all of them trying to orchestrate their random plates of food, and, somehow, it’s supposed to […]

Continue

dinner: collaboration…

The last time I pushed back from the table at a collaboration dinner, I vowed I’d never attend another. They’re just so tricky.  You take a group of random chefs, put them in a random kitchen with random cooks, all of them trying to orchestrate their random plates of food, and, somehow, it’s supposed to […]

Continue

review: you can’t get there quickly enough…

Seasalter, Laguiole, Baerenthal, Cala Montjoi, Honfleur, Fürstenau, Sluis, and Järpen: these are just a few of the far-flung places that people travel many hours – by planes, trains, automobiles, and, if you’re foolish and crazy like me, bicycles – to reach just to have a meal. There is not, unfortunately, the same tradition of traveling […]

Continue

review: you can’t get there quickly enough…

Seasalter, Laguiole, Baerenthal, Cala Montjoi, Honfleur, Fürstenau, Sluis, and Järpen: these are just a few of the far-flung places that people travel many hours – by planes, trains, automobiles, and, if you’re foolish and crazy like me, bicycles – to reach just to have a meal. There is not, unfortunately, the same tradition of traveling […]

Continue

travel: brocked…

A new term was coined this weekend in Charleston: “Brocked.” It’s what happens when you get spoiled by Sean Brock’s full-throttle brand of hospitality – a dangerously high-octane combination of bourbon, lard, and his infectious laugh that’ll keep you up and out until all sorts of crazy hours of the morning. My friends chuckeats, Miss […]

Continue

travel: brocked…

A new term was coined this weekend in Charleston: “Brocked.” It’s what happens when you get spoiled by Sean Brock’s full-throttle brand of hospitality – a dangerously high-octane combination of bourbon, lard, and his infectious laugh that’ll keep you up and out until all sorts of crazy hours of the morning. My friends chuckeats, Miss […]

Continue

review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

Continue

review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

Continue