Tag: french

review: toque of toques… (paul bocuse)

I went back to l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges (a.k.a. Restaurant Paul Bocuse) because it was convenient. That’s not to say I wouldn’t have gone back for other reasons. But I was literally down the street from the restaurant at l’Abbaye de Collonges for the day with Team U.S.A. in late January.  So, I decided […]

Continue

review: toque of toques… (paul bocuse)

I went back to l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges (a.k.a. Restaurant Paul Bocuse) because it was convenient. That’s not to say I wouldn’t have gone back for other reasons. But I was literally down the street from the restaurant at l’Abbaye de Collonges for the day with Team U.S.A. in late January.  So, I decided […]

Continue

review: weinstube…

My friend Niles is such a ham. Last week, as our group paused to survey our dinner table, astonished by the amount of pork we collectively ordered, Niles alone shrugged. “I’m still plumping,” she clipped wryly, and dove right in. In that moment, Niles framed me perfectly as I arrived in Alsace on a train […]

Continue

review: weinstube…

My friend Niles is such a ham. Last week, as our group paused to survey our dinner table, astonished by the amount of pork we collectively ordered, Niles alone shrugged. “I’m still plumping,” she clipped wryly, and dove right in. In that moment, Niles framed me perfectly as I arrived in Alsace on a train […]

Continue

review: reprise…

In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.*  There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]

Continue

review: reprise…

In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.*  There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]

Continue

review: time colors it rosy…

Inexperience and hunger flatter food. Time colors it rosy. Having said all my goodbyes, I celebrated my last day as a Chicago resident by running a half marathon, indulging in a massage, stealing a nap, and treating myself to a quiet dinner for one.  That was the summer of 2005. I asked Chris Nugent, the […]

Continue

review: time colors it rosy…

Inexperience and hunger flatter food. Time colors it rosy. Having said all my goodbyes, I celebrated my last day as a Chicago resident by running a half marathon, indulging in a massage, stealing a nap, and treating myself to a quiet dinner for one.  That was the summer of 2005. I asked Chris Nugent, the […]

Continue

review: it kills me…

La Grenouille, New York I can imagine Holden Caulfield eating at la Grenouille as an adult, his gawkishly tall frame folded into the tiny back corner banquette – back near the kitchen door. His internal soundtrack would register a complaint about being seated back there, back where no one cares. If he weren’t so yellow, […]

Continue

review: it kills me…

La Grenouille, New York I can imagine Holden Caulfield eating at la Grenouille as an adult, his gawkishly tall frame folded into the tiny back corner banquette – back near the kitchen door. His internal soundtrack would register a complaint about being seated back there, back where no one cares. If he weren’t so yellow, […]

Continue

review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

Continue

review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

Continue

review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

Continue

review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

Continue

review: galatwahs…

Oysters Rockefeller Galatoire’s, New Orleans, Louisiana As with the “The Quartah,” “oystahs,” and “Chartah Street,” the locals drop the “r” and call it “Galatwahs.” Founded in 1905 by French immigrant Jean Galatoire, over the last century, this unassuming restaurant on Bourbon Street has become New Orleans’s most beloved institution. This is where the city celebrates. […]

Continue

review: galatwahs…

Oysters Rockefeller Galatoire’s, New Orleans, Louisiana As with the “The Quartah,” “oystahs,” and “Chartah Street,” the locals drop the “r” and call it “Galatwahs.” Founded in 1905 by French immigrant Jean Galatoire, over the last century, this unassuming restaurant on Bourbon Street has become New Orleans’s most beloved institution. This is where the city celebrates. […]

Continue

review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

Continue

review: maugre expectations…

1st Course: Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad Daniel, New York I was young, both figuratively and literally, the first time I ate at Daniel. That was five years ago. My friend and I were treated like the dishwasher’s stepchildren. I exaggerate, of course. But Daniel was clearly a place for fancy pants that I’ll never get […]

Continue

review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

Continue

review: farrago…

European Ham Assortment Pierre, Hong Kong Conventional wisdom dictates that if Pierre Gagnaire’s not in the kitchen, don’t go. I violated this rule, and I paid the price. But I did so in the company of a veteran and devotee of Gagnaire’s restaurants – he’s been to every one of them: Paris, Bangkok, Hong Kong, […]

Continue