review: quietude of excellence… (the modern)

– It’s rare that I have an uncommitted meal when I travel. But since I was in New York for three weeks, I left a couple of pockets open, here and there, to play by ear. So, it was dumb luck that I was free for dinner the day that my friend Belinda Chang called. […]

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review: quietude of excellence… (the modern)

– It’s rare that I have an uncommitted meal when I travel. But since I was in New York for three weeks, I left a couple of pockets open, here and there, to play by ear. So, it was dumb luck that I was free for dinner the day that my friend Belinda Chang called. […]

Continue

review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

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review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

Continue

review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

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review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

Continue

review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

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review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

Continue

review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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review: raining stars…

Santa Barbara Sea Urchins Eleven Madison Park, New York The sidereal has turned.  The stars have aligned. In almost every respect, Eleven Madison Park is the new kid on the constellation. In the months since my last visit in May, Eleven Madison Park has been awarded four stars from Frank Bruni, the former restaurant critic […]

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eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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review: eclipse…

Eleven Madison Park Last time, the earth stood still. This time, my meal at Eleven Madison Park was a total eclipse. Neither the sun nor moon disappeared. But, for the five blissful hours that my hosts and I dined, it seemed as if the whole world’s attention had been diverted to our table. Eleven Madison […]

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review: eclipse…

Eleven Madison Park Last time, the earth stood still. This time, my meal at Eleven Madison Park was a total eclipse. Neither the sun nor moon disappeared. But, for the five blissful hours that my hosts and I dined, it seemed as if the whole world’s attention had been diverted to our table. Eleven Madison […]

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review: farm to city…

Smoked Lobster Originally uploaded by ulterior epicure Gramercy Tavern Recently having read “Setting the Table” by Danny Meyer, I decided to visit one more table in his many-kitchened empire. Earlier this year, I had visited both the Modern Bar (see here) and Eleven Madison Park where was impressed by young chef Daniel Humm (“review: the […]

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review: farm to city…

Smoked Lobster Originally uploaded by ulterior epicure Gramercy Tavern Recently having read “Setting the Table” by Danny Meyer, I decided to visit one more table in his many-kitchened empire. Earlier this year, I had visited both the Modern Bar (see here) and Eleven Madison Park where was impressed by young chef Daniel Humm (“review: the […]

Continue

review: the earth stood still…

Hi, I’m back. The last time I posted was about my birthday, at home. In the meantime, I’ve been to New York City and back. Boy did I have a nice celebration there – the last, and most stunning was at Eleven Madison Park.  Here is my review of this very special dinner. Eleven Madison Park […]

Continue

review: the earth stood still…

Hi, I’m back. The last time I posted was about my birthday, at home. In the meantime, I’ve been to New York City and back. Boy did I have a nice celebration there – the last, and most stunning was at Eleven Madison Park.  Here is my review of this very special dinner. Eleven Madison Park […]

Continue