Tag: copenhagen

12 days: on the third day of christmas: puglisi… (2015)

~ At a dinner at relæ in Copenhagen a few months ago, I marveled at the amount of flavor coaxed out of carrots and seaweed – an unexpectedly dynamic marriage – and how simple and delicious chicken could be with little more than its crispy skin, blitzed into a crunchy crumble, and some cabbage (here […]

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12 days: on the third day of christmas: puglisi… (2015)

~ At a dinner at relæ in Copenhagen a few months ago, I marveled at the amount of flavor coaxed out of carrots and seaweed – an unexpectedly dynamic marriage – and how simple and delicious chicken could be with little more than its crispy skin, blitzed into a crunchy crumble, and some cabbage (here […]

Continue

travel: for bothwell and tandsmør…

– In 1559, while sailing through the Dano-Norwegian kingdom (at the time, the two were united under the Danish crown), a Scottish admiral fell in love with the daughter of the Danish admiral (who was Norwegian).  They married, and he whisked this Norwegian noblewoman off to his faraway land. But be not misled.  This deceptively romantic scene […]

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travel: for bothwell and tandsmør…

– In 1559, while sailing through the Dano-Norwegian kingdom (at the time, the two were united under the Danish crown), a Scottish admiral fell in love with the daughter of the Danish admiral (who was Norwegian).  They married, and he whisked this Norwegian noblewoman off to his faraway land. But be not misled.  This deceptively romantic scene […]

Continue

travel: toward a facile familiarity…

~ The Norwegian Airline strike was a refrain during the latest Friends of Lysverket weekend in Bergen.  It came up repeatedly in conversation. The strike had gone on way too long, keeping thousands of people, including me, suspended in travel limbo.  I had two connecting flights on the airline that week: one to Copenhagen, and one to Oslo, where Christopher Haatuft […]

Continue

travel: toward a facile familiarity…

~ The Norwegian Airline strike was a refrain during the latest Friends of Lysverket weekend in Bergen.  It came up repeatedly in conversation. The strike had gone on way too long, keeping thousands of people, including me, suspended in travel limbo.  I had two connecting flights on the airline that week: one to Copenhagen, and one to Oslo, where Christopher Haatuft […]

Continue

review: cooking is back… (kong hans kælder)

– It used to be that people talked about dishes.  Now, they talk about names. Those of you who read this blog or follow me on social media know that I have been fairly critical of the way the restaurant industry has shifted the focus away from the diner, and has, in general, devolved into a […]

Continue

review: cooking is back… (kong hans kælder)

– It used to be that people talked about dishes.  Now, they talk about names. Those of you who read this blog or follow me on social media know that I have been fairly critical of the way the restaurant industry has shifted the focus away from the diner, and has, in general, devolved into a […]

Continue

travel: better late than never…

~ The last time I was in Copenhagen, I was eleven years-old. In the years since, the city has waxed into a culinary constellation that now attracts gastronauts from faraway places. Copenhagen’s rise as an eating destination was quick and hot, and unexpected. But its story was a good one: a naissance of exploration, celebration, […]

Continue

travel: better late than never…

~ The last time I was in Copenhagen, I was eleven years-old. In the years since, the city has waxed into a culinary constellation that now attracts gastronauts from faraway places. Copenhagen’s rise as an eating destination was quick and hot, and unexpected. But its story was a good one: a naissance of exploration, celebration, […]

Continue