Tag: 2011

review: cave à manger…

The last time I saw my friend LaTache, I was in my running clothes eating porchetta out of a food truck. In the months since, he had moved to France and made it his home. So, on my recent trip to Paris, we met for dinner at Saturne, Sven Chartier’s upwardly trending cave à manger […]

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review: cave à manger…

The last time I saw my friend LaTache, I was in my running clothes eating porchetta out of a food truck. In the months since, he had moved to France and made it his home. So, on my recent trip to Paris, we met for dinner at Saturne, Sven Chartier’s upwardly trending cave à manger […]

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review: the happiest corner on earth…

If good food is to be celebrated, then there is much too little mirth at the high end of gastronomy these days. And, it seems that the more you spend, the more sombre the scene, the more severe the service. At their best, meals should be fun and delicious, a party for one or for […]

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review: the happiest corner on earth…

If good food is to be celebrated, then there is much too little mirth at the high end of gastronomy these days. And, it seems that the more you spend, the more sombre the scene, the more severe the service. At their best, meals should be fun and delicious, a party for one or for […]

Continue

review: crave…

By the time I landed in Barcelona at 11 a.m., I had already set foot in three countries that morning. I hadn’t slept a wink and was still working off the excesses from the night before. But, having just spent a week above the glacial line, I perked up to the balmy breeze on the […]

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review: crave…

By the time I landed in Barcelona at 11 a.m., I had already set foot in three countries that morning. I hadn’t slept a wink and was still working off the excesses from the night before. But, having just spent a week above the glacial line, I perked up to the balmy breeze on the […]

Continue

review: toque of toques… (paul bocuse)

I went back to l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges (a.k.a. Restaurant Paul Bocuse) because it was convenient. That’s not to say I wouldn’t have gone back for other reasons. But I was literally down the street from the restaurant at l’Abbaye de Collonges for the day with Team U.S.A. in late January.  So, I decided […]

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review: toque of toques… (paul bocuse)

I went back to l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges (a.k.a. Restaurant Paul Bocuse) because it was convenient. That’s not to say I wouldn’t have gone back for other reasons. But I was literally down the street from the restaurant at l’Abbaye de Collonges for the day with Team U.S.A. in late January.  So, I decided […]

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review: weinstube…

My friend Niles is such a ham. Last week, as our group paused to survey our dinner table, astonished by the amount of pork we collectively ordered, Niles alone shrugged. “I’m still plumping,” she clipped wryly, and dove right in. In that moment, Niles framed me perfectly as I arrived in Alsace on a train […]

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review: weinstube…

My friend Niles is such a ham. Last week, as our group paused to survey our dinner table, astonished by the amount of pork we collectively ordered, Niles alone shrugged. “I’m still plumping,” she clipped wryly, and dove right in. In that moment, Niles framed me perfectly as I arrived in Alsace on a train […]

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review: tail of a feast…

Regretfully, I never wrote about my first meal at St. John Bread & Wine near Spitalfields, sibling to Fergus Henderson’s more-famous St. John at Smithfields.* Some say that, between the two restaurants, the food at St. John Bread & Wine is better, or at least more consistent.  I haven’t the wherewithal to make that  judgment. […]

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review: tail of a feast…

Regretfully, I never wrote about my first meal at St. John Bread & Wine near Spitalfields, sibling to Fergus Henderson’s more-famous St. John at Smithfields.* Some say that, between the two restaurants, the food at St. John Bread & Wine is better, or at least more consistent.  I haven’t the wherewithal to make that  judgment. […]

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le squer at sirha…

“So, you will come to my presentation with Le Squer in Lyon.”  It was more of a decision, less a question. Bruno Verjus, arguably, knows more about food than any other person I know.  The bonus is that he’s incredibly passionate about his affections, humble in his station as one of the most well-connected food […]

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le squer at sirha…

“So, you will come to my presentation with Le Squer in Lyon.”  It was more of a decision, less a question. Bruno Verjus, arguably, knows more about food than any other person I know.  The bonus is that he’s incredibly passionate about his affections, humble in his station as one of the most well-connected food […]

Continue

bocuse d’or…

Thanks to an amazing group of people, whom I thank below, I was afforded a rare, behind the scenes look at the final days of Team U.S.A.’s year-long journey to the Bocuse d’Or competition in Lyon, France. Although I arrived a spectator, with hope of little more, I was unexpectedly welcomed and included by the […]

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bocuse d’or…

Thanks to an amazing group of people, whom I thank below, I was afforded a rare, behind the scenes look at the final days of Team U.S.A.’s year-long journey to the Bocuse d’Or competition in Lyon, France. Although I arrived a spectator, with hope of little more, I was unexpectedly welcomed and included by the […]

Continue

review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

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review: fugue…

John Shields, the chef of Town House, was unnaturally familiar with the forty-two dishes that were recently set down before us at el bulli. Having tried unsuccessfully for years to get a reservation at the restaurant, he had spent a considerable amount of time reading about and canvassing the internet for pictures of Ferran Adria’s […]

Continue

photo of the week 32: heart of darkness…

I’m not one for sappy, greeting card holidays, but since it’s Valentine’s Day, and I’m behind on my photos of the week, for this thirty-second one, I give you a big, gooey, heart of darkness.

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photo of the week 32: heart of darkness…

I’m not one for sappy, greeting card holidays, but since it’s Valentine’s Day, and I’m behind on my photos of the week, for this thirty-second one, I give you a big, gooey, heart of darkness.

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