favorites of 2019: the restaurant edition…

A tangle of claws cascading from scalloped rims brimming with ice and seafood. A shoulder of goat with crispy skin and tender meat melting off the bone. Glistening turbot, straight off the coals, and trolleys laden with all manner of goodies, from sweets to cheeses. These are just a few of the incredible scenes I […]

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favorites of 2019: the restaurant edition…

A tangle of claws cascading from scalloped rims brimming with ice and seafood. A shoulder of goat with crispy skin and tender meat melting off the bone. Glistening turbot, straight off the coals, and trolleys laden with all manner of goodies, from sweets to cheeses. These are just a few of the incredible scenes I […]

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favorite desserts of 2019…

– Is it me, or is pastryland slowly coming back down to earth? After years of frenetic experimentation and exploration, it seems like pastry chefs are finally getting back in touch with reality. There are still plenty of exciting and unexpected (and, yes, sometimes bizarre) ideas coming out of pastry kitchens. And sadly, one of […]

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favorite desserts of 2019…

– Is it me, or is pastryland slowly coming back down to earth? After years of frenetic experimentation and exploration, it seems like pastry chefs are finally getting back in touch with reality. There are still plenty of exciting and unexpected (and, yes, sometimes bizarre) ideas coming out of pastry kitchens. And sadly, one of […]

Continue

favorite dishes of 2019…

– As you’ve probably noticed, this blog went silent over the summer. During that time, a wonderful team of smart people at WordPress and Automattic were working hard behind the scenes, giving this site a desperately needed makeover. While there are loose ends that still need tidying, I encourage you to start clicking around and […]

Continue

favorite dishes of 2019…

– As you’ve probably noticed, this blog went silent over the summer. During that time, a wonderful team of smart people at WordPress and Automattic were working hard behind the scenes, giving this site a desperately needed makeover. While there are loose ends that still need tidying, I encourage you to start clicking around and […]

Continue

travel: in dazzling relief… (2019)

12 days of christmas: kostow (2019)

The last day of the Twelve Days of Christmas is a tangle of excitement and exhaustion that is well-documented in previous years on this blog (a complete, hyperlinked list of every single dinner since 2012 can be found at the bottom of this post).  For the cooks there’s the afterglow of having hosted eleven guest […]

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12 days of christmas: kostow (2019)

The last day of the Twelve Days of Christmas is a tangle of excitement and exhaustion that is well-documented in previous years on this blog (a complete, hyperlinked list of every single dinner since 2012 can be found at the bottom of this post).  For the cooks there’s the afterglow of having hosted eleven guest […]

Continue

12 days of christmas: lee… (2019)

– On the recommendation of a friend during a three-day layover in Singapore, I had the pleasure of eating at Candlenut.  That was the summer of 2016, just before the Michelin Guide arrived in Singapore, where it would award chef Malcolm Lee and his Peranakan cooking a worthy star later that year. Lee brought his […]

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12 days of christmas: lee… (2019)

– On the recommendation of a friend during a three-day layover in Singapore, I had the pleasure of eating at Candlenut.  That was the summer of 2016, just before the Michelin Guide arrived in Singapore, where it would award chef Malcolm Lee and his Peranakan cooking a worthy star later that year. Lee brought his […]

Continue

12 days of christmas: charles… (2019)

– I hadn’t heard of Jeremy Charles, or his restaurant Raymonds in Newfoundland.  But after doing a little reading, I uncovered an approach to cooking simpatico with my own perspective and preferences. In an age when social media make it easy for chefs to appear closer to nature, here you have a chef who seems […]

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12 days of christmas: charles… (2019)

– I hadn’t heard of Jeremy Charles, or his restaurant Raymonds in Newfoundland.  But after doing a little reading, I uncovered an approach to cooking simpatico with my own perspective and preferences. In an age when social media make it easy for chefs to appear closer to nature, here you have a chef who seems […]

Continue

12 days of christmas: williams… (2019)

– I first heard of Brady Williams when he was hired to become the head chef at Canlis in spring of 2015.  And since then, he has catapulted into the national spotlight as a rising star (twice a finalist in the Rising Star category for the James Beard Foundation Awards, and winning the James Beard […]

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12 days of christmas: williams… (2019)

– I first heard of Brady Williams when he was hired to become the head chef at Canlis in spring of 2015.  And since then, he has catapulted into the national spotlight as a rising star (twice a finalist in the Rising Star category for the James Beard Foundation Awards, and winning the James Beard […]

Continue

12 days of christmas: nørregaard… (2019)

– I first ate at kadeau in Copenhagen in early 2013.  What I loved about it then was how simple, delicious, and straightforward the food was compared to the New Nordic zeitgeist at the time.  Chef Nicolai Nørregaard showcased the flora and fauna of Scandinavia without veering into the bizarre. Although I haven’t followed chef […]

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12 days of christmas: nørregaard… (2019)

– I first ate at kadeau in Copenhagen in early 2013.  What I loved about it then was how simple, delicious, and straightforward the food was compared to the New Nordic zeitgeist at the time.  Chef Nicolai Nørregaard showcased the flora and fauna of Scandinavia without veering into the bizarre. Although I haven’t followed chef […]

Continue

12 days of christmas: chan… (2019)

– I was wrong about Jeremy Chan and his cooking. When I first heard about his restaurant Ikoyi near Piccadilly in London, friends described the food as West African.  Not having much experience with West African cooking, I couldn’t say whether it was or wasn’t.  Some of the food that I had there seemed West African (there […]

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12 days of christmas: chan… (2019)

– I was wrong about Jeremy Chan and his cooking. When I first heard about his restaurant Ikoyi near Piccadilly in London, friends described the food as West African.  Not having much experience with West African cooking, I couldn’t say whether it was or wasn’t.  Some of the food that I had there seemed West African (there […]

Continue