Destination: Monaco

review: at the metropole… (joël robuchon monte-carlo)

– Is the moment of innovation more exciting than the period of enjoyment thereafter?  What happens when zeitgeist changes and context fades? Although I am old enough to have eaten at Jamin, Joël Robuchon’s first restaurant in Paris, I never did.  And, even if I had, as a toddler, I wouldn’t have appreciated the revolutionary […]

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review: at the metropole… (joël robuchon monte-carlo)

– Is the moment of innovation more exciting than the period of enjoyment thereafter?  What happens when zeitgeist changes and context fades? Although I am old enough to have eaten at Jamin, Joël Robuchon’s first restaurant in Paris, I never did.  And, even if I had, as a toddler, I wouldn’t have appreciated the revolutionary […]

Continue

best of 2011: the restaurant edition…

Mood and mind, place and time: once recorded, they cannot be erased. Neither can company nor cast, nor the events that happened at table. To do so would be a pity anyway, for dining is theatre; every part a prop, everyone a role.  And, as with life, in its unscripted scenes are often its finest […]

Continue

best of 2011: the restaurant edition…

Mood and mind, place and time: once recorded, they cannot be erased. Neither can company nor cast, nor the events that happened at table. To do so would be a pity anyway, for dining is theatre; every part a prop, everyone a role.  And, as with life, in its unscripted scenes are often its finest […]

Continue

best desserts of 2011…

(Frozen Sake; elBulli) Is pastry having a “moment?” Judging by the desserts I’ve had this year, I’d say it is. In the past, I’ve tacked on a dozen or so desserts to my annual “best dishes” post in a section at the bottom called “just desserts.”  While their inclusion was far from an afterthought, even […]

Continue

best desserts of 2011…

(Frozen Sake; elBulli) Is pastry having a “moment?” Judging by the desserts I’ve had this year, I’d say it is. In the past, I’ve tacked on a dozen or so desserts to my annual “best dishes” post in a section at the bottom called “just desserts.”  While their inclusion was far from an afterthought, even […]

Continue