Just as the world seemed to be galloping away from the pandemic, it was abruptly unhorsed by Omicron. As the new Covid variant – by far, the most infectious yet, we were told – raced around the globe in late 2021 and early 2022, spreading like glitter among preschoolers, I was on my way to […]
– We had been toying with the possibility of eating at Paolo Lopriore’s Il Canto all week. My friend Adam and I were vacationing in Tuscany with my friends last summer, and Siena was within striking distance. The only two people I knew who had eaten there (one of them was Adam, the other was […]
(Crispy Pig Ears; Husk) * * * Another December, another set of listicles. Every year for the the past six, I’ve rounded up the best edibles of each and posted them here for posterity. They’ve included a list of my twenty-five favorite dishes, the best dozen desserts, and the top ten restaurant meals of each […]
Eleven months ago, I took a tremendous leap of faith. I quit my job. Life will catch you, my friends reassured. I wasn’t so convinced. I went to Europe soon thereafter, to think, to eat, to explore, and to spectate. Certain that it was my last hurrah for a while, I was thankful for the […]
Someone with grand wit once quipped that the problem with dining on the cutting edge is that you’re oft left bleeding. How true. It grieves me to report that my dinner at Osteria Francescana, perhaps one of the most spotlit restaurants in the world right now, was disappointing.
If life isn’t measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of moments that take our breath away, then my recent one-month trip through Europe, alone, deserves its own biography. So full were my days that each seemed a chapter, and every moment a page-turn that peeled away yet another layer […]