Category: travel

where my mouth has taken me…

photo of the week 2: the church of mushroom…

Since España won the World Cup this week, I dove into my Spanish collection for inspiration. In 2005, I was a student of the world, traveling extensively and eating my way gluttonously through Europe. How could I not stop in Barcelona? A hajj to the tapas Mecca seemed not only prudent, but necessary. I never […]

Continue

photo of the week 2: the church of mushroom…

Since España won the World Cup this week, I dove into my Spanish collection for inspiration. In 2005, I was a student of the world, traveling extensively and eating my way gluttonously through Europe. How could I not stop in Barcelona? A hajj to the tapas Mecca seemed not only prudent, but necessary. I never […]

Continue

photo of the week 1: on top of granola…

I photograph subjects other than food. In fact, my favorite subjects are people. Portraiture is, perhaps, my favorite genre of art. Prompted by the surprising level of interest in my food photographs (which really are amateur, on-the-fly shots, you do realize), I’ve considered, for a while now, starting a new series on this blog, which […]

Continue

photo of the week 1: on top of granola…

I photograph subjects other than food. In fact, my favorite subjects are people. Portraiture is, perhaps, my favorite genre of art. Prompted by the surprising level of interest in my food photographs (which really are amateur, on-the-fly shots, you do realize), I’ve considered, for a while now, starting a new series on this blog, which […]

Continue

review: embarrassment of riches…

Café Boulud, New York, New York Chanel No. 5 in the dining room, Yemen No. 10 in the spice pantry. This is the dichotomy you’ll find at Café Boulud. Yeah, yeah, I know, I was just there. That was Gavin Kaysen’s reaction too when he saw my name pop up on the books.* A return? […]

Continue

review: embarrassment of riches…

Café Boulud, New York, New York Chanel No. 5 in the dining room, Yemen No. 10 in the spice pantry. This is the dichotomy you’ll find at Café Boulud. Yeah, yeah, I know, I was just there. That was Gavin Kaysen’s reaction too when he saw my name pop up on the books.* A return? […]

Continue

review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

Continue

review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

Continue

review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

Continue

review: this little piggy…

Misticanza Maialino, New York Though I be wee, I’m fairly certain that my cheeks haven’t seen a booster chair in twenty-some years. A recent brunch with a friend gave us both the opportunity to revisit our infancy. The booths at Maialino look normal, and the benches well-cushioned and soft. Indeed, they are. But settle down […]

Continue

review: apotheosis interruptus…

Cannoli Sundae Pulino’s, New York Say you arrive into New York late, and the taxi stand has a tail that coils halfway to New Jersey. There is no way you’re going to get into Manhattan before 11 p.m., when most restaurant kitchens close. And suppose that you haven’t had dinner yet. Where do you go […]

Continue

review: apotheosis interruptus…

Cannoli Sundae Pulino’s, New York Say you arrive into New York late, and the taxi stand has a tail that coils halfway to New Jersey. There is no way you’re going to get into Manhattan before 11 p.m., when most restaurant kitchens close. And suppose that you haven’t had dinner yet. Where do you go […]

Continue

travel: smoke, with a chance of downpour…

Big Apple BBQ Block Party Fast Pass, New York, New York As an out-of-towner, you really shouldn’t sleep when you’re in New York City.  It’s a waste of time.  Think of what you might be missing, all the things you could do that you normally wouldn’t. For example, consider having dinner at midnight, a scandalously […]

Continue

travel: smoke, with a chance of downpour…

Big Apple BBQ Block Party Fast Pass, New York, New York As an out-of-towner, you really shouldn’t sleep when you’re in New York City.  It’s a waste of time.  Think of what you might be missing, all the things you could do that you normally wouldn’t. For example, consider having dinner at midnight, a scandalously […]

Continue

review: word of mouth…

Xi Yan Wanchai, Hong Kong Some restaurants exist solely by word of mouth.  They are underground, known only among the dining cognescenti. In Hong Kong, they’re referred to as “private kitchens,” though they are neither private nor a kitchen. They are restaurants, understated. They are usually small, reservation-only.  And they’re usually hard to get into. […]

Continue

review: word of mouth…

Xi Yan Wanchai, Hong Kong Some restaurants exist solely by word of mouth.  They are underground, known only among the dining cognescenti. In Hong Kong, they’re referred to as “private kitchens,” though they are neither private nor a kitchen. They are restaurants, understated. They are usually small, reservation-only.  And they’re usually hard to get into. […]

Continue

review: damn the torpedoes…

Abalone Aqua, San Francisco This review is moot.  You’ll see why in a second. To the best of my ability, a timeline: 1991: Aqua opened at 252 California Street in San Francisco with George Morrone as the executive chef. 1993: Michael Mina took the reins in the kitchen as executive chef.  He also assumed ownership […]

Continue

review: damn the torpedoes…

Abalone Aqua, San Francisco This review is moot.  You’ll see why in a second. To the best of my ability, a timeline: 1991: Aqua opened at 252 California Street in San Francisco with George Morrone as the executive chef. 1993: Michael Mina took the reins in the kitchen as executive chef.  He also assumed ownership […]

Continue

review: remembrance of things past…

Spaghetti Nero Cafe Boulud, New York It doesn’t happen often.  In fact, it happens so rarely that you sometimes can’t recall the last time it happened. But once in a few hundred meals or so, a dining experience knocks you off your duff and leaves you breathless. I can tell you the last time this […]

Continue

review: remembrance of things past…

Spaghetti Nero Cafe Boulud, New York It doesn’t happen often.  In fact, it happens so rarely that you sometimes can’t recall the last time it happened. But once in a few hundred meals or so, a dining experience knocks you off your duff and leaves you breathless. I can tell you the last time this […]

Continue