news: notion…

Earlier this year, I sent out a chef signal in search of Dave Racicot, the former Executive Chef of Lautrec at the Nemacolin Woods Resort in Pennsylvania.  Having fallen off my radar, he was nowhere to be found. Thanks to a reader of this blog, I was reconnected with Racicot by email a few weeks […]

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news: notion…

Earlier this year, I sent out a chef signal in search of Dave Racicot, the former Executive Chef of Lautrec at the Nemacolin Woods Resort in Pennsylvania.  Having fallen off my radar, he was nowhere to be found. Thanks to a reader of this blog, I was reconnected with Racicot by email a few weeks […]

Continue

review: the magical rotisserie…

I fell into this one totally unprepared. I had a standing date to meet a friend at the Ferry Marketplace in San Francisco on a Saturday morning. That happens to be when all the farmers arrive with their treasures and the place devolves into feeding mayhem. We were supposed to have coffee and some pastries […]

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review: the magical rotisserie…

I fell into this one totally unprepared. I had a standing date to meet a friend at the Ferry Marketplace in San Francisco on a Saturday morning. That happens to be when all the farmers arrive with their treasures and the place devolves into feeding mayhem. We were supposed to have coffee and some pastries […]

Continue

review: sanglant, mais pas bleu…

I’m fairly certain I was whining about the demise of the daringly bloody roast beef sandwich when chuckeats told me about the one at Il Cane Rosso, Daniel Patterson’s walk-up eatery in the Ferry Marketplace in San Francisco.  It could be a quick lunch option, he suggested. We made it happen.

Continue

review: sanglant, mais pas bleu…

I’m fairly certain I was whining about the demise of the daringly bloody roast beef sandwich when chuckeats told me about the one at Il Cane Rosso, Daniel Patterson’s walk-up eatery in the Ferry Marketplace in San Francisco.  It could be a quick lunch option, he suggested. We made it happen.

Continue

rumination 15: why restaurants matter…

There are eight million ways I could start this post. I could begin by scrutinizing the moral imperative surrounding high-end dining, while trying to dodge all of its guilt-laden side effects and seemingly unjustifiable excesses.  Let them eat brioche, as it were. Or, I could initiate a circuitous dialogue about the artistic value of cooking […]

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rumination 15: why restaurants matter…

There are eight million ways I could start this post. I could begin by scrutinizing the moral imperative surrounding high-end dining, while trying to dodge all of its guilt-laden side effects and seemingly unjustifiable excesses.  Let them eat brioche, as it were. Or, I could initiate a circuitous dialogue about the artistic value of cooking […]

Continue

review: timeless…

  Why doesn’t piperade get more playtime among the food cognoscenti? Surely, it’s not the shiniest new toy on the block – Gerald Hirigoyen, who was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 1994, opened this “California Basque” restaurant at the foot of Telegraph Hill with his wife in 2002. But eight […]

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review: timeless…

  Why doesn’t piperade get more playtime among the food cognoscenti? Surely, it’s not the shiniest new toy on the block – Gerald Hirigoyen, who was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 1994, opened this “California Basque” restaurant at the foot of Telegraph Hill with his wife in 2002. But eight […]

Continue