Month: March 2010

review: happy in the kitchen…

Ahi Tuna Burger Central Michel Richard, Washington, D.C. The temperature was dropping rapidly.  In the hour it took to get from the airport to the hotel and from the hotel to lunch, the thermometer trimmed itself of nearly twenty degrees.  Cold rain might turn into snow, they said.  Freezing temperatures were expected by early evening. […]

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review: happy in the kitchen…

Ahi Tuna Burger Central Michel Richard, Washington, D.C. The temperature was dropping rapidly.  In the hour it took to get from the airport to the hotel and from the hotel to lunch, the thermometer trimmed itself of nearly twenty degrees.  Cold rain might turn into snow, they said.  Freezing temperatures were expected by early evening. […]

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travel: a vernal showing…

Cherry Blossoms Dunbarton Oaks, Washington, D.C. The cherry trees were beginning their vernal show around the Tidal Basin.  And despite the unexpected freeze, they held up nicely for the official start to the Cherry Blossom Festival. Though I can’t say I enjoyed living there, it was good to be back in Washington, D.C.  I hadn’t […]

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travel: a vernal showing…

Cherry Blossoms Dunbarton Oaks, Washington, D.C. The cherry trees were beginning their vernal show around the Tidal Basin.  And despite the unexpected freeze, they held up nicely for the official start to the Cherry Blossom Festival. Though I can’t say I enjoyed living there, it was good to be back in Washington, D.C.  I hadn’t […]

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review: initialism…

Bay Scallops SPQR, San Francisco An unassuming eatery tucked away in the Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, S.P.Q.R. is probably best known as the more casual cousin to A16.  Both restaurants are were co-owned by Nate Appleman, who was, for a time, the culinary darling au current of America. But Appleman has quieted down […]

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review: initialism…

Bay Scallops SPQR, San Francisco An unassuming eatery tucked away in the Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, S.P.Q.R. is probably best known as the more casual cousin to A16.  Both restaurants are were co-owned by Nate Appleman, who was, for a time, the culinary darling au current of America. But Appleman has quieted down […]

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review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

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review: thoroughly modern meyer…

Fresh Morel Mushroom and Fava Bean Salad The Modern, New York, New York I have to tell you about one of the best meals I had last year. It was at The Modern in New York. I’ve eaten twice in the The Modern Bar Room, the restaurant’s sprawling European airport lounge-like attachment (2007, 2008).  It […]

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recipe: poteca…

Poteca It’s pronounced poh-TEE-tsah, according to my friend Mangeur. Poteca is a eastern European rolled yeast-based pastry layered with a slightly sweet nut filling. I’ve known a version called povitica, which is sold by a rather well-known company in my hometown called the Strawberry Hill Povitica Co. Their pastry comes in 2.5-pound loaf form and […]

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recipe: poteca…

Poteca It’s pronounced poh-TEE-tsah, according to my friend Mangeur. Poteca is a eastern European rolled yeast-based pastry layered with a slightly sweet nut filling. I’ve known a version called povitica, which is sold by a rather well-known company in my hometown called the Strawberry Hill Povitica Co. Their pastry comes in 2.5-pound loaf form and […]

Continue

review: for the view…

Chocolate Souffle miX, Las Vegas It was mostly for the view that Cowboy and I ascended sixty-four floors of THEhotel at Mandalay Bay after gorging ourselves silly at Aburiya Raku. It was my last night in Sin City and I wanted a cheap thrill. At the top of THEhotel is miX, Michelin mogul Alain Ducasse’s […]

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review: for the view…

Chocolate Souffle miX, Las Vegas It was mostly for the view that Cowboy and I ascended sixty-four floors of THEhotel at Mandalay Bay after gorging ourselves silly at Aburiya Raku. It was my last night in Sin City and I wanted a cheap thrill. At the top of THEhotel is miX, Michelin mogul Alain Ducasse’s […]

Continue

review: wild goose chase…

Preserved Eggs Yung Kee, Hong Kong Roasted geese, bronze and juicy, hang in the big picture windows at Yung Kee. They’re the restaurant’s calling card. And by some accounts, they’re the only reason to visit this aging institution on Wellington Street in Central, Hong Kong. It’s certainly not for their hospitality, from what I could […]

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review: wild goose chase…

Preserved Eggs Yung Kee, Hong Kong Roasted geese, bronze and juicy, hang in the big picture windows at Yung Kee. They’re the restaurant’s calling card. And by some accounts, they’re the only reason to visit this aging institution on Wellington Street in Central, Hong Kong. It’s certainly not for their hospitality, from what I could […]

Continue

rumination 8: edible etymology…

Do you ever wonder why certain things have certain names?  I do. All the time. For example, why did Kansas City incorporate in Missouri? Wherefore Margaret morphed into Peggy? And in the name of all that’s innocent and pure, how did poor old Richard arrive at Dick?  Or did a string of really naughty Richards…?  […]

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rumination 8: edible etymology…

Do you ever wonder why certain things have certain names?  I do. All the time. For example, why did Kansas City incorporate in Missouri? Wherefore Margaret morphed into Peggy? And in the name of all that’s innocent and pure, how did poor old Richard arrive at Dick?  Or did a string of really naughty Richards…?  […]

Continue

review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

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review: in vino…

Veritas New York, New York Houston was supposed join us. It was, after all, her birthday dinner. But by the time Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid, Mr. RBI, and I were seated at Veritas, late on a rainy Friday (now, nearly a year ago), she was still circling the skies high above LaGuardia. Pity, it […]

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