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travel: until tonight becomes tomorrow…

~ When a volley of pink blossoms overtakes Gramercy Tavern and the big, picture-windows on Fifth Avenue begin blushing with brighter, bolder colors; when chefs get grabby for ramps and peas at the Union Square greenmarket, and the walls at casa mono finally swing open to seduce those turning the corner of 17th and Irving with the smell of pork and clams; […]

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travel: until tonight becomes tomorrow…

~ When a volley of pink blossoms overtakes Gramercy Tavern and the big, picture-windows on Fifth Avenue begin blushing with brighter, bolder colors; when chefs get grabby for ramps and peas at the Union Square greenmarket, and the walls at casa mono finally swing open to seduce those turning the corner of 17th and Irving with the smell of pork and clams; […]

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best dishes of 2013…

~ I literally sat in front of my computer and scrolled through every single dish I ate this year.  When I was finished, I did it again.  And then again. Eight years ago, I surveyed all of the dishes I had eaten in that year and compiled a list of my favorites, more for my […]

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best dishes of 2013…

~ I literally sat in front of my computer and scrolled through every single dish I ate this year.  When I was finished, I did it again.  And then again. Eight years ago, I surveyed all of the dishes I had eaten in that year and compiled a list of my favorites, more for my […]

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travel: the well-preserved patina of yesterday…

~ You know those restaurants you’ve been meaning to visit for ten years?  I have long lists of them.  And none is longer or harder to maintain than my New York list. New York City is a high-volume situation.  The sheer number of restaurants that open (and close) there each year, makes it one of […]

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travel: the well-preserved patina of yesterday…

~ You know those restaurants you’ve been meaning to visit for ten years?  I have long lists of them.  And none is longer or harder to maintain than my New York list. New York City is a high-volume situation.  The sheer number of restaurants that open (and close) there each year, makes it one of […]

Continue

travel: sense of urgency…

~ While walking through the administrative back-end of TKRG (Thomas Keller Restaurant Group), a village of offices in a compound, including The French Laundry, inter-connected by trellised walkways, Monica Bhambhani, the Director of Competition and Events for the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation, turned to chef Thomas Keller and said, wistfully: “Chef, I think I want […]

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travel: sense of urgency…

~ While walking through the administrative back-end of TKRG (Thomas Keller Restaurant Group), a village of offices in a compound, including The French Laundry, inter-connected by trellised walkways, Monica Bhambhani, the Director of Competition and Events for the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation, turned to chef Thomas Keller and said, wistfully: “Chef, I think I want […]

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review: ever after… (sant pau)

Good chefs tell stories. They convey a sense of time and place. Great chefs tell fairytales. They create time and place. Carme Ruscalleda is a great chef. And at her restaurant by the sea, a meal unfolds like a storybook, full of romance and wonder. It is a capsule, a world unto itself, Sant Pau […]

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review: ever after… (sant pau)

Good chefs tell stories. They convey a sense of time and place. Great chefs tell fairytales. They create time and place. Carme Ruscalleda is a great chef. And at her restaurant by the sea, a meal unfolds like a storybook, full of romance and wonder. It is a capsule, a world unto itself, Sant Pau […]

Continue

annotations: anthology…

Below, you’ll find the menu and the wines we had at elBullí.  Following the list of wines, you’ll find an annotated list of our dishes.  To see all of the photos from this meal in one set, CLICK HERE.  Otherwise, click on the course titles below to see the individual photos. *         […]

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annotations: anthology…

Below, you’ll find the menu and the wines we had at elBullí.  Following the list of wines, you’ll find an annotated list of our dishes.  To see all of the photos from this meal in one set, CLICK HERE.  Otherwise, click on the course titles below to see the individual photos. *         […]

Continue

annotations: fugue…

Below, you’ll find the menu and the wines we had at el bulli.  Following the list of wines, you’ll find an annotated list of our dishes.  To see all of the photos from this meal in one set, CLICK HERE.  Otherwise, click on the course titles below to see the individual photos.  One of my […]

Continue

annotations: fugue…

Below, you’ll find the menu and the wines we had at el bulli.  Following the list of wines, you’ll find an annotated list of our dishes.  To see all of the photos from this meal in one set, CLICK HERE.  Otherwise, click on the course titles below to see the individual photos.  One of my […]

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review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

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review: batman and robin…

The Menu wd~50, New York, New York There’s a culinary dynamic duo in Gotham. Their names are Wylie and Alex. Their ways are mysterious, their synergy, great. This stealthy team, comprised of an eccentric rebel maverick and his boyishly handsome sidekick, champions a culinary movement that the city has, for some inexplicable reason, largely resisted. […]

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review: it takes a village…

Looking up at the counter seating aldea, New York Recently, on the one-year anniversary of aldea’s opening, the chef and owner, George Mendes, tweeted, “Never thought 1 year ago that rice would be our signature dish.” Mendes’s “Arroz de Pato” – a paella stained with pimenton and saffron and enriched with duck stock – is […]

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review: it takes a village…

Looking up at the counter seating aldea, New York Recently, on the one-year anniversary of aldea’s opening, the chef and owner, George Mendes, tweeted, “Never thought 1 year ago that rice would be our signature dish.” Mendes’s “Arroz de Pato” – a paella stained with pimenton and saffron and enriched with duck stock – is […]

Continue

review: his peachness…

má pêche New York, New York I was supposed to have lunch at Alto. But I gotta tell you, the lunch menu at Alto looked really ho-hum. So I had lunch at má pêche instead. Besides, I wanted to see my friend Aaron, who’s a server there. If we’ve learned nothing else, it’s that David […]

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review: his peachness…

má pêche New York, New York I was supposed to have lunch at Alto. But I gotta tell you, the lunch menu at Alto looked really ho-hum. So I had lunch at má pêche instead. Besides, I wanted to see my friend Aaron, who’s a server there. If we’ve learned nothing else, it’s that David […]

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