review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

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review: dream team…

Garden Pea Eleven Madison Park, New York If ever there was a dream team to get behind, it’s Eleven Madison Park, right here, right now. This Danny Meyer gem is currently led by a triumvirate of unusually young savants blazing a hot trail. At the pass: Daniel Humm, Executive Chef In the cellar: John Ragan, […]

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review: galatwahs…

Oysters Rockefeller Galatoire’s, New Orleans, Louisiana As with the “The Quartah,” “oystahs,” and “Chartah Street,” the locals drop the “r” and call it “Galatwahs.” Founded in 1905 by French immigrant Jean Galatoire, over the last century, this unassuming restaurant on Bourbon Street has become New Orleans’s most beloved institution. This is where the city celebrates. […]

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review: galatwahs…

Oysters Rockefeller Galatoire’s, New Orleans, Louisiana As with the “The Quartah,” “oystahs,” and “Chartah Street,” the locals drop the “r” and call it “Galatwahs.” Founded in 1905 by French immigrant Jean Galatoire, over the last century, this unassuming restaurant on Bourbon Street has become New Orleans’s most beloved institution. This is where the city celebrates. […]

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review: extra schmaltzy…

Wild Shrimp & Grits Commander’s Palace New Orleans, Louisiana “He’ll play it extra schmaltzy,” said the leader of the jazz trio, nudging the trumpet player. Indeed, he did.  He played my song real nice like, smooth and sassy. There’s nothing like eating brunch in the Garden Room at Commander’s Palace with your friends while being […]

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review: extra schmaltzy…

Wild Shrimp & Grits Commander’s Palace New Orleans, Louisiana “He’ll play it extra schmaltzy,” said the leader of the jazz trio, nudging the trumpet player. Indeed, he did.  He played my song real nice like, smooth and sassy. There’s nothing like eating brunch in the Garden Room at Commander’s Palace with your friends while being […]

Continue

travel: laissez les bons temps rouler…

New Orleans, Louisiana The Saints beat the Cardinals. Bourbon Street was as colourful as I remembered it. We were spared a full day of forecasted rain. The po’boys were delicious. I finally got out for a few nice, long runs. And there was enough pork fat and coffee (and for some, alcohol) to keep even […]

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travel: laissez les bons temps rouler…

New Orleans, Louisiana The Saints beat the Cardinals. Bourbon Street was as colourful as I remembered it. We were spared a full day of forecasted rain. The po’boys were delicious. I finally got out for a few nice, long runs. And there was enough pork fat and coffee (and for some, alcohol) to keep even […]

Continue

best dishes of 2009…

Petales de Melon Confit Pierre, Hong Kong 2009 arrived on the heels of an incomparable eating tour of London, Paris, and beyond.  I can’t believe a year has gone by since I stuffed myself silly with macarons, cheese, bread, butter, and truffles. As memorable and impressive as my eating itinerary was last year, I can’t […]

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best dishes of 2009…

Petales de Melon Confit Pierre, Hong Kong 2009 arrived on the heels of an incomparable eating tour of London, Paris, and beyond.  I can’t believe a year has gone by since I stuffed myself silly with macarons, cheese, bread, butter, and truffles. As memorable and impressive as my eating itinerary was last year, I can’t […]

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dark and bitter, gooey and perfect…

u.e.’s Dark and Bitter Orange- Chocolate Birthday Cookies My close friends and family know by now that I make my own birthday treats. They also know that it takes a long time for me to come up with one. The problem is two-fold. First, I’m not motivated by sugar the way the rest of the […]

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dark and bitter, gooey and perfect…

u.e.’s Dark and Bitter Orange- Chocolate Birthday Cookies My close friends and family know by now that I make my own birthday treats. They also know that it takes a long time for me to come up with one. The problem is two-fold. First, I’m not motivated by sugar the way the rest of the […]

Continue

review: a frosty blossom..

Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]

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review: a frosty blossom..

Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]

Continue

review: nose to tail…

Roast Bone Marrow St. John Restaurant, London, U.K. Do you know how long I’ve been looking forward to eating at St. John? Perhaps more than any other restaurant I had planned to visit on my recent trip to Europe, this is the one I had most desired for and thought about. That should tell you […]

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review: nose to tail…

Roast Bone Marrow St. John Restaurant, London, U.K. Do you know how long I’ve been looking forward to eating at St. John? Perhaps more than any other restaurant I had planned to visit on my recent trip to Europe, this is the one I had most desired for and thought about. That should tell you […]

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best dishes of 2008…

Softball-Size White Truffle l’Ambroisie, Paris, France Gastronomic self one-upsmanship was not my intention when 2008 began. But it happened quite unexpectedly. For the past three years, I’ve recapped the top 25 dishes in a year-end review (click here for 2005, here for 2006, and here for 2007). Annually, I announce with certainty that my lucky […]

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best dishes of 2008…

Softball-Size White Truffle l’Ambroisie, Paris, France Gastronomic self one-upsmanship was not my intention when 2008 began. But it happened quite unexpectedly. For the past three years, I’ve recapped the top 25 dishes in a year-end review (click here for 2005, here for 2006, and here for 2007). Annually, I announce with certainty that my lucky […]

Continue

travel: crossing back over the puddle…

Lyon on Christmas Night I’ve been playing hooky. Jumping the Puddle, I recently struck out on my ugliest streak of gluttony to date. In fourteen days I pocketed 30 Michelin stars, cleared well over a hundred plates of food, consumed enough cheese to keep half of France employed, and sampled so many macarons that the […]

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travel: crossing back over the puddle…

Lyon on Christmas Night I’ve been playing hooky. Jumping the Puddle, I recently struck out on my ugliest streak of gluttony to date. In fourteen days I pocketed 30 Michelin stars, cleared well over a hundred plates of food, consumed enough cheese to keep half of France employed, and sampled so many macarons that the […]

Continue