eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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eleventh hour elevation?…

Macarons Eleven Madison Park, New York Ms. Toidy Toid and Toid emailed me yesterday with a link to this post on Eater. The culinary cyber-tabloid reports – based on tips from trusted sources – that Frank Bruni, the outgoing restaurant critic of the New York Times, has been recently spotted circling back to Eleven Madison […]

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travel: america’s left bank…

Do people on the West Coast live longer than those on the East Coast? In five days and over the course of seven meals (four of which were tasting menus), foie gras only showed up once.  Seafood outnumbered the hoofed and fowl.  And vegetation of countless shapes, sizes, and colours dominated every plate (I’m purposely […]

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travel: america’s left bank…

Do people on the West Coast live longer than those on the East Coast? In five days and over the course of seven meals (four of which were tasting menus), foie gras only showed up once.  Seafood outnumbered the hoofed and fowl.  And vegetation of countless shapes, sizes, and colours dominated every plate (I’m purposely […]

Continue

travel: another (wet) red carpet…

Corton, New York Under a nagging canopy of weepy clouds, this year’s James Beard weekend came with its usual parade of press, big wigs, and restaurant indulgences. My schedule was staggering: a five-day, seemingly non-stop roster of parties (including my friend’s Derby party. [Read: spoonbread, hot browns, and fantastic mint juleps.]), events, and meals. I […]

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travel: another (wet) red carpet…

Corton, New York Under a nagging canopy of weepy clouds, this year’s James Beard weekend came with its usual parade of press, big wigs, and restaurant indulgences. My schedule was staggering: a five-day, seemingly non-stop roster of parties (including my friend’s Derby party. [Read: spoonbread, hot browns, and fantastic mint juleps.]), events, and meals. I […]

Continue

review: of blood and wonder…

Amuse Bouche l’Ambassade de l’Ile There is a sinister sleekness to l’Ambassade de l’Ile, the recently opened outpost to l’Auberge de l’Ile, a 2 Michelin-star restaurant in Lyon, France. There are shadows and dark corners. There are distorted silhouettes cast by underlit fixtures. Angles and mirrors make you doubt your presence. And there are voyeuristic […]

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review: of blood and wonder…

Amuse Bouche l’Ambassade de l’Ile There is a sinister sleekness to l’Ambassade de l’Ile, the recently opened outpost to l’Auberge de l’Ile, a 2 Michelin-star restaurant in Lyon, France. There are shadows and dark corners. There are distorted silhouettes cast by underlit fixtures. Angles and mirrors make you doubt your presence. And there are voyeuristic […]

Continue

best dishes of 2008…

Softball-Size White Truffle l’Ambroisie, Paris, France Gastronomic self one-upsmanship was not my intention when 2008 began. But it happened quite unexpectedly. For the past three years, I’ve recapped the top 25 dishes in a year-end review (click here for 2005, here for 2006, and here for 2007). Annually, I announce with certainty that my lucky […]

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best dishes of 2008…

Softball-Size White Truffle l’Ambroisie, Paris, France Gastronomic self one-upsmanship was not my intention when 2008 began. But it happened quite unexpectedly. For the past three years, I’ve recapped the top 25 dishes in a year-end review (click here for 2005, here for 2006, and here for 2007). Annually, I announce with certainty that my lucky […]

Continue

foielapalooza…

Listen up all you foieheads out there: In conjunction with Lollapalooza 2008, Chef Graham Elliot Bowles will be celebrating the return of foie gras, legally, to Chicago with Foielapalooza, “a three-day foie gras and music extravaganza featuring a nightly changing foie preparation inspired by and served with music from that evening’s headlining act.” August 1: […]

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foielapalooza…

Listen up all you foieheads out there: In conjunction with Lollapalooza 2008, Chef Graham Elliot Bowles will be celebrating the return of foie gras, legally, to Chicago with Foielapalooza, “a three-day foie gras and music extravaganza featuring a nightly changing foie preparation inspired by and served with music from that evening’s headlining act.” August 1: […]

Continue

ridiculousness…

It must have been a slow news day because both Eater and Serious Eats picked up a comment I made on eGullet and ran with it. Although I hate to lend an iota of credence to this absurdity by wasting a single nanobyte on this topic, as the person who (inadvertently) initiated this party, and, […]

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ridiculousness…

It must have been a slow news day because both Eater and Serious Eats picked up a comment I made on eGullet and ran with it. Although I hate to lend an iota of credence to this absurdity by wasting a single nanobyte on this topic, as the person who (inadvertently) initiated this party, and, […]

Continue

james beard awards (2008)…

2008 James Beard Awards For the second year in a row, I had the honor of attending the James Beard Awards Gala and Reception in New York City.  As last year, the ceremony was held at the Avery Fisher Hall at the Lincoln Center. It was hot.  It was a zoo.  At times, the event was somewhat […]

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james beard awards (2008)…

2008 James Beard Awards For the second year in a row, I had the honor of attending the James Beard Awards Gala and Reception in New York City.  As last year, the ceremony was held at the Avery Fisher Hall at the Lincoln Center. It was hot.  It was a zoo.  At times, the event was somewhat […]

Continue

homecoming…

The American Restaurant How thrilled was I to read in the Kansas City Star that Debbie Gold will be returning to The American Restaurant, where she and her ex-husband, Michael Smith, won the James Beard Award for Best Chef Midwest (first for Kansas City)? Very. A few months ago, I lamented the closing of 40 […]

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homecoming…

The American Restaurant How thrilled was I to read in the Kansas City Star that Debbie Gold will be returning to The American Restaurant, where she and her ex-husband, Michael Smith, won the James Beard Award for Best Chef Midwest (first for Kansas City)? Very. A few months ago, I lamented the closing of 40 […]

Continue

izard…

Congratulations are in order for Stephanie Izard, the winner of Top Chef Season 4. I’m thrilled to see Izard returning to the restaurant scene after a brief hiatus. I had a wonderful dinner at her Chicago seafood-focused restaurant, Scylla, in 2006. A perfectly pan-fried filet of Tasmanian sea trout on a bed of black trumpet […]

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izard…

Congratulations are in order for Stephanie Izard, the winner of Top Chef Season 4. I’m thrilled to see Izard returning to the restaurant scene after a brief hiatus. I had a wonderful dinner at her Chicago seafood-focused restaurant, Scylla, in 2006. A perfectly pan-fried filet of Tasmanian sea trout on a bed of black trumpet […]

Continue