preview: twelve days of christmas…

~ In September, while I was in Napa, I spent a fair amount of time at Meadowood Napa Valley, a Relais & Châteaux resort in St. Helena, and home to the three Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood.  Although I have already written about my business in Yountville during that trip, I wanted to devote a separate post […]

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preview: twelve days of christmas…

~ In September, while I was in Napa, I spent a fair amount of time at Meadowood Napa Valley, a Relais & Châteaux resort in St. Helena, and home to the three Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood.  Although I have already written about my business in Yountville during that trip, I wanted to devote a separate post […]

Continue

travel: southern, by the grace of god…

If you’ve been to the South and didn’t leave smelling like bourbon and barbecue, then you had best go back and do it right. The scene of the last chapter of this most amazing year of travel and eating for me was set among the palmettos and live oaks of the Lowcountry. On 20,000-acres of […]

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travel: southern, by the grace of god…

If you’ve been to the South and didn’t leave smelling like bourbon and barbecue, then you had best go back and do it right. The scene of the last chapter of this most amazing year of travel and eating for me was set among the palmettos and live oaks of the Lowcountry. On 20,000-acres of […]

Continue

rumination 2: summer tropisms…

A couple of weeks ago, I ruminated over the current state of tasting menus.  Since, I’ve done a little more thinking and eating on the matter and I’ve churned out a few more, um, matters:

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rumination 2: summer tropisms…

A couple of weeks ago, I ruminated over the current state of tasting menus.  Since, I’ve done a little more thinking and eating on the matter and I’ve churned out a few more, um, matters:

Continue

review: the united colors of napa…

the SPRING FLOWER POT ubuntu, Napa, California Every now and then, a restaurant experience up-ends my life in the best possible way. My meal at ubuntu is the latest to join that short list of memorable meals. Undeniably, ubuntu is a vegetarian restaurant. People seem to make sure that’s the first thing you know about […]

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review: the united colors of napa…

the SPRING FLOWER POT ubuntu, Napa, California Every now and then, a restaurant experience up-ends my life in the best possible way. My meal at ubuntu is the latest to join that short list of memorable meals. Undeniably, ubuntu is a vegetarian restaurant. People seem to make sure that’s the first thing you know about […]

Continue

review: channeling pierre koffmann…

Pasture Raised Beef Duo niche (St. Louis, Missouri) I’m imposing a brief intermission on my eating tour of Europe and taking you to a more humble location, one closer to where I live. Gerard Craft opened niche, a small restaurant in St. Louis’s historic Benton Park neighborhood, in 2005. Embracing the farm, he’s turned the […]

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review: channeling pierre koffmann…

Pasture Raised Beef Duo niche (St. Louis, Missouri) I’m imposing a brief intermission on my eating tour of Europe and taking you to a more humble location, one closer to where I live. Gerard Craft opened niche, a small restaurant in St. Louis’s historic Benton Park neighborhood, in 2005. Embracing the farm, he’s turned the […]

Continue

wrinkles of spring…

Glories of Spring: Morels Despite a gossamer gloss of frost in the low-lying areas of my neighborhood this morning, an honest sign of Spring reassuringly appeared at my local farmer’s market today: MORELS!! Like ramps and truffles, morels are one of those highly sought-after treasures of a narrow-banded growing season that, despite their oft-inflated cost, […]

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wrinkles of spring…

Glories of Spring: Morels Despite a gossamer gloss of frost in the low-lying areas of my neighborhood this morning, an honest sign of Spring reassuringly appeared at my local farmer’s market today: MORELS!! Like ramps and truffles, morels are one of those highly sought-after treasures of a narrow-banded growing season that, despite their oft-inflated cost, […]

Continue

review: meanwhile, back at the ranch…

Blue Hill at Stone Barns ulterior epicure Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Photographs of this meal can be found on my flickr account.) Moments and reminders of how humans ought to live are, in our world, scarce. Having grown up on the prairie plains of the Midwest amidst fields of corn, wheat and cattle, there […]

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review: meanwhile, back at the ranch…

Blue Hill at Stone Barns ulterior epicure Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Photographs of this meal can be found on my flickr account.) Moments and reminders of how humans ought to live are, in our world, scarce. Having grown up on the prairie plains of the Midwest amidst fields of corn, wheat and cattle, there […]

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summer shades of pastel…

Cucumber Soup Originally uploaded by ulterior epicure. Sometimes, life is a bowl of cherries. Other times, it’s a garden overflowing with cucumbers. Why, why, why, I always ask myself August through September, do I plant so many cucumber plants? Pickling cucumbers, Burpless cucumbers, Asian cucumbers… Next year – no more cucumbers. If you’re head-long into […]

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summer shades of pastel…

Cucumber Soup Originally uploaded by ulterior epicure. Sometimes, life is a bowl of cherries. Other times, it’s a garden overflowing with cucumbers. Why, why, why, I always ask myself August through September, do I plant so many cucumber plants? Pickling cucumbers, Burpless cucumbers, Asian cucumbers… Next year – no more cucumbers. If you’re head-long into […]

Continue

the magical fuzzy factory…

Fuzzies I hate summer. I mean it. I dread the thought of the nasty season all year-round. Summer is the only season that manages to make me focus on its bad side rather than the good. But, inevitably, year after year, despite the hot, humid, nasty, sticky weather, I more than just muddle through. I […]

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the magical fuzzy factory…

Fuzzies I hate summer. I mean it. I dread the thought of the nasty season all year-round. Summer is the only season that manages to make me focus on its bad side rather than the good. But, inevitably, year after year, despite the hot, humid, nasty, sticky weather, I more than just muddle through. I […]

Continue

cornucopia…

Garlicky Corn Pudding I’m noticing a fundamental flaw to summer – you get spurts (maybe a couple of weeks) and windows where certain vegetables and fruits peak, during which time one tends to gorge one’s self on said vegetables and fruits. So, to mitigate over-dosing, I’ve had to come up with unique and varied ways of […]

Continue

cornucopia…

Garlicky Corn Pudding I’m noticing a fundamental flaw to summer – you get spurts (maybe a couple of weeks) and windows where certain vegetables and fruits peak, during which time one tends to gorge one’s self on said vegetables and fruits. So, to mitigate over-dosing, I’ve had to come up with unique and varied ways of […]

Continue