Tag: the united kingdom

12 days of christmas: lowe… (2018)

– In 2011, I met a young, clear-minded chef in Paris named James Lowe.  At the time, he was the head chef of St. John Bread & Wine in London. He would subsequently help found the Young Turks, a collaboration with fellow young guns Ben Greeno (who subsequently went on to open momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, […]

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12 days of christmas: lowe… (2018)

– In 2011, I met a young, clear-minded chef in Paris named James Lowe.  At the time, he was the head chef of St. John Bread & Wine in London. He would subsequently help found the Young Turks, a collaboration with fellow young guns Ben Greeno (who subsequently went on to open momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, […]

Continue

favorite dishes of 2016…

~ In 2015, I yawned. So, in 2016 I did something about it. I took my foot off the culinary gas pedal, tuned out the lists and rankings, and returned to the basics. I’ve never been a conformist, but, more than previous years, I focused on eating where I had found joy before.  And, when […]

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favorite dishes of 2016…

~ In 2015, I yawned. So, in 2016 I did something about it. I took my foot off the culinary gas pedal, tuned out the lists and rankings, and returned to the basics. I’ve never been a conformist, but, more than previous years, I focused on eating where I had found joy before.  And, when […]

Continue

review: reprise…

In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.*  There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]

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review: reprise…

In 1998, Pierre Koffmann sold his restaurant space on Royal Hospital Road to Gordon Ramsay and moved his three Michelin-starred la Tante Claire into the Berkeley Hotel.*  There he stayed until 2004, when he closed the restaurant and turned consultant. Nearly six years later, he reappeared in a tent on the roof of Selfridge’s in […]

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review: genesis…

I awoke to the gull’s cry against a pink sky, the ocean in my backyard. It was morning in Whistable, the second day. My ledger was blank, save a long seaside walk and lunch at The Sportsman.  And it was good.

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review: genesis…

I awoke to the gull’s cry against a pink sky, the ocean in my backyard. It was morning in Whistable, the second day. My ledger was blank, save a long seaside walk and lunch at The Sportsman.  And it was good.

Continue

review: return to salt marsh umami…

In those moments when we’re able to escape the undercurrent that sweeps us along blindly, we surface to discover the world, steady and still, peaceful and patient. There, we find a tavern, just this side of the sea wall, beyond which a windswept shelf of shells slides into the sea. This is the coast of […]

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review: return to salt marsh umami…

In those moments when we’re able to escape the undercurrent that sweeps us along blindly, we surface to discover the world, steady and still, peaceful and patient. There, we find a tavern, just this side of the sea wall, beyond which a windswept shelf of shells slides into the sea. This is the coast of […]

Continue

photo of the week 23: eating with celebrities…

When it comes to pop culture, I’m a dunce.  Yesterday, for example, I had to Google Lindsay Lohan and Megan Fox (don’t ask). If either of them were seated next to me at a restaurant, I’m sure I wouldn’t recognize them.  Even if I did, I’m not sure I would care. And so, it was […]

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photo of the week 23: eating with celebrities…

When it comes to pop culture, I’m a dunce.  Yesterday, for example, I had to Google Lindsay Lohan and Megan Fox (don’t ask). If either of them were seated next to me at a restaurant, I’m sure I wouldn’t recognize them.  Even if I did, I’m not sure I would care. And so, it was […]

Continue

review: a frosty blossom..

Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]

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review: a frosty blossom..

Cheese Gougeres Hibiscus (London, U.K.) Given the extraordinary amount of positive press and praise lavished on Claude Bosi and his restaurant, Hibiscus, I maintained surprisingly healthy expectations. I steered a wide berth around the chatter about whether Bosi would regain his second Michelin star, which was lost in the restaurant’s moved from Ludlow to an […]

Continue

review: nose to tail…

Roast Bone Marrow St. John Restaurant, London, U.K. Do you know how long I’ve been looking forward to eating at St. John? Perhaps more than any other restaurant I had planned to visit on my recent trip to Europe, this is the one I had most desired for and thought about. That should tell you […]

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review: nose to tail…

Roast Bone Marrow St. John Restaurant, London, U.K. Do you know how long I’ve been looking forward to eating at St. John? Perhaps more than any other restaurant I had planned to visit on my recent trip to Europe, this is the one I had most desired for and thought about. That should tell you […]

Continue