Tag: seafood

review: alone at the plancha… (rafa’s)

Some whelks, served cold with a side of garlicky vinaigrette. Espardenyes – those curiously striated cucumbers from the sea, tender with bounce and bite – langostas, gambas, chiparones, and a baby turbot not much larger than my hand, all grilled on the plancha. These are the simple pleasures of Rafa’s, an unassuming little eatery that has all but become […]

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review: alone at the plancha… (rafa’s)

Some whelks, served cold with a side of garlicky vinaigrette. Espardenyes – those curiously striated cucumbers from the sea, tender with bounce and bite – langostas, gambas, chiparones, and a baby turbot not much larger than my hand, all grilled on the plancha. These are the simple pleasures of Rafa’s, an unassuming little eatery that has all but become […]

Continue

review: crave…

By the time I landed in Barcelona at 11 a.m., I had already set foot in three countries that morning. I hadn’t slept a wink and was still working off the excesses from the night before. But, having just spent a week above the glacial line, I perked up to the balmy breeze on the […]

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review: crave…

By the time I landed in Barcelona at 11 a.m., I had already set foot in three countries that morning. I hadn’t slept a wink and was still working off the excesses from the night before. But, having just spent a week above the glacial line, I perked up to the balmy breeze on the […]

Continue

review: constant, steady, ever-faithful…

Salmon-Caviar Le Bernardin, New York I don’t take my birthday too seriously.  All I ask for is a very good meal (or a few) shared with good friends. For the past few years, I’ve made it a point to celebrate my birthday away from home.  I’ve had a strong bias for New York, which has […]

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review: constant, steady, ever-faithful…

Salmon-Caviar Le Bernardin, New York I don’t take my birthday too seriously.  All I ask for is a very good meal (or a few) shared with good friends. For the past few years, I’ve made it a point to celebrate my birthday away from home.  I’ve had a strong bias for New York, which has […]

Continue

review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: underwater kaleidoscope…

The John Dory New York, New York If I were to have twittered about my dinner at The John Dory in early May, I would have allotted my 140 letters thusly: “Top product. Pricey. Bold. Pricey. Italy-on-Thames meets aquatic Antique Roadshow. Pricey. Easy service. Pricey. Great music. Pricey. Neon.” Due to “storms in the New […]

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review: reprioritizing life…

Sea Urchin-Caviar, Le Bernardin Le Bernardin, a friend and I concluded, is one of those restaurants that, despite it’s acclaim and fame, one doesn’t necessarily crave or clamour for. It’s one of those restaurants that, when you are there, you wonder why you haven’t thought of it more fondly, and more often. A meal at […]

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review: reprioritizing life…

Sea Urchin-Caviar, Le Bernardin Le Bernardin, a friend and I concluded, is one of those restaurants that, despite it’s acclaim and fame, one doesn’t necessarily crave or clamour for. It’s one of those restaurants that, when you are there, you wonder why you haven’t thought of it more fondly, and more often. A meal at […]

Continue

review: bait and tackle…

Antipasto: “Porri Selvatici” “There are no baby eels,” our server solemnly announced. I was crestfallen. But, only for a second. Good, that meant that I could order the “Fegatini di Pescatrice,” monkfish liver, as an antipasto. Or, did I want the “Fritti” – crispy halibut cheek? But it’s ramp season, and there was an entire […]

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review: bait and tackle…

Antipasto: “Porri Selvatici” “There are no baby eels,” our server solemnly announced. I was crestfallen. But, only for a second. Good, that meant that I could order the “Fegatini di Pescatrice,” monkfish liver, as an antipasto. Or, did I want the “Fritti” – crispy halibut cheek? But it’s ramp season, and there was an entire […]

Continue