review: at the metropole… (joël robuchon monte-carlo)

– Is the moment of innovation more exciting than the period of enjoyment thereafter?  What happens when zeitgeist changes and context fades? Although I am old enough to have eaten at Jamin, Joël Robuchon’s first restaurant in Paris, I never did.  And, even if I had, as a toddler, I wouldn’t have appreciated the revolutionary […]

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review: at the metropole… (joël robuchon monte-carlo)

– Is the moment of innovation more exciting than the period of enjoyment thereafter?  What happens when zeitgeist changes and context fades? Although I am old enough to have eaten at Jamin, Joël Robuchon’s first restaurant in Paris, I never did.  And, even if I had, as a toddler, I wouldn’t have appreciated the revolutionary […]

Continue

review: gilt… (louis xv)

I had always thought that Louis XV was an odd name for Alain Ducasse’s temple in Monaco. And then I ate there. Louis XV wasn’t exactly the most popular monarch by the end of his reign, when he left his throne, gilded in excess at the expense of his subjects, to his successor, whose head […]

Continue

review: gilt… (louis xv)

I had always thought that Louis XV was an odd name for Alain Ducasse’s temple in Monaco. And then I ate there. Louis XV wasn’t exactly the most popular monarch by the end of his reign, when he left his throne, gilded in excess at the expense of his subjects, to his successor, whose head […]

Continue