12 days of christmas: atsumi… (2018)

– I’ve had two excellent meals at Clown Bar, and my enthusiasm for that restaurant has been recorded on this blog (here, and here, and here again). This beautifully preserved bistro is in the 11eme of Paris, just next to the Cirque d’Hiver.  I regret not having gone earlier, as I’m sure I missed many […]

Continue

12 days of christmas: atsumi… (2018)

– I’ve had two excellent meals at Clown Bar, and my enthusiasm for that restaurant has been recorded on this blog (here, and here, and here again). This beautifully preserved bistro is in the 11eme of Paris, just next to the Cirque d’Hiver.  I regret not having gone earlier, as I’m sure I missed many […]

Continue

photo of the week 27: you are what you eat…

Grass-fed, corn-fed: judge not by the content of the diet alone, but by the color and amount of the fat as well.  You can tell a lot about the animal’s life by the way its carcass looks and ages.  This, and more, I learned recently on a private tour of a local, independent meat locker. […]

Continue

photo of the week 27: you are what you eat…

Grass-fed, corn-fed: judge not by the content of the diet alone, but by the color and amount of the fat as well.  You can tell a lot about the animal’s life by the way its carcass looks and ages.  This, and more, I learned recently on a private tour of a local, independent meat locker. […]

Continue

review: riserva…

11-month dry-aged Porterhouse Carnevino, Las Vegas, Nevada Reports of an eight-month dry-aged steak seemed like a figment. I had to check it out. What: Carnevino (the logo, a cow kowtowing to a bottle, translates this Italian name rather effectively: “meat wine”) Who: Batali-Bastianich (and it looks very Batali-Bastianich) Where: Palazzo in Las Vegas I had […]

Continue

review: riserva…

11-month dry-aged Porterhouse Carnevino, Las Vegas, Nevada Reports of an eight-month dry-aged steak seemed like a figment. I had to check it out. What: Carnevino (the logo, a cow kowtowing to a bottle, translates this Italian name rather effectively: “meat wine”) Who: Batali-Bastianich (and it looks very Batali-Bastianich) Where: Palazzo in Las Vegas I had […]

Continue