review: quand je découvre un goût…

Le “Sandwich” Tiede á la Truffe Fraîche Michel Rostang, Paris, France Sometimes all a boy wants is something familiar, sturdy, and steadying. Michel Rostang fit the bill. Julien of Julot les Pinceaux was instrumental in my decision to add Michel Rostang to my roster of dinners in Paris. I had expressed a desire to have […]

Continue

review: quand je découvre un goût…

Le “Sandwich” Tiede á la Truffe Fraîche Michel Rostang, Paris, France Sometimes all a boy wants is something familiar, sturdy, and steadying. Michel Rostang fit the bill. Julien of Julot les Pinceaux was instrumental in my decision to add Michel Rostang to my roster of dinners in Paris. I had expressed a desire to have […]

Continue

review: stuck between mouse ears and thrill rides…

Porcini Mushroom Pappardelle Primo, Orlando, Florida What’s in Orlando? I’m stuck – car-less – at a conference on the (in)famous International Drive – the ark of chain restaurants: two of each kind. Where. To. Eat? Managing to escape for a couple of meals on my own, I took refuge at the Grand Lakes Resort. It’s […]

Continue

review: stuck between mouse ears and thrill rides…

Porcini Mushroom Pappardelle Primo, Orlando, Florida What’s in Orlando? I’m stuck – car-less – at a conference on the (in)famous International Drive – the ark of chain restaurants: two of each kind. Where. To. Eat? Managing to escape for a couple of meals on my own, I took refuge at the Grand Lakes Resort. It’s […]

Continue

review: you say pastilla…

Zahav Philadelphia, Pennsylvania “Ziseh kind, there is no such thing as Israeli food,” retorted my Jersey ma, a born-and-raised-on-the-LES-right-around-the-corner-from Russ and Daughters Jew. I wouldn’t dare argue the anthropology of Israeli food with her. I suppose she is right: Israeli food, by and large, is a hodge-podge of borrowed cuisines. Michael Solomonov, former chef of […]

Continue

review: you say pastilla…

Zahav Philadelphia, Pennsylvania “Ziseh kind, there is no such thing as Israeli food,” retorted my Jersey ma, a born-and-raised-on-the-LES-right-around-the-corner-from Russ and Daughters Jew. I wouldn’t dare argue the anthropology of Israeli food with her. I suppose she is right: Israeli food, by and large, is a hodge-podge of borrowed cuisines. Michael Solomonov, former chef of […]

Continue

review: subtle innovation…

Amada Philadelphia, Pennsylvania You know you’re going to have a good time at a restaurant when you’re greeted by a half-ton bronze pig. At the whiff of good food, my name becomes Achilles and a fine selection of cheeses, especially, goes straight for my heels. That’s how Jose Garces got me in a gluttonous bind […]

Continue

review: subtle innovation…

Amada Philadelphia, Pennsylvania You know you’re going to have a good time at a restaurant when you’re greeted by a half-ton bronze pig. At the whiff of good food, my name becomes Achilles and a fine selection of cheeses, especially, goes straight for my heels. That’s how Jose Garces got me in a gluttonous bind […]

Continue

review: that sugar bomb…

Ring Ring Le Bec Fin Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Four years ago, I couldn’t hear my food the music was so loud. Stiff, stilted, out-dated, and aloof, the food and service on my first visit to Georges Perrier’s vaunted Le Bec Fin in Philadelphia had me vowing never to return. But I’m a firm believer in second, […]

Continue

review: that sugar bomb…

Ring Ring Le Bec Fin Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Four years ago, I couldn’t hear my food the music was so loud. Stiff, stilted, out-dated, and aloof, the food and service on my first visit to Georges Perrier’s vaunted Le Bec Fin in Philadelphia had me vowing never to return. But I’m a firm believer in second, […]

Continue

travel: brotherly love…

Escalivada and White Sangria Amada Philadelphia, Pennsylvania I’m behind. I recently took a trip to Philadelphia in search of the perfect plate of pasta. I found it. But I also found a lot of other great things, like the perfect roast pork sandwich, and the perfect cheese and chocolate pairing, and many perfect scoops of […]

Continue

travel: brotherly love…

Escalivada and White Sangria Amada Philadelphia, Pennsylvania I’m behind. I recently took a trip to Philadelphia in search of the perfect plate of pasta. I found it. But I also found a lot of other great things, like the perfect roast pork sandwich, and the perfect cheese and chocolate pairing, and many perfect scoops of […]

Continue

james beard awards (2008)…

2008 James Beard Awards For the second year in a row, I had the honor of attending the James Beard Awards Gala and Reception in New York City.  As last year, the ceremony was held at the Avery Fisher Hall at the Lincoln Center. It was hot.  It was a zoo.  At times, the event was somewhat […]

Continue

james beard awards (2008)…

2008 James Beard Awards For the second year in a row, I had the honor of attending the James Beard Awards Gala and Reception in New York City.  As last year, the ceremony was held at the Avery Fisher Hall at the Lincoln Center. It was hot.  It was a zoo.  At times, the event was somewhat […]

Continue