Search: “coconut curry”

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you put the curry in the coconut…

Rarely does a pastry chef dazzle me more than the chef.  Coconut-Curry Sorbet I recently encountered an inspired sorbet. Not surprisingly, it was at Cru.  (Read my review here).  There, I enjoyed Pastry Chef Tiffany MacIsaac’s wonderful sampling of ice creams.  Out sailed an enameled barge bearing five gorgeous and perfectly round scoops of cold creamy […]

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you put the curry in the coconut…

Rarely does a pastry chef dazzle me more than the chef.  Coconut-Curry Sorbet I recently encountered an inspired sorbet. Not surprisingly, it was at Cru.  (Read my review here).  There, I enjoyed Pastry Chef Tiffany MacIsaac’s wonderful sampling of ice creams.  Out sailed an enameled barge bearing five gorgeous and perfectly round scoops of cold creamy […]

Continue

12 days of christmas: lee… (2019)

– On the recommendation of a friend during a three-day layover in Singapore, I had the pleasure of eating at Candlenut.  That was the summer of 2016, just before the Michelin Guide arrived in Singapore, where it would award chef Malcolm Lee and his Peranakan cooking a worthy star later that year. Lee brought his […]

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12 days of christmas: lee… (2019)

– On the recommendation of a friend during a three-day layover in Singapore, I had the pleasure of eating at Candlenut.  That was the summer of 2016, just before the Michelin Guide arrived in Singapore, where it would award chef Malcolm Lee and his Peranakan cooking a worthy star later that year. Lee brought his […]

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travel: more dots to connect…

~ New York in May.  It’s always a feast. I’ve attended the James Beard Awards, which is held annually the first Monday of the month, for the past six years. For the past two, I’ve had the privilege of photographing the event for All-Clad Metalcrafters (a sponsor), which was the primary purpose of my latest […]

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travel: more dots to connect…

~ New York in May.  It’s always a feast. I’ve attended the James Beard Awards, which is held annually the first Monday of the month, for the past six years. For the past two, I’ve had the privilege of photographing the event for All-Clad Metalcrafters (a sponsor), which was the primary purpose of my latest […]

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review: retrospective… (alinea)

Nashville, Tennessee, 2004.  A ruddy-cheeked cherub came out of the kitchen after dinner to say hello. He was just a kid.  I was just a kid. We both loved food. He cooked. I ate.  We started talking. Though our conversation drifted from here to there, it moored mostly around a new restaurant that was opening […]

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review: retrospective… (alinea)

Nashville, Tennessee, 2004.  A ruddy-cheeked cherub came out of the kitchen after dinner to say hello. He was just a kid.  I was just a kid. We both loved food. He cooked. I ate.  We started talking. Though our conversation drifted from here to there, it moored mostly around a new restaurant that was opening […]

Continue

annotations: retrospective…

1st Courses: Lemon: The first in a triptych of “edible cocktails,” this one wasn’t really my kind of cocktail.  It was cold and frozen (with some kind of a “mastic” on top – I think grapefruit).  Bitter, sour, fruity.  It was refreshing. Again, not my kind of cocktail. Apple: Essentially, a Jack Rose. There was […]

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annotations: retrospective…

1st Courses: Lemon: The first in a triptych of “edible cocktails,” this one wasn’t really my kind of cocktail.  It was cold and frozen (with some kind of a “mastic” on top – I think grapefruit).  Bitter, sour, fruity.  It was refreshing. Again, not my kind of cocktail. Apple: Essentially, a Jack Rose. There was […]

Continue

best dishes of 2008…

Softball-Size White Truffle l’Ambroisie, Paris, France Gastronomic self one-upsmanship was not my intention when 2008 began. But it happened quite unexpectedly. For the past three years, I’ve recapped the top 25 dishes in a year-end review (click here for 2005, here for 2006, and here for 2007). Annually, I announce with certainty that my lucky […]

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best dishes of 2008…

Softball-Size White Truffle l’Ambroisie, Paris, France Gastronomic self one-upsmanship was not my intention when 2008 began. But it happened quite unexpectedly. For the past three years, I’ve recapped the top 25 dishes in a year-end review (click here for 2005, here for 2006, and here for 2007). Annually, I announce with certainty that my lucky […]

Continue

review: a trolley like no other…

Picholine, New York Like many a personality on the Upper West Side, Picholine got a facelift. The last time I was in the restaurant, Spring of 2006, I was there on a non-eating mission. The food might have been fantastic, but the oddly-configured restaurant itself struck me as terribly tired, somewhat outdated, and immensely frumpy. […]

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review: a trolley like no other…

Picholine, New York Like many a personality on the Upper West Side, Picholine got a facelift. The last time I was in the restaurant, Spring of 2006, I was there on a non-eating mission. The food might have been fantastic, but the oddly-configured restaurant itself struck me as terribly tired, somewhat outdated, and immensely frumpy. […]

Continue

best dishes of 2007…

2007 saw a noticeable change in food trends. Our nation’s culinary drivers began to consciously steer us away from fine dining and toward casual fare. This de-emphasis on luxury in favor of the humble meant that caviar and foie gras became out-paced by brussels sprouts and short ribs; the fascination and wonder with molecular gastronomy […]

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best dishes of 2007…

2007 saw a noticeable change in food trends. Our nation’s culinary drivers began to consciously steer us away from fine dining and toward casual fare. This de-emphasis on luxury in favor of the humble meant that caviar and foie gras became out-paced by brussels sprouts and short ribs; the fascination and wonder with molecular gastronomy […]

Continue

review: haute comfort food in the alps

Obauer (one visit, September 2005) Tucked away in the sleepy village of Werfen about an hour’s train ride from Salzburg, at the foot of the Austrian Alps, is the delightfully refined restaurant and hotel, Obauer. Run by brothers Karl and Rudolf, this ten-roomed cottage on the main street of Werfen boasts a Michelin 2 star […]

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review: haute comfort food in the alps

Obauer (one visit, September 2005) Tucked away in the sleepy village of Werfen about an hour’s train ride from Salzburg, at the foot of the Austrian Alps, is the delightfully refined restaurant and hotel, Obauer. Run by brothers Karl and Rudolf, this ten-roomed cottage on the main street of Werfen boasts a Michelin 2 star […]

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12 days: on the eighth day of christmas: achatz… (2014)

~ Of this year’s twelve dinners, I was most anxious about the eighth one: the night that Grant Achatz cooked. Early in alinea’s life, I was one of the very few, if not alone, in my criticism of that restaurant – or, more accurately, that style of dining.  Now, eight years and four meals at alinea later, the […]

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12 days: on the eighth day of christmas: achatz… (2014)

~ Of this year’s twelve dinners, I was most anxious about the eighth one: the night that Grant Achatz cooked. Early in alinea’s life, I was one of the very few, if not alone, in my criticism of that restaurant – or, more accurately, that style of dining.  Now, eight years and four meals at alinea later, the […]

Continue