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I first heard of Brady Williams when he was hired to become the head chef at Canlis in spring of 2015. And since then, he has catapulted into the national spotlight as a rising star (twice a finalist in the Rising Star category for the James Beard Foundation Awards, and winning the James Beard Award for Best Chef Northwest in 2019).
Williams was the eighth chef to cook with chef Christopher Kostow at the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood.
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Dinner started with a bracingly tart canapé of apple juice (I think it was slightly thickened with pectin) with small dices of crunchy kohlrabi. It was bright start to dinner from Canlis pastry chef Crystal Chiu.
My favorite course from Williams was a porridge of Dungeness crab rice, which came sandwiched between two other seafood courses – an alabaster fist of cod pané from Kostow, served with a rich buttermilk and caviar sauce; and spiny lobster, which Williams served with fermented turnip and kani miso.
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I really liked Kostow’s duck course. The breast meat was sliced and served with cherries and wheat berries. On the side, a warm cup of “duck tea, which was poured out of beautiful, vintage decanters. It was straightforward and comforting.
For dessert, Chiu presented a rather familiar couple – apples and cheddar – in new form. The two were set on brioche, and topped with wafer-thin sheet of toasted meringue.
From The Restaurant at Meadowood, a lovely parsnip tart, with its round, mellow sweetness providing an excellent background on which to showcase the aroma of freshly shaved white truffles.
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This is the menu from Day 8 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Brady Williams (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):
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Canapés
Buckwheat
Rojo chiquito bean, green tea.
(Williams)
Buckwheat
Sea lettuce, marionberry.
(Williams)
Kohlrabi
Apple.
(Williams)
Sturgeon
Katsuobushi.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)
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1st Course
Daikon
Benne seed oil, pear.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)
2nd Course
Carrot
Chorizo, geoduck.
(Williams)
3rd Course
Cod
Buttermilk, caviar.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)
4th Course
Dungeness
Crab rice.
(Williams)
5th Course
Spiny Lobster
Fermented turnip, kani miso.
(Williams)
6th Course
Duck Tea
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)
7th Course
Duck
Cherry, celery, wheat berries.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)
8th Course
Pork Collar
Squid beans.
(Williams)
9th Course
Cheddar
Apple, brioche.
(Williams)
10th Course
Parsnip Tart
White truffle.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)
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Keller “Feuervogel,” Silvaner, 2015
Pichler, Riesling, 2016
Tablas Creek Vineyard, Esprit Blanc, 2017
Abbaye de Morgeot, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, 2017
Tatomer, Duvarita, Pinot Noir, 2013
La Jota Vineyard Co., Heritage Release, 2006
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Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).
2012
Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)
2013
Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)
2014
Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)
2015
Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)
2017
Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)
2018
Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)
2019
Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
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Photos: Williams, Daniel Kim, and Zach Yoder in the garden; tart apple with kohlrabi by pastry chef Crystal Chiu of Canlis; Williams plating spiny lobster; cod with buttermilk and caviar by TRAM; duck tea by TRAM; cod with buttermilk by TRAM; Tyler Bentley torching meringue for cheddar and apple dessert; wine pairings, Brady Williams, Celeste Peralez, Crystal Chiu, and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Celest Peralez, Brady Williams, and Crystal Chiu.
