Month: January 2012

review: neue deutsch… (aqua)

– In September of last year, I was invited on an eating junket, along with a few others, to tour Germany’s top tables. The invitation came from my friend Ingo Scheuermann, author of of the blog High End Food and co-author of “bau.stil,” Christian Bau’s new cookbook, who organized this trip with the German Board […]

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review: neue deutsch… (aqua)

– In September of last year, I was invited on an eating junket, along with a few others, to tour Germany’s top tables. The invitation came from my friend Ingo Scheuermann, author of of the blog High End Food and co-author of “bau.stil,” Christian Bau’s new cookbook, who organized this trip with the German Board […]

Continue

review: baby back… (pappy’s bbq)

~ There aren’t many on my list of musts.  But, this past weekend, Pappy’s Smokehouse in St. Louis earned a line on it. Gerard Craft, chef-owner of niche (and the attendant Taste and Brasserie), had commended Mike Emerson’s barbecue too many times to be ignored. So, to the smokehouse we went for lunch. We arrived […]

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review: baby back… (pappy’s bbq)

~ There aren’t many on my list of musts.  But, this past weekend, Pappy’s Smokehouse in St. Louis earned a line on it. Gerard Craft, chef-owner of niche (and the attendant Taste and Brasserie), had commended Mike Emerson’s barbecue too many times to be ignored. So, to the smokehouse we went for lunch. We arrived […]

Continue

travel: meet me in st. louis…

~ Although I’ve spent countless hours at Lambert Field (I’ve flown through it more than any other airport in the world, by far) my time in St. Louis has been slight, a half-dozen one-nighters over the past three decades: school field trips, business trips, and a quick eating trip three years ago. So, when Gerard […]

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travel: meet me in st. louis…

~ Although I’ve spent countless hours at Lambert Field (I’ve flown through it more than any other airport in the world, by far) my time in St. Louis has been slight, a half-dozen one-nighters over the past three decades: school field trips, business trips, and a quick eating trip three years ago. So, when Gerard […]

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rumination 20: spoof…

RANDY: There are certain rules that one must abide by in order to successfully survive a horror movie. For instance: One: You can never have sex. The minute you get a little nookie-you’re as good as gone. Sex always equals death. Two: Never drink or do drugs. The sin factor. It’s an extension of number […]

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rumination 20: spoof…

RANDY: There are certain rules that one must abide by in order to successfully survive a horror movie. For instance: One: You can never have sex. The minute you get a little nookie-you’re as good as gone. Sex always equals death. Two: Never drink or do drugs. The sin factor. It’s an extension of number […]

Continue

review: a series of pauses… (kajitsu)

– Situated somewhere in the middle of my three-week, million-calorie binge in New York last year was kajitsu, a meditative pause in an otherwise reckless episode of indulgence. Tucked below street level in the East Village, kajitsu is quiet and clean, not unlike the food it serves, a series of vignettes in kaiseki form. Here, […]

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review: a series of pauses… (kajitsu)

– Situated somewhere in the middle of my three-week, million-calorie binge in New York last year was kajitsu, a meditative pause in an otherwise reckless episode of indulgence. Tucked below street level in the East Village, kajitsu is quiet and clean, not unlike the food it serves, a series of vignettes in kaiseki form. Here, […]

Continue

photo of the week 37: chop…

This series was an utter failure last year. I will try to post more regularly this year. I recently launched my own photography website (www.bonjwing.com).  It will not, as some readers have inquired, replace my Flickr account.  Instead, it will serve as a gallery of my professional work, a sampling rather than a library. Since […]

Continue

photo of the week 37: chop…

This series was an utter failure last year. I will try to post more regularly this year. I recently launched my own photography website (www.bonjwing.com).  It will not, as some readers have inquired, replace my Flickr account.  Instead, it will serve as a gallery of my professional work, a sampling rather than a library. Since […]

Continue

travel: what i did for food…

– I was 27, and I was crazy. Two years of imprisonment in the ivy halls of law school begged for an adventure. So off to the Netherlands I went for a change of scene, under the pretense of studying law in the Dutchmen’s ivy halls. Don’t tell anyone, but I was really there to […]

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travel: what i did for food…

– I was 27, and I was crazy. Two years of imprisonment in the ivy halls of law school begged for an adventure. So off to the Netherlands I went for a change of scene, under the pretense of studying law in the Dutchmen’s ivy halls. Don’t tell anyone, but I was really there to […]

Continue

rumination 19: xian…

Now that the whole world knows what umami is (that’s a Japanese word), I’d like to talk about xian (that’s a Chinese word, not to be confused with xian of a different tone, which means salty, or Xi’an, the ancient capital of China). I’m surprised no one has mentioned it yet. What is it? Well, it’s basically the […]

Continue

rumination 19: xian…

Now that the whole world knows what umami is (that’s a Japanese word), I’d like to talk about xian (that’s a Chinese word, not to be confused with xian of a different tone, which means salty, or Xi’an, the ancient capital of China). I’m surprised no one has mentioned it yet. What is it? Well, it’s basically the […]

Continue

travel: kansas city… (2012)

Two years ago, I offered my opinion on eating in Kansas City.  It’s time I update that post. But this time, I’m not just going to throw you a list of my favorite places to eat. This time, I’m going slightly deeper than that. Recently, Saveur Magazine’s editor in chief, James Oseland, put Kansas City […]

Continue

travel: kansas city… (2012)

Two years ago, I offered my opinion on eating in Kansas City.  It’s time I update that post. But this time, I’m not just going to throw you a list of my favorite places to eat. This time, I’m going slightly deeper than that. Recently, Saveur Magazine’s editor in chief, James Oseland, put Kansas City […]

Continue

rumination 18: bibendum in america…

I’m going to say this upfront: I’m no expert on the Michelin guides. But I have used them for years, referring to them for dining advice in dozens of countries across three continents.  And, in my limited experience, I’ve found them generally reliable in Europe (though it varies with each country), less so in the […]

Continue

rumination 18: bibendum in america…

I’m going to say this upfront: I’m no expert on the Michelin guides. But I have used them for years, referring to them for dining advice in dozens of countries across three continents.  And, in my limited experience, I’ve found them generally reliable in Europe (though it varies with each country), less so in the […]

Continue