There was a French equivalent of Top Chef that I saw over there a few years ago, a svelte 4-episode French version “Plus Près des Etoiles” (Closer to the Stars) which follows 7 of the country’s highest rated apprentices as they compete, without flabby saddlebag drama, for a 6 month internship in judge Joël Robuchon’s restaurants… possibly more substantial to a culinary career than a lifetime supply of disposable tupperwares.

The televised distraction’s host station suffers in terms of limited budget, audience (4am. Sunday time slot proceeded by “Riptide” reruns) no cultured tension or silly Whole Foods sourced reinvent-the-bagel-sandwich-with-traditional-Ashkenazi-condiments challenges. Its sensational liabilities are compensated by the presence of elite chefs. Cameras focus on technique and horsepower rather than producer prodded squabbles and horse shit. 3 final candidates must create (from identical mystery boxes) as well as write a methodical savory and sweet recipe with artisan products and are coached by starred stove heavyweights: 4th Generation chef Marc Haeberlin, Bruce Willisish Thierry Marx and creepy Raider of the Lost Arkish Marc Veyrat.

I’ll disagree with the telegraphing of the final pick though. Gail defended the overcooked cake saying the flavors were there and it could have been a great dish. I think that Michael immediately stated it was overcooked helped his case as well. I think the reason he was picked over Bryan Voltaggio was for the same reason that more and more people are finding The French Laundry lacking. Sure there might be flawless execution, but flawless execution of something that doesn’t make an impact on you is not worth much. I think they made the right choice with Michael and I thought that was who they were going to pick based on the edited footage.

But there are a lot of well-rounded chefs out there. In my experience, the chefs who have a unique style/perspective and are able to express it well are the ones that I fall in love with more (for their food, of course). Michael Voltaggio seemed to have a style that seemed to most personalized (I’m avoiding the term unique because a few other chefs, including Bryan Voltaggio and Jennifer Carroll also seemed to have their own, identifiable styles). They did a good job of telling a story (I know this claim is utterly unfounded since I clearly haven’t eaten any of the dishes that the cheftestants cooked). His dishes weren’t always a success, but it seemed like he was the one that, when he hit the mark, produced the highest highs. And he seemed to do so on an impressively consistent basis. As one who eats out a lot, chefs like M. Voltaggio excite me because their food has great potential. Often, the few disappointments are well-worth the adventure.

Again, there were three fantastic candidates. I think any of them could have taken the title. I’d be pleased as punch to find myself eating at Volt, Bazaar (or wherever M. Voltaggio lands), and Woodfire Grill.