Comments on: review: disney on the saône…

By: Will J

Will J — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 20:47:44 +0000

UE – thank you for the correction, it is indeed Ma Gastronomie. Ditto, new edition.

By: ulterior epicure

ulterior epicure — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 04:20:22 +0000

@ Mikael: Indeed, some fish are better left for a few days than to eat straight from the net. Textures and flavors change. I look forward to your posts.

@ Will J: To clarify, you do mean the new “Ma Gastronomie” cookbook, right? I have a great appreciation of classic dishes. Alas, my time in Lyon has been very limited. I haven’t had a chance to tour the bouchons Lyonnaise. I bet Mikael has, though.

By: Will J

Will J — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 02:10:07 +0000

That “Filet de Sole” was actually in Monsieur Fernand Point’s book, La Pyramide. If you have a chance to check out the recently published version (by Rookery Press), you will see on p.131 the original image of this dish as it was then (circa 1940s). I suspect the recipe hasn’t change since? Great write up and I’m glad to hear you find an appreciation for classics such as this one. I’m wondering if you gotten a chance to try the original bouchons while you were in the area? Most are closed for holidays but they are some that are open. Just want to know what your thoughts on these pedestrians eateries.

By: Mikael

Mikael — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 14:49:53 +0000

Interesting issues you bring up. I am writing on a blog post about buying fish, how fresh or “aged” different kind of fish should be, and also about the regulations that requires that fish, destined to be served raw, first is frozen. There are a lot of considerations to make. Some fish are safest to eat raw after it has been frozen, some fish doesn’t travel, some fish aren’t supposed to be frozen, some fish is simply not particularly good too fresh and so on.

I would agree that lobster in European restaurants often is a bit tough. Finding lobster of great quality outside the coastal areas is not an easy task. I have seen European lobsters that have looked like they have spent a much longer time in tanks than most of the American lobsters sold in Europe. How to pick a lobster is a good topic for a post too.

By: ulterior epicure

ulterior epicure — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 12:43:38 +0000

@ Mikael: I always learn something new from you. Of course, I haven’t eaten in Lyon nearly as frequently as you, no doubt, have.

Of course, I’m not surprised you’d prefer European lobsters. And I’m sure you know how to cook them correctly too. My preference for Maine lobsters is not necessarily for the flavor, rather the texture. Every Breton lobster I’ve had has been tough. Perhaps this is a cultural difference (one, which I haven’t sorted out), but I prefer my lobster meat less well done than the lobster meat I’ve had in Europe.

As for freshness, I would agree that getting lobsters from European waters would be much more sensible for the French chefs than shipping them in from the U.S. But, by the same turn of the coin, should I eschew sushi shippped from Japan? Unlike fish, lobsters can be kept alive longer, no?

By: Mikael

Mikael — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 08:07:53 +0000

I wonder why in particular restaurants in Lyon have a preference for American lobster. Perhaps Bocuse gets a kickback from the importer. I had American lobster at la Mere Brazier recently. Actually, I have had them in numerous multi-starred restaurants all over Europe. At least Bocuse is not ashamed of it. Others don’t want to talk about it.

It may come as no surprise that I disagree that they are better than European ones. Try sauces made from shells from a European one and an American one side by side, if you are not convinced by a test of the meat side by side. But putting aside the argument which is best, why would you fly a lobster around the world when the quality of the lobster is bound to deteriorate (stress, autodigestion due to starvation (yeah they say they feed them but I don’t buy that) to name a few reasons) unless the reason was cost savings. The price for American lobster flown to Europe is usually less than half that of normal quality European lobster. It is a sad development that the provenance or the quality of many ingredients has become less important.

Btw, I put up a picture of the toro-spread on the blog. Thanks for the idea!