Month: August 2008

review: the perfect plate of pasta…

Vetri, Philadelphia Is there anything more pleasing than a perfect plate of pasta? Perhaps. But not much. I can pinpoint the day and hour of my last plate of perfect pasta. It was corzetti, and it was more of a taste, rather than a plate. I ate this standing up, negotiating armfuls of *stuff* – […]

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review: the perfect plate of pasta…

Vetri, Philadelphia Is there anything more pleasing than a perfect plate of pasta? Perhaps. But not much. I can pinpoint the day and hour of my last plate of perfect pasta. It was corzetti, and it was more of a taste, rather than a plate. I ate this standing up, negotiating armfuls of *stuff* – […]

Continue

ge 2.0…

“Sturgeon” Avenues under Graham Elliot Bowles Like the catwalks of Paris and Milan, menu previews are a chance for culinary designers to strut their wares and set their trends each season. As we look toward autumn, when meats get darker, vegetables grow starchier, sauces thicker and flavors bolder, chefs are dressing and lining up their […]

Continue

ge 2.0…

“Sturgeon” Avenues under Graham Elliot Bowles Like the catwalks of Paris and Milan, menu previews are a chance for culinary designers to strut their wares and set their trends each season. As we look toward autumn, when meats get darker, vegetables grow starchier, sauces thicker and flavors bolder, chefs are dressing and lining up their […]

Continue

gelato boy gone wild…

Capogiro Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Capogiro, a gelateria in Philadelphia, needs to have an accompanying 12-step recovery program. Well, actually, that would be stupid of them. They make money off of addicts like me. Ever since I took my first taste of Capogiro’s ethereally smooth and almost froth-like gelato, I was hooked. At first, it was innocent, […]

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gelato boy gone wild…

Capogiro Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Capogiro, a gelateria in Philadelphia, needs to have an accompanying 12-step recovery program. Well, actually, that would be stupid of them. They make money off of addicts like me. Ever since I took my first taste of Capogiro’s ethereally smooth and almost froth-like gelato, I was hooked. At first, it was innocent, […]

Continue

review: big as texas…

Fearing’s at the Ritz Carlton Dallas, Texas Dean Fearing has been called the “Father of Southwestern Cuisine” and garnered much praise and attention during his 20-year tenure as the chef of the fabled (Rosewood) Mansion on Turtle Creek, including being awarded the James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 1994. In August of last […]

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review: big as texas…

Fearing’s at the Ritz Carlton Dallas, Texas Dean Fearing has been called the “Father of Southwestern Cuisine” and garnered much praise and attention during his 20-year tenure as the chef of the fabled (Rosewood) Mansion on Turtle Creek, including being awarded the James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 1994. In August of last […]

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review: beat of a different drum…

Wild Sockeye Salmon Lola’s Tasting Room Lola’s website certainly does not comport with the level of the food being served at the restaurant. Neither does its service – at least, not in the Tasting Room where I recently had dinner with a good friend. But neither website nor service really stood in the way of […]

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review: beat of a different drum…

Wild Sockeye Salmon Lola’s Tasting Room Lola’s website certainly does not comport with the level of the food being served at the restaurant. Neither does its service – at least, not in the Tasting Room where I recently had dinner with a good friend. But neither website nor service really stood in the way of […]

Continue

primates on carbs…

Doughmonkey Dallas, Texas There’s a little store in Dallas tucked amongst the eclectic mix of retail and restaurants in Snider Plaza that I was told not to miss on my recent trip down to Texas. It’s called Doughmonkey and its playful mascot, which resembles a Paul Frank creation more than a confection, belies its rather […]

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primates on carbs…

Doughmonkey Dallas, Texas There’s a little store in Dallas tucked amongst the eclectic mix of retail and restaurants in Snider Plaza that I was told not to miss on my recent trip down to Texas. It’s called Doughmonkey and its playful mascot, which resembles a Paul Frank creation more than a confection, belies its rather […]

Continue

review: moving gotham…

Lamb Tartar L20, Chicago The producers of “The Dark Knight” aren’t the only ones moving Gotham to Chicago. Rich Melman has also done it with L20, Laurent Gras’s new “modern seafood” restaurant in Chicago’s tony Lincoln Park neighborhood where I recently had a memorable meal. It’s undoubtedly one of the most important restaurant openings to […]

Continue

review: moving gotham…

Lamb Tartar L20, Chicago The producers of “The Dark Knight” aren’t the only ones moving Gotham to Chicago. Rich Melman has also done it with L20, Laurent Gras’s new “modern seafood” restaurant in Chicago’s tony Lincoln Park neighborhood where I recently had a memorable meal. It’s undoubtedly one of the most important restaurant openings to […]

Continue